cruiser54

I'll try to dig mine out soon. Kids moved back in with us and put a huge couch and other crap right behind the door to my shed. I can't get to nuttin!!!

Good info is appearing.....

That's 2 of us....LOL.

Trans controller is same as XJ. Do you really need the brake valve stuff?

I'm thinking you'll be fine from C100 out to the engine bay. I've got a c100 to engine bay harness removed from an 87 4.0 Cherokee out in the garage. How can I help?

Actually to reduce the fuel pump noise, not extend it's life. That's surprising, because I wouldn't consider the pump very quiet even with that resistor in place. Usually manufacturers will reduce power (Voltage) to the pump to slow it down when fuel demand is low to prevent excessive fuel heating and extend pump life. I can see it making the pump quieter since it's not working as hard though, so it makes sense. If your pump is noisy with the resistor, it shouldn't be. There was a TSB issued in 1987 that had us guys putting the ballast resistors on the early models built without it, SOLELY to address customer complaints about noise.

Keep us in the loop, and if you have any questions, post them up.

Not a bad swap. Make sure you have the aluminum spacer with it.

Actually to reduce the fuel pump noise, not extend it's life.

Measure the voltage going in with it running and the output voltage at the other end.

I have never replaced a booster due to failure. Only to upgrade. They generally fail when a leaking master cylinder is ignored and brake fluid gets into the booster as a result.

76 FSJ with a 401 13 MJs as demos at the dealership. 85 J-10 new as a demo 86 MJ and 90 MJ as personal vehicles.

WJ versus 95 to 96 XJ booster Actually, the WJ booster is in some ways easier than the 95 to 96 XJ. I've done both. XJ, you don't have to mess with the firewall. No big deal anyway. But, you have to move the washer reservoir. And, once the original booster comes out, the bracket inside the cab moves and makes it a bear to install the new booster. WJ you have to bend or cut the firewall lip, but don't move the washer bottle. As an added bonus, the mounting studs of the WJ booster are a bit smaller and it's easier to get in. Another bonus with the WJ is that it has FLEXIBLE lines from the master cylinder that make putting things together MUCH easier. And, WJ boosters are newer and easier to find…..

Like a good ending to a bedtime story!! Thanks for the update. get to work on those tips!!

Ok so I bought a new TPS and just put it in the truck. I then started the truck and it started up perfect and idled fine. when I went to go drive it, it sputterd right away while I was in reverse. but still kept it's idle. It went into drive fine and as i gassed it and it cut out and died right away. The truck started back up and I put it in reverse so I can make it back in my drive way. It cut out really bad and died but I was able to coast back in the drive way. When I tried to start it up again it didn't start at all. I checked the full pressure and it was good but other than that i'm lost because the truck will turn over but not get a good spark. any help would be great. trying to fix it because its my dd and I need it to run before I go to school. Slow down a bit here. Did you adjust the TPS per my instructions? Have you ever performed a throttle body cleaning? How long since new plugs, wires, cap and rotor? Engine vacuum harness intact? Intake manifold bolts loosened up? Also, I would click on my link below and perform Tips 1 through 5 before chasing any more rabbits down the trails. Hello thanks for responding. I have not adjusted the TPS yet, been away from the truck for few days. I have never cleaned the throttle body, but changed the the rotor, cap, and plugs about 6 months ago and only have like 1,000 miles on it. I just replace the vacuum harness about 3 month, and I have not yet checked the intake manifold bolts if they were loose or tight. Thanks for the information and ill let you know hoe things go. No plug wires? They are part of the secondary ignition system and carry a high load. Factory recommended every 60,000 miles. We replaced them at the dealer every 30,000 miles because they tended to fail before 60,000 miles and irritate customers. What if the coil wire or others has small brakes in that graphite coated string inside? Thanks for that helpful advise, good to know. Today I cleaned the throttle body and put on the IAC that I had just bought. I then started the truck and it started great so I drove it down the street and came to a stop with out stalling. I drove a little farther and turned around and noticed it was hesitating from taking off from a stop but would not stall. I started to drive it back home and I came to an abrupt stop and then the truck died. The truck usually starts back up but this time it would not start at all. I decided to unplug the coil wire and plug it back in and the truck started right back up. so I drove it back to the house and right before the drive way it dies again while slowing down. I decided to just replace the plug wires because the coil wire seemed bad. I just replaced the wires and it started right back up. I drove it around the block once and then I came to an abrupt stop, it didn't stall but it sputterd. I then came to another stop and it dies, but will start right back up. So the problem seems to be improving but it's still there. It now dies when coming to an abrupt stops, and it seems to be stalling now when the truck is starting to reach operating temperature. Thanks again for the help. My Tip 4 should not be overlooked. After reviewing this thread, a question comes to mind. Did we not strongly suggest you perform my Tips 1 through 5 thoroughly? Coulda missed that with suggestions of sensors to replace right off the bat.....

