LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW

As far as the torque convertor lock goes. Solenoid 3 is unique, in that it only controls torque converter lock functions. The TCU is programmed to force torque convertor lockup when engine RPMS's are above a certain point (not sure exactly what RPM though?), and you're at wide open throttle (WOT). Why? easy, top speed. The AW4's torque convertor has a very high stall speed (translates to high torque multiplication factor, and higher RPM off the line).

Rusty's 4.5" MJ leafs are for SUO, not SOA. If you ran the 4.5" leafs SOA you'd be at like 11" of lift in the rear...

Abso friggin' loutely!! I didn't know freakin' liberals owned tire stores!!! None of there frikin' business what they are for or off of. There business is selling mounting and installing tires. You have work for them. Tell them to just mount the tires and STFU. :eek: :D :roll: :brows: CW In a sue-happy society I understand 120% why they will not do it. It keeps prices down as well, as the companies do not have to pay out the butt for insurance policies that cover things like this. I take it you've never owned your own business before? Heck I run 27 wireless stores and I'll FIRE anyone of my 150 employee's if they touch a customer's phone from another carrier. Why? Because we've had issues in the past with customer's accusing us of doing things. Policy's get set into affect for reasons like this; and I'm assuming the same thing has happened with the tire companies. If you can't/won't bolt up your own tires than you have no right running the larger size in my opinion. I think the debate here should be why your lazy to pick up 4 tires and tighten down 20 bolts and not why a company won't do it for ya.. And to the OP (mini beast), no offense for not wanting to do it in the cold weather. I understand as it's been 0* here the past week as well.

Check to see how many bolts hold the TB on. 3 = Renix 4 = HO

For $800 you've almost paid to do a budget 4.6L stroker that would net in the 260HP plus range. I'm just getting back to the fact of bang for your buck. You can disagree (and thats fine); however I see for the money keeping the 4.0L and putting money into it (stroker) is a better option than swapping in a 3.8L. As I've stated prior, for the money you'd have in the 3.8L swap you can build up your 4.0L and it will have more HP than the 3.8L does and you don't have to worry about doing a motor swap and everything associated with it. I am just trying to point out that the 3.8L is not any better than a 4.0L in the respect of HP and TQ; not to mention you just spent $800 to get the same numbers. ;) Now I understand why you did the 3.8L swap, as the 4.0 won't fit in the engine bay (at least I couldn't get one in my '86 when I tried) due to the firewall. I opted for the same thing you did and was happy with the results. I used a 3.8L out of a '99 Lingenfelter Camero. It was the 1st (and last) 3.8L swap into a Jeep Lingenfelter's ever did (I worked there at the time). Ok maybe the company wanted nothing to do with it, but myself and another guy in the shop did it on company time in the shop. :D Yes I know the 3.8L is a good base, I worked at Lingenfelter's for 3 years and know what they are capable of. However we're talking more $$$ again... I'm not going to argue about it any further. Just calling it the way I see it...

you do know that my 3.8 outperforms your 4.0 in every way shape and form right? hp, torque, gas mileage, you name it. not to mention that for about $450 I can supercharge it with 14 pounds of boost. try and get that kind of performance and bang for buck out of your 4.0. come on, I dare you. I replaced a 2.8 with it btw Stock 3.8L = 200 HP @ 5,200 rpm, 225 ft lb , @ 4,000 rpm: Stock 4.0L HO = 190 hp @ 4750 rpm, 220 ft lb @ 4,000 rpm (updated in 96-01 to 225 ft lb torque @ 3000 rpm) Man that sure is BLOWING it away... The 4.0L makes more torque in a lower powerband than the 3.8L does (ie. better for offroad/wheeling applications). The money involved in swapping the 3.8L into your XJ/MJ I can put into doing simple upgrades (header, exhaust, bored TB, intake manifold off a '00-'01) and have more HP than the 3.8L... And YES I have swapped the 3.8L into an MJ; as replacing the 2.8 as you did...

The injectors were not changed between '87 and '88. The renix era 4,0L used the same injector among all years. And just for reference, the following is a list of the injectors used on the 4.0L since 1987 along with their rated static flow: Model Year Part Number Color Fuel Pressure Static Flow 1987-1990 53003956 Black 39psi 18.6lb/hr 1991-1993 33007127 Brown 39psi 21.0lb/hr 1994-1995 53030343 Tan 39psi 21.0lb/hr 1996-1999 53030778 Grey 49psi 23.2lb/hr 1999-2006 04854181 Blue Tip 49psi 22.5lb/hr The injector flow rate varies as the square root of the pressure drop across the injector. The stock '91-'95 4.0 injectors are rated at 22lb/hr @ 43psi fuel pressure, so at 39psi they flow ( sq. rt.(39/43) x 22.0 = 21.0 ).

How is he remaning them? (ie. what method is being used to clean them?)

