cruiser54

Here's my concern as I'm facing the same dilemma when I put the stroker in. The cam must be broken in for 20 minutes. I'm afraid I wouldn't be able to hear any other sounds while the straight header was blasting away. Not to mention the pissed off neighbors. I have driven broken in/used engines to the muffler shop wit absolutely no issues more than a few times in my life.

Thank you for the clarification on size. I ASSume that 5/16 are for fuel and 3/8 are for trans?

Right on brutha!!

I have NEVER removed the grill panel on a 4.0 to swap an engine. I don't even pull the radiator.

Enjoy. Let me know how the newest tips look to you.

Glad you like it. I'm back for sure. Just had some issues with "management" editing/removing my posts/threads that they thought they were offensive....They probably were. But they were gentle and extremely true!!!! It's all good now.

Here's the latest, and hopefully simplest, revision of my Renix TPS instructions. Hornbrod will get them into my signature link sometime soon. The older ones were a bit confusing and I think these will be easier to follow and understand. RENIX TPS ADJUSTMENT Before attempting to adjust your TPS, there are two things that need to be done. 1) Be sure the throttle body has been recently cleaned. It's especially important that the edges of the throttle butterfly are free of any carbon build-up. 2) With the Key OFF, and using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, set on the lowest scale, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS. The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it parallels the valve cover and also over near the MAP sensor on the firewall. If you see more than 1 ohm of resistance, or fluctuation in your ohms reading, some modifications to the sensor ground harness will be necessary. The harness repair must be performed before proceeding. I can provide an instruction sheet for that if needed. TPS ADJUSTMENT FOR ENGINE ISSUES Both RENIX manual and automatic transmission equipped XJs and MJs have a flat three-wire connector to the TPS which provides data input to the ECU. The three wires in the connector are clearly embossed with the letters A, B, and C. Wire "A" is positive. Wire "B" is ground. DO NOT UNPLUG THE CONNECTORS !! Key ON, measure voltage from "A" positive to "B" ground by back-probing the connectors. Note the voltage reading--this is your REFERENCE voltage. Key ON, back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "C". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be seventeen percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example: 4.82 volts X .17=.82 volts. Loosen both T-20 Torx screws attaching the TPS to the throttle body and rotate the TPS until you have achieved your desired output voltage. Tighten the screws carefully while watching to see that your output voltage remains where it is supposed to be. If you can't achieve the correct output voltage, replace the TPS and start over. Sometimes, after adjusting your TPS the way outlined above, you may experience a high idle upon starting. If that happens, shut the engine off and reconnect your probes to B and C. Start the engine and while watching your meter, turn the TPS clockwise until the idle drops to normal and then rotate it back counterclockwise to your desired output voltage. TPS ADJUSTMENT FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ISSUES RENIX automatic transmission equipped XJs and MJs have a TPS with two connectors. There is a flat three-wire connector, same as the manual transmission vehicles have, and it is tested the same as outlined above—FOR ALL ENGINE MANAGEMENT RELATED ISSUES. However, the automatic TPS also has a square four-wire connector, clearly embossed with the letters A,B,C, and D. It only uses three wires and provides information to the Transmission Control Module. THIS SQUARE FOUR WIRE CONNECTOR IS USED FOR TRANSMISSION/SHIFTING RELATED ISSUES ONLY. First off, DO NOT UNPLUG THE CONNECTORS !! Key ON, measure voltage between "A" positive and "D" ground by back-probing the connector. Note the voltage. This is your REFERENCE voltage. Back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "D". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be eighty-three percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example 4.8 volts X .83=3.98 volts. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage. If you can't, replace the TPS and start over. So, if you have an automatic equipped XJ your TPS has two sides--one side feeds the ECU, and the other side feeds the TCU. For those with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION--the TPS for the manual transmission XJs is stupid expensive. You can substitute the automatic transmission TPS which is reasonably priced. The square 4 wire connector is just not used. Revised 12-15-2013

:banana: Go back to the first page of this tread and re-read the first answer (post #2) :rotfl2:

Quick disconnect part numbers So far the Napa part numbers for just orings is: Napa 730-5018 3/8 Viton individual orings $1.56 each Napa 730-5017 5/16 Viton individual orings $1.35 each Napa CRB 212305 fuel line repair kit 5/16? $15.93 each Mopar repair kits: 83502745 fuel line repair kit 5/16 $6.99 Morris 83504447 fuel line/Trans line repair kit 3/8 $8.99 Morris

Got flashlights in Virginia Beach? Extension cords? Trouble lights?

Thanks Don!!!

I don't know how to post photos up here but I have a diagram of that system. I just sent it to hornbrod.

But the reservoir is there?

Be more specific. No hose from the firewall to the "ball"?

The line runs from the firewall to a reservoir in the passenger side front bumper.

First off, eliminate that worthless and failure prone valve. Just use a connector where it used to be. Plug the vacuum line. What kind of temps is your engine running at?

Loosen the belt and spin the idler by hand. It should be smooth, not lumpy or catchy. If it is, you can replace just the bearing. As for the lights, I would do a complete ground refreshing, as can be found in the link in my signature, along with the connector refreshing. Also address the C101 connector which is also in the link. Please report back.

What temp is it running at? The original style replacement caps can cause issues. The best replacement cap for an 87 to 90 is a Napa 703-1396. FWIW, I have NEVER had to burp a Renix Jeep's cooling system. and, neither did my techs at the dealership. Granted, the cap needs to work properly.. From the factory service manual. Check this out from the FSM This system does not have a radiator pressure cap. Instead the pressure cap is mounted on the coolant pressure bottle. System coolant flows directly through a fully pressurized Hot-Type expansion bottle. Coolant flows through the pressure bottle at all times during engine operation whether the engine is cold or at normal operating temperatures. Larger coolant volume caused by thermal expansion during engine operation is absorbed by the expansion chamber in the bottle. Air trapped in the system is purged through the pressure cap vent valve during maximum coolant expansion..

Thanks for your post. We’re here to help but you must understand that all Jeeps are not the same. In order for us to give you more accurate advice and help, we must know the following, along with detailed information as to the symptoms/problems etc: Year Model Engine Transmission Transfer case

i know, i'll let yall know what happens when i get day light time to mess around with it, Redwolf That daylight stuff happens about 12 to 15 hours each day, doesn't it?

Sounds like a "Fonzie fix" to me. LOL.

Are these the original Renix injectors?

Until you've done that, you're wasting time and money. Remember, don't just look at 'em. Tighten 'em.

One of the springs in your turn signal switch is probably weak/broken. A new switch will fix it for sure. Sometimes you can get by with the springs from the "HELP!" section at the parts store.

Under what conditions does it smoke? Idling, at a stoplight, upon acceleration?