jimoshel

OK...I see what I was doin wrong. Was holding my calculator upside down. Apparently I need to add a tooth. not remove.

Could I change a 4:11 ratio to a 4:10 by chipping one of the teeth off the gear? :fool:

I've bought complete XJ's with both 44 and 20 and drove them home for less than $500. Prices vary around the country but in this area a good D44 can be picked up for less than $100. Same for the C20.

:agree: Eagle's fast.And good.

Welcome to the :dunce: club. President an head bottle washer.

Axles out of J20's are 8 lug.

Actually the argument , discussion, of strength on some parts gets a little snerdy at times. Anything can be broken. The common knowledge is the frog BA is weak, therefore junk. So how do you explain the the fact I have a '88 XJ with 290K miles and a BA10.on it still goin strong? OK I also have a '87 XJ with 134K with a busted BA. The point is yes some parts are weaker, stronger than others but unless there is some special reason for their use don't be afraid of a 'weak' part. Just don't abuse it. Givin a choice yes, use the stronger piece. Just don't unreasonably reject a weak one.Climbing off soap box.

The C20 is weaker than the D44. The ring gear is larger making it stronger but the housing is narrower and the tubes are smaller, leading to more flex and breaking of shafts. The housing can be re inforced by welding and gusseting but unless there is a compelling reason to use a C20 why bother?

My tool box hasn't looked that clean since every body came and took all their tools back that I had borrowed.

WOW!!! That's ALMOST as fast as my stock '85 S10 with the 2.8, auto, and Dana 35 2.90 rear end.

Got me a vicious watch dog once. To comply with local ordinance also got a large sign read "Beware Vicious Dog" They not only stole the dog they stole the sign too.

The trouble with alarms is unless your close enough to hear it and come a runnin your self, they don't do any good because everybody else ignores them. It's like if you realy need help don't yell "police" Yell "fire" instead. Get more attention.

The OP sending unit is below and to the right of the oil filter, about 2 ins. Instead of renting I would just buy a oil guage. Get the after market kit and it will have lines, adapters to fit.I've seen cheapies for $5. A real cheap way to test is to remove the sending unit. start the motor. If oil shoots out all over the place you've got oil pressure. That won't tell ya if you've got a blocked line or filter. But then neither wud a guage. Again, remove the filler cap. with the motor running look into the hole. You can see if oil is collecting on top of the head.If you look B4 you start the engine the area immediatly below the opening will be dry. How dry depends on how long since it was last run. Now start the engine and look again. A puddle will form directly below the hole, not a lot but enough to tell ya got flow. Unless something broke, or a piece of crud got into the oil line, or it was run without oil, engines don't just suddenly lose OP. Unless your a 'rubber wristed contortionist' your gonna have to come from underneath. Just can't get to it from the top. And by the way. Make sure ya screw the sending unit, or something, back in the hole B4 ya go driving it.

I'm in such bad shape I probably would have to use both hands.

The very first thing you want to do is remove the dip stick and actually check for oil in the engine. Second check and make sure the sending wire didn't come off.The best way is to remove the oil pressure sending unit and screw a oil pressure guage into the hole.Probably need an adapter. Won't tell how much but will tell if your getting oiling is to remove a rocker cover. Look for oil flow on the rocker arms, with the motor running. Let it run 10 minutes. Listen for lifter clicking. If no oil pressure the lifters will start rattling, clicking. Also sometimes just removing the oil filler cap you can see if oil is flying around in there. If after all that it's still running and no noise go for it.If your not pushing it usually the lifters will start clicking giving ya time to shut it down B4 something breaks.

Realy bad luck? Isn't that when your GF tells you she's PG and your wife hears her?

I would bleed the system first before I started buying replacing parts. Then Gunk and a hose down. Cleanliness really helps looking for leaks and or working on stuff.

Iv'e found a easy way to keep tow straps, ratchet tie downs, battery jumper cables etc, neat is to take a pair of panty hose, or nylons, thigh highs, cut the feet off, and roll them over the aforementioned items like a rubber band.How and where you get the hose is your problem, and business.. Maybe we should start another thread here? NAW..

I wanted to buy it but they didn't have two so I would have a set so I told 'em to keep it.

Not tire accesories, just roadside repair hand tools. In my younger days if I was driving out of town the whole tool box went into the bed of the truck. About 110 lbs worth.Started thinkin how unnecessary all that was, downsized. First, do you want to carry your good IE, expensive tools or El Cheapos?Being in the vehicle increases the chance of loss thru theft or losing a wrench alongside the road after using it. If your broke down this is no time for a cheap tool to break. So which is it? Also SAE and Metric or just what your vehicle needs? At first I got a 3/8 drive socket set SK, covering 1/4 to 1 3/8, ratchet, ext handle and speed handle. 2 flat blade screwdrivers, 2 phillips head screwdrivers. Then the 3/8 drive Torx, Phillips,flat head and Allen heads.12 in Crescent, 6in crescent, 8in vise grips, 4in vise grips, water pump and 6in slip joint pliers, roll plastic tape. Fuses I keep in the glove box.packette hand wipes.At first used a .30 cal ammo box but switched to a .50 for room. This discussion is only for DD'S. Not when your going rock climbing and got everything to swap out a rear end or axle.

mechanical fans are OK. They get the job done. But when it's freezing out and the heaters barely defoggin the windshield, why waste HP spinning something ya don't need?

Got a kick out of Sinkrun's remark about little old men. I drive a haggard looking kinda beat up, no grill, bent LF fender and I'm 74. But I'm not little. 6ft 195 lbs Got all,,,,,er,,most of my teeth and a full head of hair, HEHE

Everytime I hit the JY I always go thru the vehicles looking for owners manuals and anything else I can find. No keychains. Found a fairly nice OM for a 1993 Grand Cherokee and Grand Waggoneer the other day. Anybody in CC wants it they can have it for the postage.

Built me a trike once. Used a 350 Buick and Muncie 4spd. Had the radiator behind the seat and used the frame rails to run the coolant thru. Had 2 electric fans running off temp switches set at 195 degrees. Turns out I didn't need them as the routing kept the coolant temp down. I would recommend a temp sw set at a couple degrees hotter than the thermostat thru a relay. Run it awhile and readjust as neccesary.

It's always time for another. Set 'em up Joe. Offer him $300 and maybe compromise on $350. If it was closer I'd get it.