You couldn't pay me to pull the 4.0L and replace it with the 3.8. Now if we're talking the 4banger in place of the 3.8 than we have another story. However since the OP has a 4.0L I'll stand by my above comment. ;) I really thought about doing a V8 in my XJ, however the cost involved in doing it was just not realistic at the time. I built a very strong high HP stroker for less than I would of had in the V8 swap. It's been discussed a lot among other forums and it keeps coming down to $ vs. HP. The stroker just is more bang for your buck in the long run...

I'd take an auto anyday in my MJ over a 4spd or 5spd. A day on the trails pushing your clutch in and shifting gets old FAST. By the end of the day my left foot flat out hurts.

Why's that?

I disagree with CW to some extent... Let me start off saying that I run 35's on my MJ that is TRAIL ONLY, so it does not see the road. I've driven it on the road a few times to move it from home to storage, and it's done fine. I run 35" Maxxis Bighorns, and they measure out at 34.8", so as close to a 35 as your going to get. I'm running them with 4.10 gears and yes, I do have the 2.5L in her. She does VERY well offroad on the trails (as several can attest to on here who've wheeled with me) and I've never felt like it was under-powered for what I use it for. Thats a bold statement coming from me; the guy who's got almost 400HP in his XJ... Honestly it really depends on what your going to be using your Jeep for. If it will be a daily driver than look into gearing it in the correct power band. If it's not a DD and you'll just be using it for weekend trips around town and the trail than don't worry about it and drive it how it is. I run 35's (Maxxis again) on my XJ and have NOT re-geared and drive it to and fro from whereever I wheel it. Yes I only get 10-12MPG but thats due to the motor, not the 35's. I actually get better milage with the 35's than I did with the 31's. So take that for what it's worth... Anyways, here's a few pics of my MJ with the Motion Offroad 6.5" lift and 35's. First 4 are while I was building it, so ignore the fact that the frame is still red and that the shocks are not connected... More pics can be found on the trail here: GLXJ Summer Fest - http://www.greatlakesxj.com/photogaller ... index.html GLXJ Fall Crawl - http://www.greatlakesxj.com/photogaller ... index.html

As Wade stated I got married mid-December, so that has had an effect on things. Not to mention a move in there, and just a lot of other stuff going on. We've wheeled it at 2 GLXJ events, and took it to a Jeep Jambo and it's done very well everywhere. Photo's from those GLXJ events can be found here: GLXJ Summer Fest - http://www.greatlakesxj.com/photogaller ... index.html GLXJ Fall Crawl - http://www.greatlakesxj.com/photogaller ... index.html So to answer your question, have not done anything but enjoy it wheeling. Have a few more upgrades to do yet, but at the moment it's done well just the way it is.

To my knowledge their is no adjustable tracbar on the market for a stock height XJ or MJ.

She's to busy driving her own XJ. :D At least I let my wife drive a Jeep, unlike you who takes it away from her. :nuts: OT: I figured out what rims your talking about....

Not on my MJ, but on my XJ... I really can't see it while driving, it hasn't been an issue yet as far as blocking the view...

My wife and my daughter at our wedding last month... And if it means anything, she drives a lifted XJ. And yes, I have a Jeep as my desktop on my work PC. ;)

You may want to double check that. I'm 120% sure that my 2.5L 4 speed has 4.10 gears in it from the factory...

3.07 was only found on manual tranny equipped 4.0L's. Now XJ axle's are a totally different story, as their were a few additional axle ratio's found in them...

And just for reference. 3.07 - used with 4.0L engine / manual transmission 3.55 - used with 4.0L engine / automatic transmission 4.10 - used with 2.5L engine usually (not always, but 90% of the time) 4.56 - rare but can be found on some older (~ 89 ~) models with 2.5L engine and auto transmission

Probably 3.55 That fast enough for ya? :D

Probably 4.10

I run 27" long one's in the front and a 20" long one in the rear and I think I have enough for 10" of lift and longarms. I've had to strap them up. But I'd rather them be to long than not long enough. Got them here: http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... ucts_id=10

I can't get this to load, I get the "Sorry, that URL does not exist on this server. " error. Give me a few mins and I will put it up on my server.

Just for reference here is the measurements that you should be at with your control arms for a 6" lift. 6" LCA - 17" UCA - 15½" And I noticed your post about a drop pitman arm.... You should never have to use a drop pitman arm. DPAs should ONLY be used if you're lowering the trackbar mount on the frame, or raising it on the axle, otherwise it will CAUSE bumpsteer. The whole belief that you need a drop pitman arm with a lift has been perpetuated from the days of leaf sprung vehicles without trackbars. On these vehicles you wanted to keep the angle of the draglink as flat as possible to minimize bumpsteer. On vehicles with a trackbar, you want to keep the draglink as parallel to the trackbar as possible to minimize bumpsteer. With a DPA, your making it worse. A dropped pitman arm will also increase the amount of torque/axial loading on the shaft your steering box experiences.