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Expensive little ba$tards! http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... cts_id=271

The DME (ecu) in the XJ/MJ can NOT be flashed. The emprom is not writable. To do anything your going to have to run a standalone setup.

Last I knew Dan's been trying to sell his buggy. I think it's been sold...

Block casting numbers. 1987-90 - 53005535 (8933002665) 1991-95 - 53008405 1996-98 - 53020569 1999-04 - 53010449 Head casting numbers. 1987-90 - 2686 1991-95 - 7120 1996-98 - 0630 1999-04 - 0331

My vote is for the one's that collapse. We recently got some from our local Jeep dealer for an event and several of us put them in our glovebox for when where on the on the trails. They don't take up any room, as opposed to the flat bottom one's.

I've used DHL before they were DHL (Airborne Express). In all the years I've ever used them I've only had an issue with them 1 time; and it was an international shippment. Cheapest by far (almost 30% cheaper than FedEx or UPS), faster than any of them, and they don't complain about large packages (I shipped a BMW motor in a wooden box via ground shipment and never heard a word about it). I do have an account with UPS, FedEx, as well as USPS; however 9 times out of 10 I use DHL.

Not everyone wants to hack their fenders and cares about having 10 feet of uptravel. Uptravel really is didly-sqaut in just about everything but pre-running/desert racing. This is my wife's DD and she is just as anal about her stuff as I am. She wants to have flares so bumpstoping was the solution as she does wheel her rig as well. Your basing that statement on what? Your hacked fenders? Their are way to many variables to make a statement like that. It depends on the width of the tire/offset of the rim. It depends on if the fenders are trimmed. It depends on the length of the control arms and how centered the axle is under the wheel opening. As I stated in the original post the only way to know what you need is to flex it out and measure. I've seen way to may people loose pucks using silicone. Also I'd rather use a bolt so I can easily adjust them down the road if I wanted to. It's easier to undo a bolt, add or take away a puck and tighten it back down.

Yes that is the top of the factory upper "snubber". They are rubber and squish so it's actually more like 3.5" of UP travel (not down travel). We're running 33's on 3.5" of lift with very minimal trimming. Up travel is not everything when it comes to suspension like some make you believe it is. EDIT: Here is a pic of the wife's XJ with 33's on 3.5" of lift.

Hey that's my Jeep! :D They arn't "homemade; they are BRX hoses.

If I recall I gave you so some stuff the 1st event you were at... :razz:

GLXJ is hosting it's 3rd Annual Spring Fling on Satruday May 24th at Redbird SRA in Dugger Indiana. ALL JEEPS ARE WELCOME!!! Admission to Redbird is $10 per person. Entry fee allows you to be at the park during thier hours of operations; 9AM - 5PM. You can visit the Redbird website at http://www.redbirdsra.com To enter the park you also must sign the waiver form. Don't forget to bring your drivers license! Flags are not required, but if you want to run one your more than welcome to. Also PLEASE have some sort of recovery (either front tow hooks, or rear hitch). Also please bring a tow strap (no hooks, looped both ends). We are planning on meeting at the gate/staging area at 9:00 AM. We want to be on the trails by 9:30 since the park does close at 5PM. PLEASE TRY TO BE ON TIME! If you plan on attending please let us know for sure so I can get a head count. I will also note that this is open to GLXJ supporting members as well as non-supporting members. However thier will be several giveaways at this event of items for supporting members only. The giveaways are well worth your member fee's. In the past we've lacked a little on the giveaways; we plan on trying to step it up again for this event. We've got some new vendors that are willing to give some stuff away! Additionally, ANY JEEP's ARE ALLOWED TO WHEEL WITH US (even if not a XJ or MJ). This event is made possible by our sponsors. Be sure to check them out 1st if your looking for a new product or service. You can find more updates on this event on our forum by clicking here: http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/index.spark?forumID=43793&p=3&topicID=15659218 Hope to see you there! Adam Hanson GLXJ President

American Racing made some "replica" Gamblers that had a different offset as well as a larger lip. Here are the AR Gamblers installed on my wife's old XJ. I still have them and they are for sale by the way. :D

You need some bigger tires under that thing! :cheers:

