Dzimm

You coming through again this year? Worked out well last year!

Why the heck would they put a drop spindle in a minivan?? Gotta have all the ground clearance to clear those... speed bumps? Also was curious how a beam axle under an MJ rear end was gonna work until I reread your post. definitely pretty slick for a trailer, a lot of ground clearance and removing the weight of an inoperable diff.

I would highly recommend fixing it up and having a beater/run-around truck you can have fun with. As you probably feel about your blue truck, as do I my trucks, you don't want to drive them all that much because of all the time and money you put into it. Build this truck into something you can have fun with and not care if it gets scratched or dinged up. I would really caution about parting a truck that has a usable title and little rust. It won't take much to get it running, especially with a cab full of parts and leftovers from your other truck. Just keep it in your head that it's a beater so you don't go making it all super nice.

Looks like a good clean truck to start a build with. Is there a title issue or something?

Because.... Race car? There has to be diminishing returns having that much resistance on the exhaust. Also would require a VERY large oil reservoir somewhere to keep those all cool. Curious if they will finish and make functional or if it was just for the photo.

https://www.car-part.com I Searched 90 Comanche -> axle & brakes -> wheels w/ images Carpart.com lists tons of studded 10 holes. In case you were unaware, these came on the Comanche Eliminator.

Yeah do searches for 97+ swaps. There are plenty of threads here (mine in my sig) and most of us who have done it will be willing to answer specific questions for you. It's a pretty straightforward swap with little fabrication. As stated, check that head.

It looks like the under axle spring pads are still on the axle. Can you confirm this? If so it would be as simple as swapping the packs back under the axle and flipping your u-bolts/plate.

All the front end XJ kits should bolt up, there may be an outlier or two but overall they are pretty much identical in the front.

Mine are sometimes delayed a few minutes but I believe it's due to the background refresh time setting in my Gmail app. I do get them all tho. Tapatalk notifications however have been severely delayed recently, over an hour sometimes. I don't use it anymore but still have the app so I get notifications from it.

I used to have knee issues through high school and college but they seem to have gone away. My current issue is my back, very similar to what you posted Pete. Mine is a disk pushing on my spinal cord. It can be minor where I just can't stand up straight, other times I get stuck and can't move because of the excruciating pain and have to get help to get down to the floor. Those days are not fun. I usually have flare up after doing projects such as working on the Jeeps all day. Today it's sore from replacing our tub/shower this weekend. I am worried tho as I get older as my mom has disk issues as well. I can't remember what her issue is called but they have told her she will need surgery to fix it. It is however the most invasive surgery you can get because they have to go through the front to fix it. The big reason she hasn't done it yet.

That thing got freakin hammered. Couldn't have felt good being in it.

Were you able to get the cab vents out in one piece or did they end up crumbling on you?

Come do mine now.... Looked really good afterwards.

Wouldn't surprise me, I tried to get ahold of the moderators over there a few times in the last couple months and never got responses. I've never really had much luck over there though. It's seemed as there was less and less traffic/posts over time.

I've never tracked the horn wiring anywhere but I can say typically it's only got a single wire. Both the horn button and the horn itself are fed positive voltage, the horn body is grounded to the truck body and the horn button touches the metal steering column for ground when pressed. I'd try to get the factory horn working as intended instead of trying to figure out the POs wiring. Unless you are just going to remove their crap entirely.

Nothing too special left that I can see. If you are cutting the rockers, I'd say grab the cab corners as well. You shouldn't have an issue getting rid of them later on.

Have you checked out Car-Part.com?

The only vehicle I've used a mechanical oil pressure gauge on is my Suzuki Sidekick and that fluctuates a lot with different throttle inputs. Well over 80psi in some cases. I'm not really sure how it would behave with easing into the throttle at cruising speeds as its usually only put to the floor on this thing. I know for the 4.0 stock oil pressure gauge in the cluster it tends to not move all that much. I have read that Jeep may have done something so the gauge stays put as to not freak people out with a gauge that's bouncing around but I have no idea if that's true. But it has been my experience that the mechanical gauge moves a lot compared to stock gauges. That being said, you may have nothing wrong with the motor. It's possible that spike is just a pressure spike when it's trying to get all the fluid moving. I'm not all that knowledgeable on fluid dynamics but IIRC pressure is the resistance to flow. Meaning the more resistance, the more pressure you have. An object at rest tends to stay at rest and it takes more force to get something moving than it does to sustain that movement. I have a feeling this may be the phenomenon you are seeing here a quick pressure spike when the fluid is starting to move/speed up then it settles into the pressure for sustained movement. Keep in mind this is just my arm chair keyboard jockey thoughts based on observation so take it with a grain of salt. Hopefully someone who has a mechanical gauge on a 4.0 motor will jump in and offer up their experience.

That's awesome! Has he made his PC game available to the public at all? I would definitely check it out, I like seeing those Game Jam (quick turnaround) type games. It's amazing what people can do in short time periods. I attempted to go for IT Management and can't imagine going past the most basic programming stuff. Takes a lot of dedication to learn it.

I have seen this picture before. It definitely could be a street MJ, although judging by the work done to it I wouldn't be surprised if they just threw the aftermarket catalog at it. We really need the help of like Reddit to track some of this stuff down for us.

Congrats to yourself as well as your son, that's quite an accomplishment!! What are his plans moving forward? Any dream job he is pursuing?

I've got the rubber brown dog mounts and they don't cause vibration at all. It's the poly versions that will transfer the vibrations. Honestly since you have those mounts new already, I'd run them even not knowing the brand. They are super easy to change and will last at least for a while and at best a long time, definitely going to be better than the probably rotted out factory ones already in the truck and they don't cost you anything.

YES!! This is only an answer to the question in the title.. The truck looks okay, with the black paint/bed liner along the bottom is indicative of rust so I'm guessing the floors are toast. I would also never consider a stroker build to be for "reliability". Definitely asking more than I'd pay for it.