cruiser54

even a blind squirrel finds a nut sometimes. Like me.

Pretty much. That unassuming sedan has about 150 HP, a close ratio 5 speed transaxle in the rear, DeDion rear suspension, inboard rear disc brakes, mechanical fuel injection, torsion bar front suspension. 50/50 weight distribution. Engine is a 2.0 liter DOHC crossflow hemi. All aluminum with steel cylinders. I modded it also. Poly bushings, big sway bars, Koni shocks, 11mm cams, header, lightened flywheel etc. Bumpers removed and body shaved to remove any evidence of those 75 pound weights at each end!!

Familiar with the specs?

Long overdue updates on this car. And, I got another!! Mine is on the left. a buddy's is on the right. Below is a photo of the 78 Alfa Sport Sedan.

Glad to hear it.

You have done my Tips? At least 1 through 5?

TPS is likely bad.

You beat me to it. Loose engine bolts can cause just such issues.

Lake George. we went there on vacation in the early 60s.

87 to 90 are interchangeable.

good. That's a start.

Put it in the classifieds with a price OBO.

We're right back to square one. Fix it or sell it.

Good plan.

Probably not gonna find low mileage used engines. But then again, these engines run darn near forever. You can use a 4.0 up through 1999.......

Get 97 and later mirrors. Bolt right on and they're bigger.

Who has rear discs also? Or wants to eliminate the factory distro valve?

Is your starter covered in oil?

Yep. Make sure you install/adjust the switch properly so it doesn't get impacted by the pedal and just operates the switch.

get an IR temp gun.

Yes. I've done both. First off, availability. Secondly, the WJ booster installs more easily since its mounting studs are small and you don't have to fight it going in. Thirdly, doing the brake lines is easier because you have the flexible lines from the master. Just cut off the hard line, install the fittings from your old lines and put a double flare on the pipe. Fourthly, you don't have to move the washer bottle. the only thing you have to do other than brake light switch and drilling the booster rod is making a little clearance at the body seam. I'll include photos. I noticed that the braking was also stronger with the WJ set-up.

It works. You can even go up through 98 Grand Cherokee. Maybe further.

But you need 4 wires on an auto trans vehicle. 2 for the brake light switch which make contact when the pedal is depressed and 2 to break the contact for power to the torque converter. If that switch works, it would be great to know the wiring colors.

Correct. Remove the white plastic switch and use the Caddy one in it's place. On another note, the 99 to 2004 Grand Cherokee booster/master is my favorite swap,