ParadiseMJ

This isn't MY picture...but I thought it was a good one.

That was the route I was going, but I read on the can that it shouldn't be used on electrical parts. Which was news to me...as I've used it on pretty much everything for years. Thanks though, that's what I'll do.

I scored a full engine bay wiring harness, from ECU to TCU, all sensors, connectors, injectors, all in great shape for $25 at the yard. The donor vehicle was wrecked and pretty much smashed from the front doors back so everything on it was in great shape...EXCEPT...everything on the donor vehicle was very oily, greasy and dirty. So before I get it all wrapped up, back in wiring loom and put it in to my truck I want to get it as clean as possible . I FEEL like I should soak it overnight in some cleaning solution but don't really thing that's how wiring should be handled. Other than the obvious, electronics cleaner, etc. does anyone have any sure fire method to get greasy wiring cleaned up??

Just to expound on this a bit for the OP The "roll-over" valves have plastic nipples on them that deteriorate over time, exposure to fuel etc. If you're not required by law to keep them operable it's likely that the nipple can fall off, the hose can fall off, and gas fumes can randomly escape. This was the case with my tank. The previous owner had started to revamp the truck, dropped the tank, removed the bed, ripped out all the vac lines and wiring, exhaust, interior, flares, seat...then he got tired of it. He put the bed back on (without bolting it on) bolted the tank back up and threw all the extra parts and pieces into the bed of the truck. Then sold it to me :fs2: I had two quarter sized hole in the top of my tank where the valves were NOT and I chased "strong" fuel smell on the thing for a couple months before I realized the valves were not there. MY suggestion would be to keep the can and make sure the rubber lines and the roll-over valves are in place and not leaking (but that's JUST a suggestion). :smart:

Where do you live, and what do your state smog/emissions/inspection laws specify??

Actually, our ACE hardware has all that stuff.;..

Dang, that looks simple enough even for me. Hardware store, threaded rod (or is that 2 bolts welded?), a couple of ball/johnny joint type swivels and some nylon washers with nuts. Right??

Normally, I'd say just that..."snake oil". But in this case since you came so close to passing CO and passed everything else with room to spare, I'd do it. CO is indicative of unburned fuel. Check your plugs, drive it in hot.

It's not the height...it's the width.

Somehow the font on my machine went tiny on me...I had to bump it up just so I could read it. I didn't see the finished product :doh: I have it set to "Senior Citizen"

Just to re-report on these shocks... I LOVE them. The coil feature really assists my backside hold up when I have a load of firewood or potatoes back there. I have a long 2" AAL back there, and longer shackles which, when I had the Ultras on there was fine, until I loaded 6 or 8 80# bags of concrete and 100 or so fence boards. Then the rear would sag. Now I can fill the bed (SWB) with oak firewood and it doesn't. I don't have to worry about the tank or any other interference. They are not big ol' fat shocks and the ride is firm and smooth(ish). Since I don't really do much flexing, drooping or crawling it seems like the perfect shock for me.

I already did that...*hic* :yes:

I'll try that...thanks. Maybe it'll cheer me up :(

I'd say 1400 is about twice what it's worth

:laughin: I found a TCC from an XJ at the yard...BUT...the pedal assembly does not have the crosspiece and the "hole" to put the ting in. I have the wiring complete up to the connector. I also have another pedal assy. with the right hole. It does in fact feel like the TC is locked. Like I said...I'm driving it, but not a lot, until I get a better NSS (one I can re-furb) and the TCC dialed in. The cracked NSS that's in there is kinda working, as in I can start it. It hasn't overheated :banana: ...that's pretty much the ONLY reason I have not taken an overdose of sleeping pills EDIT: Well, that, and I just refuse to submit to defeat. :brows:

One way to find a manifold leak is to seafoam the intake...a leak will be apparent and present itself as smoke INSIDE the engine bay.

I'm driving it. It's not overheating. I still need to fix some of the wiring (TCC switch, NSS needs to be replaced). I still need new gears (axles) but money and time and time and money are not in agreement. I've learned a lot about my truck, frustration is a good thing sometimes, I'm not sad, I hope I haven't made anyone sad.

More likely the coolant spewing all over the engine bay FUBAR'd the TPS or the distributor, got everything wet and screwed everything up electronically The computer (ECU,PCM, ECM whatever) does not shut the engine down when it sees cooler temperature...or a lapse in temperature related computer logic. The TPS does not like getting wet, nor does the distributor. Just those two things will kill the engine. The coolant sensor "coincidentally" being next to the leak is just that...coincidental. A messed up coolant sensor is not going to shut the motor down. A coolant soaked TPS will.

...and has to walk bent over...Crikey!!

I only mentioned starting it to detect a leak as the rail/connectors/injectors WILL leak if there is in fact a leak when it's running. You may be able to find a fuel leak simply by turning the key to the ON position. If there is a leak in the fuel rail connectors, it may show up, but it won't show up in the injector bodies unless it's running. The stock injectors are known to leak between the metal and plastic part. If the injector bodies are leaking, they need to be replaced. You'll get sticker shock if you go to a parts place and ask how much they are...they list at about $50 EACH. A better alternative is something like these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-BOSCH-III-4-HOLE-UPGRADE-FUEL-INJECTORS-87-98-JEEP-4-0-TJ-XJ-YJ-ZJ-/151136329448?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item23306d5ee8&vxp=mtr I've been running these for a few years now, work great, no leaking. DRIVING it with a fuel leak is asking for big trouble. Another quite possible leak area is just after the fuel filter under the truck, driver's side. The rubber hose connector gets rotted, and neglected and also only leaks when the ignition is ON.

KAPUT = broken Ft P Cracker is on the right track as it sounds like an electrical thing. The Fuel Pressure Regulator is not going to change it's output because you open the hood and mess with the injectors. Start the engine and watch it run. Use a flashlight. Look at each injector for leaks as it idles and runs. Then look at the fuel rail connections for leaks, then look at the fuel pressure reg for leaks. You don't want fuel leaks. Fuel leaks cause fires. You don't want a fire. Fix the leaks first before you do anything else. Then chase down the starting problem.

It's abandoned now.

:thumbsup: Our garage is finished, insulated walls and ceiling. It was still cold in there until 2 yrs. ago when we put insulation on the door. Now just the water heater keeps it bearable...of course "sub-zero" around here is about 30F. Point being, the insulation makes a HUGE difference. ...and we're not even hooked up to any sewer.

I'm sending you a PM about the TCC switch picture.