AmJay

CW, I think it is this thread. Here Mac...

I bought the same steering wheel for my CJ7. I really like it. Quadratech sells a chrome horn button that says "Jeep" I kind of liked the look with the all black wheel. I forgot to put that piece of tin foil around the center of the wheel and it took a while before I figured out why my horn didn't work. That powder coat isn't a very good conductor. Mac...

If you have to push the exhaust pipe up an inch or so to get it over the exhaust manifold and clamp it it may not work since it crosses over to the other side of the engine and I don't think there is that much room above where it crosses over. Seems like the oxygen sensor is close to the end of the manifold too so you won't have much to room there either. You'll never know until you try it and if it doesn't work you'll be buying an exhast manifold and the exhaust pipe. I would take it to a muffler shop and see if they can weld the flange back on. Mac...

My Bad. The screw driver is the tool for compressing the spring and removing the snap ring. Mac...

Here's a money maker.. I was in tractor supply the other day and they had "free range chicken poop" lip balm. The caption said: " Grampa say's if you got dry lips, put some chicken poop on them. That'll keep you from licking them".

I've used rubber gas line on my 93 Yukon for a couple years. I have it all the way from the gas tank to the throttle body and on the return line. You have to be sure you get SAE-30R10 hose. It is the only hose rated for pressurized fuel injection lines. A lower grade can be used on the return line but I'd stick with the good stuff. You have to secure it with nylon clamps about every 12 inches.

My dad wanted to buy some property like yours in Michigan's UP. Even the real estate agent hadn't actually seen the property and said unless someone was really ready to buy it he wasn't going to show it. It was 640 acres (1 square mile) with no roads in or out of it completely surrounded by Hiawatha National Forest and most of it was vertical.

If it's just leaking around the cap, they're only about $5.00 at autozone.

So, the stalk is called a mult-function switch? I didn't know that. I do know that newer Grand Cheokees have a multi-function switch. The turn signals and wipers are in on self contained switch package. Mac..

Still, a pretty good write up, but I think most people will still require the spring compressor to get that snap ring off. Don't know why the steering wheel would be locked without the lock plate. :dunno: I think I read somewhere that you can install the lock plate upside down and have a non-locking steering wheel, but I'm skepical about that too. Mac...

What's a multifunction switch?

When they lifted the front did they also add longer shocks? Is the sway bar connected? What else was done besides longer springs? Axles are unsprung weight so the coils won't be different. I used the 4WD off an XJ on my 2wd without a problem and I'm sure the reverse is true. I had the same thing when I bought my Comanche. Someone lifted the front but not the rear. At night my headlights pointed to the sky. Mac...

First, unless we're not seeing some pictures your lock plate is missing. You'd never be able to compress that spring and get that snap ring off with a screw driver if the lock plate was there. You would most likely either bend the lock plate or break the plastic on the steering column. Here's a picture of a lock plate. The lock pin you're referring to engages into the slots in the lock plate. If the lock plate is missing the steering wheel can't lock. That rod that goes to the ignition switch has nothing to do with the lock pin. The rod connects to a Rack that ratchets up and down when you turn the key tumbler. You could just as easily put a flat screw driver in the hole where the key tumber was and moved moved it up and down. Also, your turn signal canceling cam looks broken. Is that a piece of solder and a wire someone's rigged up so the horn will work? Mac...

Nice Job Wombat. I hope mine is no more rusted then yours. Right now I slipped some old license plates up there so I don't look like Fred Flintsone. What guage are the old floorpans and what gauge are the patches? Did you just stitch weld or did you come back and weld the whole thing? What kind of seam sealer did you use? Green_Miner I thought about using an old hood or body panels off my wreaked Comanche too. I'll get some pictures once I star. I need a critique on my welding and I like embarassing myself. I switched to .030 wire and did some practicing on really thin 22 gauge. I didn't burn any holes. I did have too much penetration. I'll be using thicker steel on the floor pans. The low setting on this welder is actually 60 amps according to the manual, I think lower amperage would have worked better.

That body looks way to good for a parts vehicle. Parting it out would be a sin. something like that in the rust belt would fetch a lot more then $400.

