cruiser54

Just saying. For as much as you bash Renix, you sure seem to defend that braking system which is kludgy. I can just envision some Renault engineer developing it. Probably consulted with Bendix engineers.

Yup. Ignored. Only by those who haven't tried it. No empirical evidence. I don't need to imagine. I've tried it both ways. The distro block restricts the living $#!& out of the front brakes. Been there and done that. All in a progressive manner to monitor changes. If the front brakes can get the volume and pressure of fluid they need, the rear brakes don't lock with or without a load. Talk about kludgy. That's this whole $#!&ty LSV setup.

Problem here is there is no oring inside an MJ distribution valve. The proportioning is all handled at the rear LSV in the stock system. The stock "prop valve" is a simple pass through block on an MJ with the standard shuttle to activate the trouble light in the event of an imbalance.The Oring mentioned would be found where the MJ has the secondary rear circuit feed. On an XJ, ZJ, YJ this would be where the metering valve would be found. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Yup. The best way to do it is largely ignored on this forum.

Along with inspecting those hoses, verify that your intake manifold bolts are snug.

Excellent thought Gene!

Just drive it. I've driven mine 8 miles to the muffler shop. Doesn't hurt the Jeep at all.

He's talking torque converter, not trans to transfer case.

Intake is hanging on the dowels. take it off and file it to fit with the exhaust manifold.

Well, if you ever dealt with it in person, you would realize it's not as bad as you think. It's actually very reliable, quite forgiving and easy to understand. Correct. The Renix rigs in MJ form highly outnumber the HO models. Mine all run great and rarely require any work. If people would just do Tips 1 through 5 completely and without cutting corners right off the bat, their Renix experience would be lovely.

I've been wondering, with all the Renix hate/sarcasm coming from your corner.

Wow! So impressive........... I'm not trying to impress anyone, just provide facts, things I saw and did in the day. Things that folks are guessing and wondering about. What the @#$% is your problem with me and Renix stuff anyway. It's getting @#$%ing old @#$%ing fast. I don't NEED to be here ya know.......

53005085 from Crown or Amazon

You could add it without getting a "package". Simple. I ordered at least 10 of them.

Exactly^^^^!!

Anything else quit working at the same time? Like turn signals, radio etc?

Mine's a 91 and has 3 wires. Red, black and green. I assume the green is the ground. Can I just make a new ground connection with that wire? The 91 blower motor connector has only two wires, BLK and GRN. BLK is the ground wire. and, it doesn't really need the ground upgrade anyway.

I need to check my PB account. What are they doing?

On Renix Jeeps, it's always a good idea to add another ground per the following Tip: http://cruiser54.com/?p=211

Yup. Always check the sensor ground circuit per Tip 5 first, but odds are the tPS is taking a dump.

I understood ZJ boosters didn't work.

Yes. MAP measures load via vacuum. I'm not sure. Seems to be the M.O. of a failing TPS. Unplug the tPS and see if the idle ever flares.

Your TPS is likely bad and/or has a poor ground. Do Tip 5 at www.cruiser54.com and report back. Are you saying the IAC is not related at all? If the TPS is giving more fuel to the engine than it should be, I understand the idle might be a little higher, but there is hardly any air getting into the engine, I'm surprised the idle skyrockets like it does. TPS tells ECU throttle is open. IAC pulls back. This is a very common issue. That's why you do Tip 5 to check the TPS and other sensor grounds.

Yeah. Pedal will be a bit lower is all.

The ones I did it on were not beauty queens. I did the 95 to 96 set up on my white one. I