cruiser54

Did you check the CPS output after the mod?

Nah......Dakota baby was why.

87 to 90 is the correct spline count.

And the wires that get melted on the exhaust manifold include oxygen sensor... You can unplug the O2, CTS, and knock sensors, fish the harness up by the power steering pump. Then remove the split loom and see what ya got.

Ever done this? http://cruiser54.com/?p=35

Perfect.

You SHOULD be good. Easy enough to check. Renix has multiple voids in the tone ring with some being bigger than others. HO has voids and then solid areas. This can easily be viewed by removing the inspection plate on the bell housing. Still, test the CPS. I had a real weird issue on the MJ I just bought.

No worries. Being on 4 forums, moderator on one, and maintaining my own website spreads me a bit thin. Coming up with new write-ups and prioritizing them is an ongoing project. How about documenting steps and procedures and making photo comparisons. Not to mention working a full time job, parting out Jeeps, flipping Jeeps, and babysitting small granddaughters. Little bitty details are hard to keep up with. Forgive me if I can't keep up with every intricate detail. I do my best to help the Jeep community as far as Renix stuff. Perceived $#!&storm or no, please forgive me if I can't keep up with each and every person and their intimate details. Take from it what you wish.

No sir, I have not. I will do that in the morning for sure. I was wondering about the distance from flywheel measurement, and whether having the 89 CPS in the 98 bell housing might somehow increase the distance from the flywheel. I'm going to slot those holes tomorrow also, just to make sure I get a good signal. Thanks for the advice, I will report back with my results. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk Good plan. Keep us in the loop.

Have you tested the CPS output per this? http://cruiser54.com/?p=50

Which flywheel did you use? The 98 will not be compatible with the Renix system.

That wasn't directed to the OP or desbennett004. Go back four posts and read it again........... :shake: Too much bull$#!& here. Yep. Just eating an elephant....one bite at a time. :rotfl2: Whatever. Are we here to help people or get into a pissing contest? Egocentric bull$#!& or contributing to the community?

This thread has become so contaminated with bull$#!& it's hard to tell any more. I'd love to help. A bad knock sensor will not cause major driveability issues. Let's get back to basics like what the problem is.

That wasn't directed to the OP or desbennett004. Go back four posts and read it again........... :shake: Too much bull$#!& here.

Sometimes this stuff is like eating an elephant....one bite at a time.It feels like my problem is timing, it's popping and backfiring, like the timing is retarded even though it idles fine. My question is, what could cause that? If my knock sensor was bad/disconnected/damaged, would it retard the timing to that extent? Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk If you had a knock sensor, which you don't according to Hornbrod, since you have an HO, you need to check your fuel pressure.

Just got mine yesterday and mine also goes to 4.98V and open loop at idle, it fluctuates within the 2 volt range during cruising from what I've been able to see. It wills lowly begin climbing to 4.98V at a red light if I'm idling long enough :hmm: Probably bad O2 sensor or heater relay. Use NTK only.

Sometimes this stuff is like eating an elephant....one bite at a time.

It should be!!

:hmm: Turned to crap overnight? Ya lol but just figured it out. Map sensor vacuum hose came out lol plugged her in and she's perfThis post saved me $45. Was just about to order a new CPS, checked the vacuum line going to the MAP sensor. It was broken. Thanks! Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk Pretty common. Here's something to look at: http://cruiser54.com/?p=280

I have JK shocks on 2 XJs and 3 MJs in the family, and have installed them on 3 other XJs. Nice shocks!!!!!

Snag the bench just for the brackets.

Check your CPS output: http://cruiser54.com/?p=50 Go here and do Tips 1 through 4. www.cruiser54.com

That little plastic thing is a disaster waiting to happen. HCV Removal The heat is controlled by the blend air door. I've eliminated at least 10 of them here in Arizona and my AC always works perfectly. Actual field experience has proven time and time again, by numerous different people, that there is NO downside to eliminating the HCV.. It flat works. Period. The other benefits are keeping coolant flowing versus being stagnant in the heater core and the dangers/disastrous results of having a valve fail unexpectedly whether you're poking around the engine bay or driving down the highway or trail.

Well, I'm in Arizona!!! LOL. I have found that if the blend door is properly adjusted, there is no heat in the cab. I also like the fact that stuff is moving and not stagnating in the heater core for a lot of the year.

Okay to do, but not necessary.