DJM/78

Nice find , whacha gonna do with it ? :peek:

Thanks Eagle , I'll check it out ! Thanks Johnnyc and blue XJ , will be looking around , I am going to fully lock the front though . :chillin:

I used after market Best Top TJ , seats out of an 01 " . he he he I remember all that work ....... wait , I don't want to remember all that work . :shake: Very much worth it though ! :yes:

I would love to , but just the ARB true-lock itself not including the air tank and compressor is about 800.00 :ack: Not including labor to press my bearings or a new axle shaft witch is all together is quoted at just over 2000.00 per axle . :ack: :help: :doh: :wall: :drool: :( I'll try that ! Most of the guys who have track-lock have XJ's , never met a guy with an MJ that didn't just weld the axle . :ack: Not a whole lot around here to look at and get opinions . Thanks guys for your opinions . :thumbsup:

I just noticed , you put this in MJ tech . Try putting your thread in " Your MJ projects " . :yes:

Very nice find ! Welcome ! Where do you live ? I just saw one of those yesterday , down at the springs CU , campus .

Do they make 100 mile an hour tape in, CHROME ? :rotf:

:rotf: Yeah , but you need a Fred flinstone manual brake , to keep from flying of the edge . :shake:

OK , I'm an idiot , so I'm good rebuilding my Dana 30 ?

New style valve cover , without the " towers " to prevent oil from collecting . I am looking at the same conversion . I think the new style is a steel valve cover ,but I'm not sure when the change over was .

All I can say is , :popcorn: :brows: :drool: :bowdown:

I am again looking for your masterful know how . I am rebuilding my Dana 44 , I was thinking of a couple of set ups . Here is the one I leaning to . A trac-lock rear for my 44 and an ARB true lock in the front . I have had a couple of friends tell me they love their track-lock in the rear , but fully lock the front , with selectable air lock . After going through some options , I like that idea . Plus its allot cheaper to rebuild my rear 44 that way . Now the front . Pete says never invest in a Dana 35 , however what options do I have ? I am completely rebuilding my Dana 30 , mostly to match the gearing on my 44 . I want the front axle width to be stock , I have seen a couple of guys put a 44 in the front, but the front axle sticks out further than stock . :dunno: I don't like that look . I want my truck to look like the factory built it that way . Please , all comments welcome ! Just remember I am mr :dunce:

I don't get very good milage , mine is a 4.0 HO , DD , 31" tires , high altitude driving and a lead foot . :yes: 31" only took my spedo off about 5mph , not too bad . It evens out because I drive my bikes as DD , two thirds of the year . :banana: Here comes spring . :thumbsup:

Used to before every corner had a speed shop, you could send a cam shaft to any good machine shop and get any profile you wanted on it. Does anybody still do that? Supporter of the underdog and staunch believer in 2.5 equality There is a shop up here in the springs called Castrol GTX performance and machine . They will do anything you want . I had a couple of things done there . Hot tanking , true decking , porting and polishing , valve angles and blue printing . Over sized cams , polished cam lobes , titanium valves . Mostly on old Pontiac big block motors and a couple of chevy small blocks . They will build you anything . However , by the time you do all that , you can find a used corvette LT1 motor w/ram jet intake , slap that baby in there . With low gearing , it will be hard keeping the tires on the ground ! Or slap your Buick HO in there . Shut up and hold on !!!!!! :drool:

Hardcore Smokey and the Bandit fan ? :dunno: I think its cool though , I've had a 77" and a 78" Trans Am . The 78" was a Bandit edition , all black with the gold trim . Had the 400 pontiac HO . The 77" was a formula T.A , with the Buick small block 400 . My 78" would eat it for lunch . Sorry to rant , but its one of my favorite cars ever besides my 72" GTO Lemans .

Mine was glued as well , but the thread on the shifter comes out , you can put that thing in whatever you want . Glue it back on and re-locktite the thread . Here is mine I used a real pool ball for like 20 bucks . Used the stock thread and nut .

Do you have any nuts laying around , that you could test fit the thread ?

Welcome ! You should post pics , before someone tags you with this . :needpics: Sorry its bound to happen . :D

Oh' you mean like mine . found it with a topper that didn't quite fit and the plaid bench seat . :chillin: Nice find ! I wish mine had that many miles though . :ack:

Really , its personal preference . My opinion , find a 91"-95" 4.0 HO . If your going to do it , do it all ! There is an active thread on a 2.5 - 4.0 HO conversion , might help you out . :thumbsup:

I don't know if you have tried this , but I always keep a bar of lava soap around . When I was younger I took my car off road and punctured the gas tank on a big rock, hidden by weeds . :doh: My dad showed me a trick . If you can find the leak , take a bar of lava soap and rub it into the hole . When gas mixes with soap , it causes a chemical reaction that solidifies the soap creating a rock hard substance , sealing the hole. That got me home ! I was going to replace the tank but it never leaked again , so I didn't have too :nuts: May not work if the crack or hole is too big . :dunno: Just a suggestion . :cheers:

Here is mine , I don't do anything real hardcore with mine , but its plenty beefy . I'm not done with it yet . It needs a couple of mods . Image Not Found Image Not Found

Did you rubber line the floor or use any matting ? Thats first thing I did when I got my truck . Works great . No more :shake:

There are allot of manufacture's that do this from the factory . Honda is one of them , the stock air box is all the way down by the front bumper , just behind the fog lights , if it has them . I used to run a ram air injection , on my 72" GTO . There was nothing but the filter to stop water from getting in there . However I never had a problem . It was the double scoop version , right in front of the hood . I don't think you will have any problems with water spray . Its going to take allot of water to get up that pipe . I wouldn't be driving through any streams or lakes though . :ack: A small dust filter will help get rid of any major particles , But you still have the filter in the box as well . That will stop everything . But your going to test it out for us . he he he :D

Yes , pulling the rear window is just the best way to eliminate any wasted time . The bead on the pinch weld is usually ran from the top to the bottom . Its really hard to run a solid constant bead all the way around . Thats were allot of the problems exist . Some shops stop the bead at the top corner of the pinch weld , then starting a new bead down the side . You need to overlap the urethane so that there are no breaks in the bead . I continue the bead around the corners then stop about 3"inches down from the corner . Then continue the bead around the bottom corner . The back glass or rear slider has a fixed seal that does not come off , however there is a rubber seal around that . Before you tackle this let me do a write up , there are a couple of small things that will need to be addressed . I haven't taken my slider out yet so I don't know exactly what's in there , but I'll get on that . I have been waiting to do mine until I get a new slider , if their even possible to find new . My windows rattle like crazy , it pisses me off . Besides it never ceases to amaze me , these guys that do all this restoration work , almost never look at the condition of the pinch welds . You can always tell how much they put in the paint job , by the condition of the pinch welds and door jams . I,ll get on that write up , ASAP . :thumbsup: