desbennett004

:hmm: Turned to crap overnight? Ya lol but just figured it out. Map sensor vacuum hose came out lol plugged her in and she's perfThis post saved me $45. Was just about to order a new CPS, checked the vacuum line going to the MAP sensor. It was broken. Thanks! Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Found the problem, looks like I broke the vacuum line to the MAP sensor! Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Can you put the flywheel in incorrectly? It seems to me it can only go in one way, or the holes don't line up. Is that right? I have mine installed, it starts fine, but it won't go above idle without popping and missing. I'm thinking it's the CPS, but wanted to make sure I put the flywheel in right. If what you say is true, if they sent me a HO flywheel for my Renix, would it run badly like mine is doing, or would it not run at all? Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Hey, quick question, did you have any running problems after the swap? Mine starts fine, but it won't rev up past idle without backfiring and popping. I don't think you can put the flywheel on incorrectly, otherwise the holes won't line up. Is that right? I'm second guessing myself after I put it all together. I'm going to change the Crank Position Sensor, since I used the original. I'm hoping that's the problem. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

My AX15 in my 99 behaves similar. I changed the master slave assembly, didn't make a difference. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

SOA is the easiest and cheapest way to get 5 or 6 inches of lift. You need perches for 2.5" wide springs and a 2.75" axle tube. I bought mine from amazon. You will also need shock mounts to weld on, you can reuse your original mounts, but it takes some work, and probably some really short shocks. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

It will be fine. Don't run it up to 120mph. Pretty certain the shaft in the rear of mine right now is a retubed front, which is even smaller. Well, more like 100% certain, since I had a shop do it. It's even got rock rash on it, no issues. Being .120" wall (the 'heavy' stuff according to anything but off-road driveline shops) it helps. Is there an advantage to running a re-tubed front? Or is it part of a SYE? Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Nope, didn't really think about the wheel base being different. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Did the transmission and transfer case (and the "new" driveshaft) by any chance come from an XJ rather than an MJ? Yes, it all came from a 98 XJ. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

I only ever drove drunk once, in June of 2004. I quit drinking the next day and haven't had a drop since. It's just not worth it. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Might be the way to go, seeing as I already have it. Might be a little more money than shortening a shaft, but at least I don't have to look for and buy another one. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

That's good information, I appreciate it. I was at pick and pull today looking for drive shafts, but the majority of them are damaged from being moved by a forklift. I will call around locally, see if I can get a deal on shortening a Chev driveshaft, seeing as I already have new u-joints ready to go in. Might get lucky. Can't find MJ 4x4 parts around here, so will have to make do with what we can find. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Yeah it is the original shaft. I guess that makes it difficult to modify also. Is there another vehicle that uses shafts with the same yoke sizes? It's cheaper for me to get one shortened than get one made from scratch. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Hi Guys, Just swapped the AX15/231 with the Chrysler 8.25 rear end combo into my 89 Comanche last week. It has 6" of lift in the back. My question is, what have you guys done for rear drive shafts? My stock 2wd shaft is around 11" too long, and the shaft I have that came with the transmission is around 11" too short. Complete length needed including slip yoke is about 47.5". I thought I read somewhere that a stock shaft would be pretty close, but that doesn't seem to be the case. I'm planning to get exact measuments and get the stock shaft shortened, but I wanted to double check with you guys before I dropped the $200 to get it done. Anyone have any better ideas? TIA. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Keep a track of the injector clips, if you lose one you're in trouble. Also be careful when putting in the new injectors that you don't damage the O-rings. Also turn on your ignition to check for leaks before and after you bolt everything back together. I learned all this the hard way. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Just knock the guts out of it and weld it back in empty. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

1.5 to 2" of rake might not be that bad. If you keep it at 4.5 in the front and end up at 6" or less in the back I think it would be just fine. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

If you measure back on your AX15 case I think you'll find the mount plate holes are in the same place.........they are on the AX5............2w to 4w are exactly the same. My 2w used the same mount and Xmember as the 4w...........may be something as simple as you have the Xmember turned around. I'd figure this out before you start drilling holes. You can't put the 98 crossmember on backwards with the 98 mount. It only goes on one way. The 89 mount doesn't line up with 98 trans. The rear mounting holes in the frame DO line up perfectly, but they are not tapped. I will be tapping them this week, I don't have access to my tap and die set right now. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reply. I saw the extra set of holes, they didn't seem to be threaded though. I will double check when I get back there today. If they aren't, I might just drill them out a bit and use grade 5 bolts and nuts. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Bump Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Hi Guys, I have a quick question. I am just swapping in an AX15 from a 98 XJ into my 89 MJ which had the 2wd AX15 in it. I've got the Trans bolted in, but I am having trouble with the mount and crossmember. Do you use the mount on the 98 AX15 with the 98 crossmember, or the original 89 crossmember? Is modification required, or is it bolt in? Coz I'm having a hard time getting holes to line up. I did a quick search, couldn't find the answer, and I'd like to get this buttoned up tonight. TIA Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

I paid $1500 for my 89 2wd 5 speed with very little rust, but I got a really good deal. Am currently in the middle of a 4X4 conversion. MJ's are worth differnt amounts depending on the region also. I know here in Alberta, my Commanche is worth around the $3500-$4000 as is. I would think it would be a great deal for you at around the $1500 mark, but personally I would take a jerry can of gas and a new battery with you when you go look at it. If it doesn't start, you can talk them down a lot. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

That means it will be around 2035 when I will be able to afford to buy a used one with less than 200,000 on the clock and minimal rust. Just have to get my MJ to last until then.... Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Are those Trail Rated badges you have? I was thinking of getting some Mall Rated badges for mine. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Swap it all. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk