Torq_Shep

I know this is an old thread but $125 a piece?

I would only do it because I already have a CAD axle with the right gears. I am pretty sure I am not going to but still =P

I was considering putting my front disco axle in my truck, I read a bunch of forums, and finally searched the SAE papers... I found one published last year by FCA, GM, etc "Axle Efficiency Comparison Method and Spin Loss Benefit of Front Axle Disconnect Systems" I am pretty sure I cannot share the entire paper, and most of it is test methodology (interesting to me as it aligns with what I do for work but useless to most). However, the results were interesting. What these two graphs represent is the "On Throttle Loss" and the "Off Throttle Loss". So if you are trying to get more power from your rig, the FAD won't impact anything, however, if you want to improve fuel economy, the FAD will decrease drivetrain losses while going down a hill or slowing down fairly significantly. The axle disconnect style is of the same type (although electronically controlled) as the ones in our old D30s. Will I swap back to disco axle with a posi-lock? I am not sure yet =P

Wow this looks awesome! Nice Score!

Does anyone have any experience with using real 2k without primer? I have PPG 2k clear that I can spray them with but I am worried about adhesion.

Did you use 2k clear?

I have a set of pretty decent eliminator wheels that 3 of 4 have essentially no corrosion but the clear coat is gone. One of them has minor corrosion but I think that it can be repaired without losing the machined finish. Should I have these chemically stripped and recoated with something? Is clear powder coat better than 2k clear? Any idea best method to prep these?

I have been slowly doing a bunch of small things with it. So far I have put in @Dzimm's fancy cab vents, installed the correct door cards (Had Laredo ones in it), fixed a bad pressure switch in the AC and recharged it, and found a set of eliminator wheels I need to get refinished.

So I bought this Jeep recently from another member on here. I will wait for him to respond to make sure he is okay with being named =P He did a ton of really great work to it and I am 100% in love with this truck. The best part is there are definitely things I am going to do to make it my own and get it to where I want it to be. As it sits currently: 4.7 ATK Stroker AX15 NP242 D44 Rear with clutch pack LSD Factory Rollbar A bunch of other really good stuff Major issues: Floorboard rust and some frame corrosion to be addressed. Paint is peeling in some areas Tailgate that came with the truck isn't painted Engine cooling fans are questionable (DBOR triple setup but I can never get more than 2 to work at a time) A/C works but absolutely sucks... Minor issues: Seats have been reupholstered but the new fabric is already worn out. Non-factory head unit I personally like the eliminator wheels over the rubicons Front grille and cowl are cracked Windshield has a chunk missing out of it (on the inside where the rear view mirror was)

And the second post reserved.

I am going to try and recreate @Limeyjeeper build thread for this Jeep based on the pictures he sent me. Limey bought the jeep sometime in 2007 in roughly the following condition. Note this was an Illinois jeep so yes it had/has rust. Interior was in good condition and as optioned it had a roll bar, NP231, D35 rear, 4.0, and AW4. Overall a pretty decent little truck. The bed, tailgate, rocker panels, cab corners, and parts of the floorboard were all replaced with not rusty pieces.

I refuse to watch it... I am childhood friends with one of the contestants in the first season (may or may not have won...) and let's just say there are no positive feelings for said person.

I tried buying a Vista one twice but both times had my money refunded. If someone has one they are willing to sell I will buy it. Thanks!

You could try a bit of mothers back to black to get rid of the chalkyness. Unless yours are just completely fried?

It could still be decent if someone wants to assume floors, rockers, cab corners, and a tailgate in repairs. 5k isn't completely out of the question if it is literally 100% stock/unmolested and with repairable rust.

It is for the comanche I have a small electronics project I want to add using that switch and trim.

Does anyone know of any gate protector products we could start using to prevent bowing? I am in the process of straightening mine out and once it is straight I want to use it but I also don't want to bow it again...

I was stoked to find them. I still want to find a set of them for the orange one on the outside.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/Cherokeepers?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=970358658 Found these. Ordered a number of them, I will let y'all know the quality.

Dzimm answered it way better =P

Hell yeah! Congrats! That is a pretty big accomplishment!

To be honest I had to google OPDA. For some reason I assumed they used a different oil pump drive method on the 00-01s. Did not realize they literally just made this =P

Hi That Guy! Your harness is slick AF I just don't think it is quite right for my application. I already have the ECU and a 1996 dash and engine harness that I am in the process of striping, cleaning, re-wrapping (maybe add some pins) etc. I understand the pricing 100% as custom building harnesses takes a ton of time, I have a background in engine stand testing... With that being said if you want to sell some pins so I can add a pigtail or two to the harness I am rebuilding to experiment with COP and potentially trying to use the other unused O2 signal pins to send data back to ECU for OBD2 data logging of wideband and maybe a knock box if I get crazy enough... I have a loose 1991 Dash harness I am going to compare to the 1996 dash harness to see what the differences are when interfacing with the engine harness. I have also heard that the 00-01 ECUs don't play nice with the 1991-1996 Tachometer. In any case if you are willing to let me pick your brain a bit I am still in the research phase of doing this. Also curious on if my COP plan is even feasible with the 1991-1999 Cam Pos sensor in the distributor can be left in place and work with an 00-01 ECU.

Definitely some sarcasm in the title =P I was astonished when I read it...

Custom brackets!