Dzimm

Double check the ground behind your driver's side taillight, it's an extremely important ground point. Also do the Cruiser's tips relating to upgrading grounds. Since you say the 12v comes and goes right away, it sounds like the computer might be cutting fuel. Try running 12v directly to the pump under the truck and see if it kicks on. If it does, then you know the pump is good so you can start checking sensors.

Apocalypse Auto on YouTube has some videos of their vehicles going to Wasteland Weekend. Not my cup of tea but quite creative.

It goes into one of the holes on the frame to hold the cable away from the exhaust and tires.

Sounds like you are doing the proper research and are on the right track. Used is a good way to get a decent computer for cheap. I cringe when I see people looking for the cheapest brand new computers and going by the i numbers.

DO NOT buy into the i3 < i5 < i7 crap. The model of the processor determines what its capable of, the i number doesn't mean much. There are a ton of i5s that are better than the i7s. Do your research on the processor model number so you know what it actually is. I got out of the IT world a couple years ago but HP was at the top at that time and still seems to be. The big question is what do you want it for? What do you use it for? At $200 - $250 you are basically buying a paperweight, computers these days are garbage unless you spend around the $500 mark. Unfortunately cheap technology is only getting cheaper in quality. I would say for a generic, run of the mill laptop that you want at least 8gb of DDR4 RAM, 1TB HDD if you want storage or 250GB SSD if you want speed and not storage, and a U series Intel (7200ish) or Mobile 5 series AMD Processor.

BFG KO2 is probably the tire I've seen praised the most currently. I want a set, just can't afford them right now.

This is the absolute correct answer. They are torque to yield so do not reuse them after they have been installed. OP if you are looking to replace them, cut them off and order ubolts made for your axle, they should come with new nuts. The nuts you need won't be at a hardware store. You should have the correct size wrench in your toolbox for the new nuts. If not, use calipers or tape measure to find the size you need as replacement nuts may not be the same size as factory.

Yeah keep a fire extinguisher handy. This is a better and safer method, might be hard getting the smoke to your leak if it's in a manifold tho.

Hmm. What's the air movement like in that area from the fan? Would you be able to keep a match lit to see if it will draw the smoke in?

It's possible it's on the bottom side of the manifold, did you look from underneath?

A simple hose clamp. Just turn it in an awkward way so it's damn hard to get off. Best tailgate lock we've all got laying around the garage.

Maybe try a little soap and water to see if you get bubbles at the seal. Would at least narrow it down to an exact spot if that's where it's at.

Yeah I went with grease designed for wheel bearings. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0077K8WJC/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_z8AUBbEVC5HC1 I didn't know there was a special tool to pack bearings. I've just seen it done with the glob of grease in the hand like you describe.

Actually that brings up a question I've always wondered. I've seen people do it 2 different ways and both seem to be correct, but which is better or which do you guys who've done this a few times over the years do it? First way is slowly pushing bearing into the grease glob and rotating the bearing until it's had grease pushed in all over. Second way is to do the rapid slamming the bearing into the grease glob and rotating as you go.

See that's just crazy to me. But hey if it works it works. Here's the list of parts I ordered. Went ahead and got new bearings and everything. Got cotter pins and bearing grease coming from Amazon.

Awesome. Thanks everyone for the help. I think everything is squared away. Just gotta wait for delivery.

Yeah that is much closer to what I was reading online. I feel better about that process. I would love to get some FSM but I can't afford all the different sets I would need. I usually can find the info I need online but this was hard to find good info on. Speaking of cotter pins, I assume there are stronger cotter pins for axles. I was looking at the assorted sets on Amazon just to have a huge batch at hand but I'm worried they are softer steel, especially since this truck will be driven hard. Do I need to source a stronger pin and relatively expensive pin or is it worth it? Also do you know what size the pin is? The Haynes has no info on it.

Part numbers helped a bunch. Looks as tho there are nothing on the performance side for these brakes. I think I've got everything I need ready to purchase on rockauto. I also found my Haynes manual and located the wheel bearing service for the 2wd and am shocked to find the nut only needs to be hand tight. That's crazy to me.

Supposedly in 1993 they stopped making the spindle style 2wd Jeeps and they started to share the hub and brake parts with the 4wd models. I found a couple rotors from some no name companies on rockauto but I was hoping for something better with some improved performance. As for brake pads, I'm not seeing much. It just seems like no big companies make or carries brake parts for the spindle style 2wd.

Pushbullet is super nice to wireless move files between windows and Android. Otherwise es file explorer is the best manager app I've come across. Definitely has its weak points tho. Windows just announced a new built in windows app that integrates with Android that should be coming soon. From the sounds of it, it is going to be super nice.

Yes, same Rusty's kit JMO413 mentioned.

What I've been reading online says the opposite. Says that only the 86 MJ had both styles and all other 2wd Jeeps until 1993 had the spindle. Looking at mine from the back side, they look like spindles, there is the dome dust cap on the outside, and feeling around behind the rim I can feel two seems on the rotor behind the wheel that looks to match the pictures I'm seeing of the integrated rotor/hub. As far as turning the rotors, I haven't looked close enough at them but for the price, I'd rather just replace them. Not that you can see much but here is a picture I took earlier today. You can see it has the 2wd style caliper, and from what I'm reading, those don't interchange with 4wd calipers. I suppose I could change out the knuckles but then I might as well just find a whole new axle.

That Rusty's kit is the shortest kit I could find with full springs as well. I'm totally happy with it tho, really isn't too tall. I could see it getting out of hand if you put huge tires on it. Mine has 29" tires but they look small. With 30" or 31" it would fill the wheel wells out but would raise the truck a little more.

So after replacing the brake lines and upgrading the master and booster in the 92, I had an issue with the brakes sticking due to air trapped in the master I think. Anyway I got the sticking issue fixed but I did end up smoking the brakes while testing and ended up with warped rotors. The strange thing is that on my 45 minute drive to and from work, about 10 minutes down the highway at 60-70mph, the front end starts to oscelate slowly and rapidly gets bad enough I have to pull over. After stopping, I take off again, drive highway speeds the rest of the way with no issue at all. This all started immediately after warping the rotors so I'm pretty sure that's the issue. Before warping the rotors, I could drive all the way to work, up to 80mph the whole way with no issues. The problem I'm having now is finding replacement brake pads and rotors because of the crazy 2wd one piece hub/rotor thing. I've been scowering old threads and autoparts websites, I'm looking for some sort of upgrade parts but I can only find those for 4wd models. Anyone know of better pads, rotors, or calipers than the basic ones available? Also why does autozone list the regular rotors as fitting the 2wd, just with " *rotor only " shown under the listing? Is there a way to split the hub and rotor and just replace the rotor or is it truly a one piece and autozone is just crazy? Also, I want to confirm what I think the replacement process is for these. What I'm reading seems to be a mixed bag of people's opinions. - remove cotterpin - pull off the nut with 36mm - pull then replace hub/rotor - tighten nut to 25ft/lbs - back nut off 1/2 turn - replace cotterpin This look correct?

Just like kryptronic says, watch the electronics the best you can from direct water spray and scrub the engine down good. I use Simple Green since its cheap and can safely be poured in your yard or driveway, and just put it in a squirt bottle or water bottle with a hole in the lid.