Bumpstops are a very important, and often over looked, part of a properly tuned suspension setup. Bumpstops allow you to maintain control of where the upward travel of your suspension stops and prevents over compression and premature wear to your springs. As you add more lift to your jeep, you need to add more length to your bumpstops. I have found that in most cases, the added length of your bumpstops should equal that of your lift height. For example, if you add 4" of lift, you should add 4" of bumpstop. Now this isn't always the case, but it gets you in the right ball park. The length of your bumpstops is actually a part of an equation consisting of lift height, compressed shock length, tire size, wheel size and backspacing, and amount of trimming on the jeep. The best way to figure bumpstop length is to just get everything together and flex your jeep. Do not figure your bumpstops when your flex has maxed out and tires are rubbing fenders, wheel wells, suspension components, etc. The point of adding bumpstops is to control flex. You want your suspension to stop when you want it to. So we've discussed the importance of having front bumpstops, now the question is where to get them? Many retailers offer front bumpstops, some fixed and than also some that are adjustable. The problem with these is simply the cost. They are very nicely engineered; however the cost is something that is left to be desired. I've used a cheap alternative; hockey pucks. Hockey Pucks are nice, because they are the perfect dimensions to fit inside the coil spring, and are 1" thick, making it easy to figure out how many you need to purchase to get the desired bumpstop settings. The best thing about rubber hockey pucks is the price! So once you've determined how much bumpstoping you need you can determine how many hockey pucks you need for each side. Remember that the hockey pucks are 1" thick, so if you measured 3.5" you'll need to go to 4" (aka 4 hockey pucks). The next step is to get the hardware needed. Go to your local hardware store and get a bolt that is .5" longer than the amount of bumpstops you’re adding. So if you’re adding 4 hockey pucks (aka 4" of bumpstops), you'll want to get a bolt that is 4.5" long. It's also recommended to get STAINLESS bolts/nuts/washers to prevent them for rusting. Along with the bolts/nuts I also got 2 washers. For the top of them I get what’s called a "fender washer" as they are a lot wider. The next step is to drill the hockey pucks in the center to allow the bolt to pass threw them. You'll want to drill the hole just a tad larger than the bolt size to make it easy for the bolt to pass threw them. You need to do this for every hockey puck you'll be adding. Once you have all the holes drilled you can test the bolt threw the holes with the washers and the nut to see how they will work. Now it's time to install your newly made bumpstops in your Jeep. You have a few options to do this. You can remove the springs, or as I did you can install them without removing the springs. If you take your bumpstops apart you will be able to slide the hockey pucks and bolt threw the spring just fine. However first you need to modify your coil buckets. If you look at your coil buckets (the part of the axle that the spring sits on) you'll notice a "dimple" in the center of the bucket. You need to drill this dimple out so that your bolt will fit threw it. Now this is definitely easier to do with the coil out as the "dimple" points down. However with some patience you can drill the hole from underneath. The passenger's side is a bit more difficult as you do have the tracbar mount in the way; so make sure you get a long drill bit to accomplish this task. Once the holes are drilled and you're bolt will fit threw them slide your hockey pucks in place threw the spring and put your bolt with the fender washer on the top threw the them. Now fit the bolt threw the hole you drilled in the coil bucket and put the smaller washer and nut on it. You can now slide a wrench in threw the coil and a socket on the bottom nut and tighten everything down. The nice thing is that these are adjustable, so if you need to add another 1" to your bumpstops you can simply just add another hockey puck and a longer bolt. Same for if you need to take away a hockey puck to gain another 1". It is much easier now to adjust your bumpstops if you change tires, go higher with your lift etc. Total cost was about $20 to do the fronts. The majority of this cost was in the stainless hardware.

And here is Randy's write-up: http://www.myxj.net/tech/jksacos/

http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/JKS_2200.pdf

It's about time Dave! :D Pic must of been taken yesterday, cause their's snow on the ground now! I'll stop by sometime if it's there and see ya.

http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/door_hinge_repair.pdf

Well of course we picked the nicest day in the winter, thus meaning that all the MUD was not frozen anymore. So it was a looonnggg day of wheeling. Overall we had a great time. Only a few major dents, a busted rear window, and some dirty interiors among everyone who attended. We had 10 rigs in total show up; 2 of which were MJ's. Guys from IN, OH, MI, and KY showed up. :brows: My wife (dogwonk) is usually with me and is the one taking all the pics and video's. However since she's 7.5 months preggy she did not make this trip; thus I did not get a lot of quality pics or video. However I used what I had and did make a GLXJ video of this event. It's nothing special but non the less here it is. I have a high-res version you can download and view (please right-click and "save as" to help save bandwidth), and a low-res version you can watch on JeepTV.com. Hi-Res: http://www.greatlakesxj.com/events/Wint ... erFest.wmv Low-Res: http://jeeptv.com/video/4442 I'll post up some pics later. For those of you who are GLXJ members you can see more pics and vids under the "wheeling section" on the forum.

Use this: http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/tech_calcs.html Transmission Gear Ratios Manual Transmissions AX4 - no information (I assume the same as AX5 minus 5th gear) T4 - 4.02 | 2.37 | 1.50 | 1.00 | rev? T5 - 4.02 | 2.37 | 1.50 | 1.00 | 0.76 | rev? BA10/5 - 3.99 | 2.33 | 1.44 | 1.00 | 0.79 | rev? AX5 - 3.93 | 2.33 | 1.45 | 1.00 | 0.85 | 4.72(rev) AX15 - 3.83 | 2.33 | 1.44 | 1.00 | 0.79 | 4.22(rev) NV3550 - 4.01 | 2.32 | 1.40 | 1.00 | 0.78| 3.55(rev) Automatic Transmissions TF904 - 2.45 | 1.45 | 1.00 | rev? 30RH - 2.74 | 1.54 | 1.00 | rev? AW4 - 2.804 | 1.531 | 1.000 | 0.753(OD) | 2.393(rev)

I'm missing a few year FSM's. :cry: I also have been looking for the NP242 service manual (have the 231 though!). But besides that, got just about everything else. :D

Well since I got about 5 PM's of guys wanting to know what happened to the website... I'll assume you were wanting the tech pages... ;) Anyways, problem is fixed and it's back up. Just please remember to "right click" and "save as"; as it helps with the bandwidth. Thanks!

Oh and here is the AW4 Manual... http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/AW4_manual.pdf

http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/TPS.html

Watch this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FoNtR-O0sKU Than watch this: