cruiser54

Renix goes into closed loop in a minute or less and is not engine temp dependent.

Fires an ICBM from an unknown location. It's a Ford switch..............

Really nice.

How are you determining open and closed loop? Sounds funky with a CPS on front.

NU. Not Used?

Great plan. Look at the connector pictured in #3. That could be the culprit.

What if it was just a crappy oil sender or an inaccurate dash gauge? The bearings are within tolerance.

Woohoo. Way to stick with it.

From what i gather the TCU is a separate harness. I just was not sure if the 5 speed and auto engine harness leading up to the C101 where the same, and if the wiring from the C101 to the ECU where different between the two I've been debating an auto swap for a while. my current trans is in need of a rebuild and i figured now would be a good time to swap an auto if i wanted one. I'd have to look, but I don't think any of the tranny related stuff goes through the C101.

Correct. Assembly. Always remember that vehicles are designed to be assembled, not worked on.

I don't know about the first part, but the connector on the back of the HL switch utilizes the interior wiring harness ground. Under the knee panel on the left hand side of the steering column. The HL wiring harness itself could be the source of your problem or more likely the HL harness connector under the hood. The connector is located on the drivers side, right underneath the factory air filter location. Look for a big black connector. Correct. See Tips 3 and 18 for photos.

Yup. Copper all the way. NGKs are the best.

Yup. An hour and a half of soldering fun. One set at a time. Certainly worth it.

I'll trade you a known good Renix ECU for it.

It is not, and never was, related to a tractor motor in any way, shape or form. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AMC_straight-6_engine

Excellent!!

Wiper grounds on the driver's side inner fender. Ever read my Tip 18?

It's an adapter for the old MS 1700 which was a gigantic POS. It's a piece of nostalgia and has nothing to do with the DRB. Pete, we could "share" a known good ECU for testing purposes.

The early ones were prone to that. They went through design changes. Grab one from an 89 or 90 or buy new.

Click on the link below and do Tips 1 and 3.

No. If the blower works on any setting, the blower motor is not the problem. The resistor pack is also not likely to be the problem, because when that fails the ONLY speed that works is high speed. I'd say you have some detective work ahead of you. You're right on the detective work, coming home from college today, the radio wasn't working, and the heat/ vents weren't blowing, then all of a sudden they were. Sounds exciting right? Turn signals working? You may have a bad ignition switch and/or toasted connector on it. Probably got hot from the resistance in the blower motor circuit. Click on the link below to my technical photos and you'll see what I'm referring to.

Good research guys. Keep us in the loop.

It was a disaster!!

I always get the later model levers that are black. No more peeling chrome.

That is a GM column.