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cruiser54

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Everything posted by cruiser54

  1. That's the one!! I've installed a few of them.
  2. Is the ground strap from the firewall to the head intact? If so, still remove it at the firewall and scrape to bare metal and reinstall.
  3. The 87 needs some more ground work first. Grounds and connections spruced up.
  4. The problem existed on new rigs. WTF was Prestolite thinking?
  5. That wasn't the field fix though. It was so simple.. My neighbor got a 75 CJ with the Prestolite ignition and the previous owner had added fender vents and did all sorts of crap to solve the intermittent stalling.Nothing worked. He asked me what I knew about it and I gave him the solution from the "igwire" campaign. Hasn't died since. There are 2 wires where the dizzy plugs into the harness. Cut out the plugs and solder the wires together instead. Doesn't even matter if you swap them. .
  6. Does anyone know what the real problem was with intermittent dying and was solved by the service campaign?
  7. Try this: http://cruiser54.com/?p=58
  8. Since you have an 88, go to www.cruiser54.com and complete Tips 1 through 5. How did you determine the TPS is bad? You know it is adjustable, right?
  9. He's the one I learned it from!!
  10. Have you tried another tCU? You might try this. free and easy. http://cruiser54.com/?p=58
  11. You are referring to the power/comfort switch. When set in "comfort" mode the shift points were at a lower RPM and not as crisp. In "power" mode the shift points were raised to a higher RPM and shifts were a bit firmer. Most of us just set the switch in "power" mode and forget it. The HO change you are referring to was simply the elimination of the switch, and hard-wiring it to the "power" setting. If you have the switch (and it works), you don't need to "upgrade" anything, or change your TCU. Just flip the switch. I think you're on to something!! Power mode and TV cable adjustment should be done first. The Power/Comfort switches are known for failing. Here is an alternative: http://cruiser54.com/?p=435
  12. Probably is it. but the ground for the O2 sensor or it's relay can be a contributor. I would perform Tips 1,3,4, and 5 first. Then test the O2 sensor. Should you decide to change it, use only NGK/NTK
  13. False info. 88 to 90 TCUs are pretty much the same 7 was the oddball. The 91 TCU plugs in,but the wiring is different. Don't do it. Ever done this?
  14. Is the ground strap from the firewall to the head intact? If so, still remove it at the firewall and scrape to bare metal and reinstall.
  15. I ended up using a Wrangler cable. https://www.quadratec.com/products/55200_02.htm
  16. Agree. Fix the leaks. See the link below. http://cruiser54.com/?p=96 As for engines, see this link: http://cruiser54.com/?p=100
  17. Yep. 1974. Prestolite. Very problematic but the fix was found and came out in a TSB.
  18. excellent idea. This may help also and certainly won't hurt. http://cruiser54.com/?p=110
  19. The ground "looked" good behind the taillight? Did you remove it and scrape paint off under it? This may help also: http://cruiser54.com/?p=249
  20. Great!! which wire?
  21. With a meter , check for voltage at the POS terminal of the battery. Then, go to the large nut/stud on the relay. Power there? If so, probe the spade terminals of the relay. Also check for voltage at the starter cable.
  22. Yep. Click on the link in Gene's post.
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