Thanks guys. He dropped the welder off, but I have lawn chores so won't get to it for a few days. I thought the wire was gauge like electrical wire. Thanks for clearing that up. The welder came from Harbor freight and just has wire speed and high low setting. I don't know the duty cycle but I'll assume it's very low. He was mistaken it has .035 wire. The pinch wheel has grooves for 2 sizes. So, I'll get some .030 wire and tips and do some practicing. I don't think I'll go any thicker then 18 gauge steel probably 20 because I have to be able to bend it and cut it and 16 is just too hard for me to work with. I don't think the floor pans are that thick. I think they use a higher carbon steel then my thicker CJ floor pans. I plan on replacing the carpeting with vinyl so moisture won't be as big a problem as carpeting. I'll also paint on some POR 15. My floor pans rusted from the inside out. My Comanche was Zebarted by someone years ago as evidenced by the plugs in the rocker panels. I wonder how flammable that stuff is? Anyway, this is probably a good place to start learning how to weld since It'll all be covered and looks aren't that important and if I like it I can buy a welder with the money I'm saving having a body shop do it. Mac...

A friend of mine will loan me his MIG welder. It's a cheap 110v 45/90 Amp flux welder. It's set up for 30 guage. He says it can take 35 gauge wire if I buy the tips and wire. Does anyone know if this would be good enough to weld in new floor pans? My guess is it will make a lot of holes and probably warp on the 20 gauge steel I was going to use. I'm not sure the floor pans are even 20 guage. Has anyone done this? Do you think it would work? I really should buy my own MIG one of these days. Mac...

Do your 4 way flashers work. Do your brake lights work? Tail lights and running lights use a different filament in the bulb so the fact that they work doesn't prove much.

I used front door manual regulators off a 4dr XJ. The year escapes me, but I think as long as it's a model that has the vents you'll be ok. Finding an XJ with manual regulators isn't that easy since most of them have power windows. I found them on eBay for $20.00 each and bought them based on the picture since the seller didn't say what they were for. I did one of the online parts searches and the only reply I got was $70.00 + 20 shipping...I passed. In hind sight that was a bargain compared to what I paid for window wipes. What color door panels are you hoping for? I may have a pair of light gray, but I can't remember what shape they're in and my parts truck is 50 miles away. I can check the next time I go there which is every 2 or 3 weeks. I just re-read are you looking for parts for a later model door? Sorry, can't help there. Mac...

I just replaced my complete exhaust system including CAT because the previous owner cut off the CAT and put on a flowmaster 40. I didn't like the sound at all. I've owned and own some sweet sounding engines. My 61 Corvette, 72 Olds 442, 69 Dodge Dart 340 and CJ7 with 360 sound great. the 4.0 is not a great sounding engine. I found the constant drone of the engine and the pitch change every time I gave it a little gas or backed off on the gas to be really annoying especially on long trips. I paid around $370 for, exhaust pipe, CAT, tail pipe (Still wonder why the 6' bed pipe is $30.00 more then the 7'), muffler, gaskets, hangers and clamps. This was about $200 cheaper then the local Lentz muffler shop and took about an hour. I love the way it sounds. The muffler was the cheapest direct replacement one that NAPA sells. Everything fit, no cutting or cussing. Mac...

Looks great. When you build mine you need to add license plate lights. It's the law.. Mac...

Nice! Mine is broken too. The window just flaps in the breeze. Where did you get the bolts? How did you separate the glass from the frame? This would be a nice DIY article.

I'm glad your harmonic balancer is good. Those are a pain to change. You shouldn't have to put washers on the Fan bearing flange to keep the pulley from hitting your timing cover. So, what's up with that? It's too dark for pictures, but that just isn't right. Any in out or wobble in that bearing? I bet it's a lot easier to work on without the shroud around the fan.

Answering my own question... Rock auto also sells it for $32. Still would rather have the original setup.

My heater control valve is weeping antifreeze. I wanted to take care of it before it is gushing antifreeze. Team cherokee is the only place that I've found that has the valve. Looks like I have to cut the compression fittings and clamp the new valve in. The problem is $50+ dollars, probably closer to $70.00 by the time it ships seems really high. Anyone know of a place that sells the original hose, valve? I really don't want to use JY parts since they will also be 20+ years old.