cruiser54

That's what I thought. So there is not voltage regulator between the battery and the starter, the solenoid takes care of that, correct? The aftermarket starter was a Mitsubishi...... So I got a ride home from a friend and gave it a try, got the nasty bad electrical part noise. Had my friend jump to turn it over so I could listen in the engine compartment to confirm the noise came from the starter..... and she turned it once and it started like a dream, six times.... Sheesh! Watch it not start when I get in it to go to work tomorrow morning. When it started the battery read fully charged, so yeah I'm pretty sure it's the starter too. I'll replace it unless anyone else has any other diagnostic tricks for me to try. I still consider my truck more reliable than any of the boyfriends I've had... :rotf: I know how to figure out what's wrong with my truck! Thanks Eagle and ComancheKid 45! Marie, why don't you click on the link in my signature and do Tips 1 through 5? Good preventative maintenance on an old rig and you can avoid issues in the future.

Solder and shrink tube the wires individually.

Thanks for the link.

Stock is okay too. Just no flip lever.

Get a new cap with no flip lever on it. 16 PSI even though stock is 13. See what happens.

Open system is fine. Did the radiator filler just blast off the radiator in one good pop?

If you have a cap on the RADIATOR, you have an open system.

The trans stuff doesn't run near the radiator. It's gotta be there then.

Just run a regular cable, about 4 gauge, from the firewall to the intake manifold where the fuel rail bolts on to it. Isn't there a part number for it in Tip 1?

No pics. Well, some I guess. Like where the TCU is and kinda where it's harness goes? Image Not FoundImage Not Found

I've sold people the stuff to do the swap. You need the TCU and it's harness to make it work. No big deal.

One of my favorites!

been following that actually :) doing the c101 connector now. I replaced the ground strap from the firewall to the engine that post it was on was a pain in the @$$ to get to. I connected the engine end to a post on the firewall. will that work? also the negative lead from the battery to the block had a hole in it, after stripping it back i noticed a ton of oil inside. Probably a large chunk of my problem right there. If you read Tip 1, I think I mention ADDING a ground from the firewall to the intake manifold and cleaning the firewall connection. That braided strap on the back of the head is a bear.

Probably.

Sure it leaks on the floor when it can't get out the plugged tube................

I thought I had read that, but can't find any source for it. When they went to the returnless fuel injection system, the pressures were higher spec. comanche was discontinued years before that.

Look here and clean the tip of the tube out. Image Not Found

Lots of thoughts on that. Click on my link below and do Tips 1 through 5 first. No shortcuts. Clean and shiny like a baby's hiney on all existing ground spots. 18 is for the instrument panel ground upgrade.

What will happen is the heater/defroster function will switch to Defroster only when under a load.

That's a lot of diagrams. Can't just fix the short that's there, or just rewire the trailer plug?

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LOL.

Just because the pump makes noise, does not indicate it's providing the proper fuel pressure to the injectors.

It's so easy, at least on the Renix models. Rid yourself of vacuum lines running behind the battery and getting eaten by acid. Image Not Found

Figured as much. Tip 22 in my write-ups covers the vacuum lines, including part numbers, and here's a diagram for you. Image Not Found