cruiser54

87 4.0 auto longbed column shift. Very rough.

Well from under the hood I can't hear anything bad, sounds pretty normal, but from inside the cab, like around the pedals area, it sound like a "hizz", that only dissapears when I step on the brake, and I can ever hear it dimishing as I step on brakes harder. The truck stil stops and everything, but Imma go check the valve and the groomet. And if its not that, time to upgraxe to 95-96xj brake booster right?Actually 99 to 2004 WJ booster/master swap has more advantages.Is it still bolt on? Or I have to adapt it?Easier than the 95 to 96 and more readily available.As in everything, you are probably correct, following ur advice.Thanks cruiser! I've done booster conversions using 95/96 and 99 to 2004 Grand Cherokee. Prefer the latter.

Well from under the hood I can't hear anything bad, sounds pretty normal, but from inside the cab, like around the pedals area, it sound like a "hizz", that only dissapears when I step on the brake, and I can ever hear it dimishing as I step on brakes harder. The truck stil stops and everything, but Imma go check the valve and the groomet. And if its not that, time to upgraxe to 95-96xj brake booster right?Actually 99 to 2004 WJ booster/master swap has more advantages.Is it still bolt on? Or I have to adapt it? Easier than the 95 to 96 and more readily available.

You can't tell. The reason is that the CPS is fooling the ECU. The timing light measures the pulse fire on #1 cylinder based on TDC. Don't matter what happens before it gets there. So, no one has bothered to do a before and after timing test? Gotcha. I'm referring to what the factory tester sees.

You can't tell. The reason is that the CPS is fooling the ECU.

And Inspector Cleauseau.

CTS can be tested easily. Do it.

Gives it a bit more zip. We Renix guys have knock sensors to compensate for any potential ping.

Or your injectors are leaking when off. Get a set of 746 Volvo injectors from Programbo on cherokee forum.

Well from under the hood I can't hear anything bad, sounds pretty normal, but from inside the cab, like around the pedals area, it sound like a "hizz", that only dissapears when I step on the brake, and I can ever hear it dimishing as I step on brakes harder. The truck stil stops and everything, but Imma go check the valve and the groomet. And if its not that, time to upgraxe to 95-96xj brake booster right? Actually 99 to 2004 WJ booster/master swap has more advantages.

Most of the Siemens junk is now made in you-know-where. Yeah. The PC307s were made in France.

if this is factory I thought this was the fix for tip #6, to remove the single wire and connect the two sets of wires together, which appears to have already been done? Should I just heat this up, push in some solder, and wrap it all back up? I would solder it. Yes. I have found some different configurations since I did the write-up on my wife's 88 Cherokee.

They run hot like 4.0s, but worse. Looky what I saw yesterday: Image Not FoundImage Not Found

The PC307s from Rockauto were made by Siemens and had the factory part number.

Going after it, aren't you? LOL. Great pics!!

Metal bracket loose in the vise a bit with the plastic part just resting on top of the vise.

Those seals seal air from entering the manifold more than fuel exiting it. Your Renix injectors leak fuel because they're of poor design.

Probably best to isolate the source of the hiss first. Pinpoint it. That said, your booster or the one-way check valve in the rubber grommet is bad.

That's factory. Dealership/factory never addrssed this issue.

It will be a week or two until I have the engine running to make sure it won't leak . Thanks for all the replies/ help . That would be fine as would be shortening the bushing so the sender projected out past the end of it. Either way. Pipe threads naturally seal as they are tapered. I wish I had my son in law's Jeep here.......

Plumbing/hardware store.

I think there's some good non-petroleum based stuff out there.

Oil Eater?

That's pipe thread, also known as NPT. You need a bushing from 3/8 NPT to 1/8 NPT. Common as belly buttons.

that braided cable is pretty weak at the other end, probably not doing much, can I just cut that cable off and not mess with the head bolt and just have the #4 wire to the intake heatshield bolt and nothing else? One less wire in there and it's took screwed up to be helping much. Sure. No worries.