desbennett004

Yeah 33x 10.5 are hard to come by these days. I will be in the same boat when I get my next set, because I don't want to get any wider. I would do 9.5 wide of I could, much better in snow. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

You probably break even if you were able to sell a couple parts and then sell the rest for scrap metal. Unless you needed a Trans right away, I personally wouldn't bother. It's easy enough to pick up a transmission when/if you need one. And a 3" lift new is about as cheap a lift as you can do. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

I had similar damage from hitting a minivan with my XJ. Cost me $300 in parts from Pick and Pull, and about 4 hours of labor. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

You are right, I've seen a 4.6 sitting next to a 460cu big block, they are basically the same size. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Don't mean to hi-jack your thread, but are the elminator wheels with the rivets getting hard to find? My Pioneer came with them when I bought it. I'm guessing they weren't stock. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Some people's kids..... Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

I bought spring perches and shock mounts from eBay. Just figure out what lift you want before welding the perches on, so you can get your pinion angle right the first time. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

That's a good deal. However, he is uncertain as to which bar..........do you know? I know the 2 bar is for forced induction.......do you know if it matters? I looked this up in the past and really got no answer. I replaced mine with a GM MAP, it works, from now on I'll only buy ones that are embossed with GM. I would be interested to know this also. Would if effect running if it wasn't forced induction? I plan to turbo my MJ in the distant future when I have a couple grand burning a hole in my pocket... Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Got mine on Ebay. Can't remember the price, but I remember it was cheaper for 6 cleaned and tested than I could get 1 locally. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

I got the problem fixed on another thread. Had to slot the holes on my CPS to get it closer to the flywheel. Thanks. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Good info, thanks. I thought they might be an OE part from something common, but it's cheap enough on Ebay. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

I understand this but since this is a daily I would like to have a shaft made before hand if possible so I can get it done quickly and efficiently And I understand that too. Just saying pick a point close to the end of the project, then measure and submit your order. A good local shop can turn it around in a day. One-half an inch error can make or break the project. Too short you can make it up with a longer slip yoke. Too long and you're screwed unless you have enough extension on the yoke to hack some off. I have to admit I found out the hard way...................Just out of curiosity, where do you get a longer slip yoke? Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Did you go with an SYE too. Or the stock slip yoke and shortened stock shaft?I went with stock slip yoke, but the drive shop i used wouldn't shorten then stock double wall shaft with the rubber membrane in it, so I got an XJ shaft lengthened. It cost more. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk did you happen to have any lift on the jeep or is your measurements for stock height?I did spring over Axle with a Chrysler 8.25. Got about 5.5 - 6" of lift. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Did you go with an SYE too. Or the stock slip yoke and shortened stock shaft?I went with stock slip yoke, but the drive shop i used wouldn't shorten then stock double wall shaft with the rubber membrane in it, so I got an XJ shaft lengthened. It cost more. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

You will need to have one made. Mine was 42.5" center to center plus the slip yoke. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Fuel pressure between 31 and 40 psi, check MAP sensor, check CPS. That's what has worked for me. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

http://cruiser54.com/?p=50 Do this. It worked for me yesterday. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

No Sir, I did not, I fired it up and it ran great. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Haven't heard anything like that. Didn't know there was a problem with them, until Cruiser shared his tip about slotting the holes on the sensors mounting brackets. It works awesome, runs even better than before I did the Trans swap. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

I just used the Shock plate. Didn't have to modify it at all. I will probably be cutting the shock mounts off, as I welded mounts right on the back of the axle tubes. I was thinking of using them in some kind of limiting strap assembly, but haven't thought it through yet. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

It's made by Standard SMP. Part number PC87. Looks exactly the same as the one that came out of it, but I doubt that was original either. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Thanks for your input Gents, and thank you for the tip Cruiser, I would have been lost without it! Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Here is a picture of 2 CPS, the one is stock and the other is the one I drilled out. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

I got it fixed Gents. Checked my fuel pressure, it's running between 31 and 39 psi. Checked my MAP sensor, it stalled out when disconnected electrically, and effected the idle when the vac line was disconnected. So that's all good. Checked the voltage on the CPS, it was good. So I slotted out the holes on the CPS bracket and reinstalled, making sure I had it pushed down as far as possible when tightening the bolts. Fired up great, and it revs up with no stutters or backfiring or anything. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk