cruiser54

Brake-Kleen

I'm blessed to live where I do in so many ways.

Likely a cracked exhaust manifold. That would also be a cause of the gas smell.

I've been driving White Spar Road for 43 plus years.

Cardone will likely be no help. I have used clay to measure and it can be done with a caliper.

cannister is the only fuel related component on the passenger side. Those hoses go to crap.

I love simple!! LOL

The hose from the throttle body to MAP?

Perhaps pull the valve cover. Maybe a pushrod popped out of place.

Make sure your intake manifold bolts aren't loose. That truck isn't running correctly seeing the symptoms it has.

Carry on. Don't worry. Bleed the system well. When I tracked my supercharged Miata, I used Motul Blue and Gold fluid alternately. Like gogmorgo stated, you can tell when the new stuff has filled the system.

I'm not convinced you or your friend know the difference between a clattering lifter and a rod/crank knock. If it's knocking that bad and it isn't lifters, the engine will need an overhaul anyway. Why not eliminate the possibility of lifters first? How about the flexplate bolts being loose?

Friend isn't any help. Your updated info is. LIKELY it is lifter noise. Do you have an oil pressure gauge in the dash? If so, unplug the CPS and crank the engine over until you see pressure on the gauge. If no gauge, crank it over for one minute. Plug the CPS back in and start it. If it ticks, shut it off after 10 seconds. Wait 10 seconds and restart. What happens? If real ticky, turn it off.

It's winter and this condition seems more noticeable. drive it.

When I replaced the bushings in my Alfa Romeo blue wrench style.

She and her younger sister are the best helpers ever.

Here. $6 at Harbor Freight.

New means little to me any more. There's a way to test the O2 sensor with a meter. I'm off to work now.

You could also have a bad oxygen sensor. Have you looked into the REM featured on the first page of my website?

Relax!! Go drive it.

Go to www.cruiser54.com and complete Tips 1 through 5 as applicable. Also the fuel pump ground fix I will post in it's entirety. Check the hose from the throttle body to MAP sensor. Attachment shows the 4.0 but you get the idea. Check the vacuum hoses at the intake manifold. Make sure the intake manifold bolts are tight. Make sure vacuum hoses are routed correctly. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS IMPROVING THE FUEL PUMP GROUND JANUARY 3, 2016 CRUISER54 54 COMMENTS EDIT The fuel pump and fuel tank sending unit ground at a sheet metal screw up behind the spare tire on an XJ, and behind the driver’s taillamp on an MJ. Not only is a sheet metal screw a lousy way to ground things, this ground path is long and travels through some connectors that are prone to corrosion and moisture. Locate the black wire on the HARNESS side of the fuel pump/sender 3 wire connector. Remove a 6″ length of the split loom covering. Strip back about 1/2″ of insulation from the BLACK wire. Take your new ground wire, preferably at least 14 gauge and 12 to 18 inches long as needed, strip it about 3/4″, and wrap it around the exposed part of the harness plug wire.Solder the connection. Tape it up and reinstall the split loom covering. At the other end of your new ground wire, add a crimp on eyelet. Attach the eyelet under a bolt that goes directly into the chassis. Be sure to clean the attaching point til shiny and apply OxGard to the contact surfaces. Until all of this is COMPLETED, not just gandered at, you're peeing into the wind.

Pump that pedal again. For the sake of science.....

bad ignition switch? Fuel primes, but does the pump stay running when the key is released to the ON position?

Perform the pedal pump again just for fun.