http://comancheclub.com/topic/33662-refurbishing-the-fuel-sender/

Ok so I bought a new TPS and just put it in the truck. I then started the truck and it started up perfect and idled fine. when I went to go drive it, it sputterd right away while I was in reverse. but still kept it's idle. It went into drive fine and as i gassed it and it cut out and died right away. The truck started back up and I put it in reverse so I can make it back in my drive way. It cut out really bad and died but I was able to coast back in the drive way. When I tried to start it up again it didn't start at all. I checked the full pressure and it was good but other than that i'm lost because the truck will turn over but not get a good spark. any help would be great. trying to fix it because its my dd and I need it to run before I go to school. Slow down a bit here. Did you adjust the TPS per my instructions? Have you ever performed a throttle body cleaning? How long since new plugs, wires, cap and rotor? Engine vacuum harness intact? Intake manifold bolts loosened up? Also, I would click on my link below and perform Tips 1 through 5 before chasing any more rabbits down the trails. Hello thanks for responding. I have not adjusted the TPS yet, been away from the truck for few days. I have never cleaned the throttle body, but changed the the rotor, cap, and plugs about 6 months ago and only have like 1,000 miles on it. I just replace the vacuum harness about 3 month, and I have not yet checked the intake manifold bolts if they were loose or tight. Thanks for the information and ill let you know hoe things go. No plug wires? They are part of the secondary ignition system and carry a high load. Factory recommended every 60,000 miles. We replaced them at the dealer every 30,000 miles because they tended to fail before 60,000 miles and irritate customers. What if the coil wire or others has small brakes in that graphite coated string inside?

Ok so I bought a new TPS and just put it in the truck. I then started the truck and it started up perfect and idled fine. when I went to go drive it, it sputterd right away while I was in reverse. but still kept it's idle. It went into drive fine and as i gassed it and it cut out and died right away. The truck started back up and I put it in reverse so I can make it back in my drive way. It cut out really bad and died but I was able to coast back in the drive way. When I tried to start it up again it didn't start at all. I checked the full pressure and it was good but other than that i'm lost because the truck will turn over but not get a good spark. any help would be great. trying to fix it because its my dd and I need it to run before I go to school. Slow down a bit here. Did you adjust the TPS per my instructions? Have you ever performed a throttle body cleaning? How long since new plugs, wires, cap and rotor? Engine vacuum harness intact? Intake manifold bolts loosened up? Also, I would click on my link below and perform Tips 1 through 5 before chasing any more rabbits down the trails. Hello thanks for responding. I have not adjusted the TPS yet, been away from the truck for few days. I have never cleaned the throttle body, but changed the the rotor, cap, and plugs about 6 months ago and only have like 1,000 miles on it. I just replace the vacuum harness about 3 month, and I have not yet checked the intake manifold bolts if they were loose or tight. Thanks for the information and ill let you know hoe things go. No plug wires?

To me also. Late 60s and early 70s.

Welcome. What year is your Jeep? How did you adjust the TPS? Have you seen my Tips in the link below? 1 through 5 should be completed first. Except 2 if you have an 89 or later. Tip 8 covers TPS setting and Tip 14 covers throttle body adjustment restoring. YOu could also have a bad O2 sensor as previously mentioned.

Ok so I bought a new TPS and just put it in the truck. I then started the truck and it started up perfect and idled fine. when I went to go drive it, it sputterd right away while I was in reverse. but still kept it's idle. It went into drive fine and as i gassed it and it cut out and died right away. The truck started back up and I put it in reverse so I can make it back in my drive way. It cut out really bad and died but I was able to coast back in the drive way. When I tried to start it up again it didn't start at all. I checked the full pressure and it was good but other than that i'm lost because the truck will turn over but not get a good spark. any help would be great. trying to fix it because its my dd and I need it to run before I go to school. Slow down a bit here. Did you adjust the TPS per my instructions? Have you ever performed a throttle body cleaning? How long since new plugs, wires, cap and rotor? Engine vacuum harness intact? Intake manifold bolts loosened up? Also, I would click on my link below and perform Tips 1 through 5 before chasing any more rabbits down the trails.

Where ya headed?