omega_rugal

yes, the ecu is just controlling the ignition now, no fuel pump, no fuel rail, nothing gasoline related...

that part goes to the air box doesn`t it? i can`t remember, mine fell apart months ago...

yes it`s a Renix of course but if it works without it? the FI is not even conected... interesting, i could use that advance....

While doing some cleaning on the MJ`s 4.0 accidently i broke the coolant temp sensor... ups my bad... the truck works but still the ECU is blind to the actual coolant temp, i read the EFI manual and says that the coolant temp alters the timing of the spark but ti doesn say how, cool or Hot = advance or retard? i`m confused... it also alters the inyection timing but is irrelevant, LPG only from now on... any ideas?

get a 2.5l Dakota and rip it apart, you`ll get an AX15 with it...

i hate the Dakota, it`s the reason the comanche was axed... i`ll be glad to take out its heart (2.5l) and put it in my MJ someday now seriusly, MJs tail lights are near extinct these days, anybody knows a suitable replacemente? not a bolt on but some that need less hacking?

they are old inyectors, i think i`ll just unplug the harness for now, even if they get dirty, they need a good cleaning anyway... with gas prices going thorugh the roof as we speak, the only chance i may burn gas again would be if the LPG breaks down while away home, as a last resort to bring the truck back...

whoa, i never though of that... better take them off, any idea about how to plug the holes?

now that my MJ runs on LPG with no problem, i am not sure if i should disconect the inyectors, i don`t want to ruin them just in case i need to go back to gasoline, what do you guys think?

you regain a few HP that the emissions steal... a clean up the mess of hoses and stuff... all comanches are at least 25 years old, not so many on the road anyway, some pollution is not going to hurt anyone... just kidding...

the ball is for the vacuum operated stuff (ac controls and such, 4x4 engament on some models) you can remove it and leave only the MAP sensor and fuel pressure regulator conected but then anything that is vacuum actuated won`t work the charcoal canister can be removed but you will be smelling gasoline all day, not good thing to do while driving

i have a Renix remove the EGR pipes and associated components, mine runs better without it

i doubt it, the RAM covers the pick up segment...

i`m having lumbar fusion at L4-L5-S1 next month.... consider yourself lucky...

I was using the the hoses that go to the heater but that part of the hood is too crowded, since i ditched the air box the reducer sits there...here winter is not that hash, hardly ever goes below 4 degrees C, during the test runs it was like 10 degrees and even so the reducer just got a little cold and yes i plan to put a small pump to keep coolant flowing if it fails i will try to put the reducer back where it was, a pain in the @$$ i try to avoid...

i want to run coolant throu it to keep the lpg reducer warm, so far i have been using it dry, it works it hasn`t freeze but does get really cold after 20 mins or so... why i run it dry? well, because i was tuning it, the reducer is "one of those" that have the knobs inside, so i had to take it apart for every adjustment, plugging hoses and refilling the coolant everytime was drving me crazy...now is working fine, starts smooth as silk, idles good and develops full power underload (except for that damn unadjustable timing) for the tuning i wasn`t running the engine for long periods so freezing was not an issue, no is ready to hit the streets..

i know, since coolant doesn`t leak thou there... actually i want to heat up something, not cool it, that would be easier...

sooo those run through the coolant? mmm interesting...

after i installed the new radiator on the MJ i noticed two unused plugs, a threaded cooper one and one that can fit a hose, are those mean for an auto transmission? isn`t the trans cooler a separate radiator?

i don`t think so...

well, i don`t know, drop the starter, wire it to a good battery and make sure it turns as it should, he says the ignition switch is new but is it really working? mine has to be turned and pushed really hard sometimes to make good contact, he has an auto tranny, is the neutral switch really working? the problems seems very straight forward to me...

ignition switch <-> Starter/Solenoid...

update: problem almost solved as i suspected, the reducer was not suppling enough vapours to start properly, too much dirt and greasy deposits were both clogging the lpg line, the lack of power under load improved enough to drive, no more stalls, i can say it`s running at 90%, now if i can do the CPS mod i could in theory reach a near 100% under most conditions which for me is a success for my first Renix to LPG conversion... and with gasoline prices going through the roof in 2017... oh and the truck doesn`t even have a gas tank now so forget what i originally posted...

sinc ethe rpoblem come and goes by itself, can be as bad as a failing starter and/or solenoid or as simple as a ignition switch makign fun of you.... you can start there...

finally got some free time to work on the MJ... yes the fan was rotating backwards, whoever changed the belt deserves a kick in the nuts, running cool at last, and the fan clutch was stuck too, now works as it should...