cruiser54

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS IMPROVING THE INSTRUMENT PANEL GROUND NOVEMBER 17, 2015 SALAD 25 COMMENTS The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release knob. The screw will have either a ¼” or 5/16″ head on it. This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, seat belt and key warnings, transmission power/comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things. The problem is that where the ground point is located does not share good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple: Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10″ long. On one end, crimp on a ¼” round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8″ round wire terminal. Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other. Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release knob. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely. Use a coating of OxGard at all ground contact surfaces when attaching the screw and nut. **Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12″ long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.**

Okay. Good

The stat? Yes!! Change it.

No buyers for the operation?

Here.

O2 sensor ain't gonna cause it to get hot. Use only Mopar thermostats. 83501426 AD.

Correct. Something is wrong and it has nothing to do with coolant concentration. It's pressure, circulation, or head gasket.

Okay. If you say so.

Water boils at 212*F at sea level. Coolant just raises the boiling point and keeps the system from corrosion. Everything else being good in the cooling system, it would run right at the thermostat rating.

The type of coolant mix, or the lack of it altogether, will not cause an overheat condition.

Lube the new injector seals with clean engine oil when installing.

Leak fuel or air?

And the one on the back driver's side of the head is the temp SENDER for the instrument panel gauge.

Exhaust gasses show right up with the tester.

I'd pull the water pump. A bad radiator cap could also be an issue. The spring was only in the hose to keep the hose from collapsing when the cooling system was filled using vacuum on the assembly line. Can't hurt to have it, but I've never worried about it and I live in Arizona FWIW. You can rent/borrow a tester that checks for exhaust being present in the cooling system. Called "Block Check" IIRC. Might wanna do that first.

First things to check. Are the intake manifold bolts loose? What's the condition of the hoses below the throttle body? Remove and clean the ground at the firewall. Scrape the paint off under it.

What a guy!! It takes cajones to admit this. LOL. Glad to hear this is solved. Now, I have to ask a question. Did you use my Tip 13 to index the dizzy? This is the first time I've seen this happen. Is there something in Tip 13 that should be clarified?

I know. They're no fun to drive for me if I can't step on it a fair amount of time. But, drive with a vacuum gauge and see how REALLY boring it can be.

Use one of these to save gas.

This might help.

And????

Have you replaced plug wires, cap, and rotor? Look real closely where the injector harness passes from the firewall to the back of the valve cover. Any wires rubbed? You could also reinstall the original injectors.

710s are not the correct injectors. And, are ALL plugs wet, or just certain ones?

Those are 2 different things. Slotting the CPS so it is closer to the flywheel increases it's output. The flywheel teeth or flexplate teeth being off is of those teeth being out of whack rotationally.