jimoshel

Don't chop the grill. Chop the bumper. I'm not sure what years, around '32-'35 Fords had a "V" in their front bumpers matching the shape of the grill.Make the front bumper a two piece unit like the 'vette. Shaped to match the grill. 'course you'r not gonna be rock climbin with it.

49in,center of Ujoint to center of Ujoint,'89 MJ with D44,Ax15, 4.0L

I would like to get a can, or two of that Kroil. If anybody can send me any I will pay all costs incurred.J

If ya need anymore let me know,Jim

Gettin out the ole 'bed stretcher' There's gonna be one now.

ee Whiz CW,,,yer gun sure a lot bigger than mine. :bowdown:

When not hunting mulies or elk in Colorado I hunt bull rogue elephants in Africa using a single shot, short barrel .22 short pistol . With telescopic sights. Eye sight ain't what it used to be. :huh???:

When refering to a '8ft bed' do you mean a full 8ft? 96"? I just measured my 2 S10's and thy're both 89" and my two long bed MJ'S and they're both 91". Curious minds would like enlightment.

No. Was on Craigs list tho. Was asking $900. We negotiated. I gave him $600. Has Dana 60 in back, Dana 44 in front with leaf springs. I also got the original axles which I'm going to put back under it and 8 tires/wheels. 4.0L.AI15,125K Light surface rust. Runs great.

$250 and he delivered it, 40 miles. Heck, he already had it on his trailer. I've had Goldie, the yellow J20 25 years. It's my work truck. Rust? When we want rust we go to Texas. :cheers:

Think I've got the hang of it, Posting pics, Gonna try one more time. Image Not Found

Soak the threads with a good penetrating oil. Not WD40. let set a couple hours. Prudently applied a pipe wrench shouldn't hurt.

A month ago while driving around I spotted a MJ sitting in a field, apparently abandoned. Left my name and phone No on windshield.Kept going back checking. Finally located owner. He was loading it up on a trailer to haul to the JY. We negotiated. I got it.He already stripped it of dash panel, tail lights and front grill @$$. After getting it home I made a very thoroughful inspection, floor mats, fender wells, fender flares, etc, etc.Was unable to locate any rust, Not even light surface . Next step is to see if it runs. Then chop an channel it. ( That shud fetch a response). LOL1988,good title, long box, 2WD,.2.5 motor, 5 speed tranny. To muddy to check axles. I think I saved this truck by about 5-10 minutes. Trying to figure out how to post pics. :dunno:Image Not FoundImage Not Found

They're own figures don't jibe.they claim for the 658Watt unit draws 47Amps at 14.2 volts.14.2VX47 is 567 watts. thats 100Watts less than their claim.I think they are a workable deal but I would go for the heaviest duty battery that fits the battery box.Also get a high output alternator. Police and taxi's have alt that put out high Amp even at a fast idle.Also at 47A you need a No6AWG wire.Have you thought about a surplus flight suit? PITA plugging and unplugging everytime you get in or out.

Only if ya got a genuine 'coon tail hanging from the antenna.Does bring up an interesting point. apply a greasy coat to the Commanche. Plaster of paris mold.Voila,,Instant fiberglass 'manche bodies. Lose 500lbs dead weight and rustproof.

When I was in Thule Greenland and Alaska, all our vehicles had Southwind gas heaters in them.Worked great and weren't realy that bad on gas.

Real cars are made out of metal. Not 'glass. I'd stay and argue the point but gotta go fix the crack in the 'vette.

Cutting torch, Welder, Hammer.

I took a 1" putty knife.Put a sharp edge on the blade.Drilled a hole thru the handle and blade, inserted a steel pin. Keeps the handle from coming off when ya pull. Put the flat side of the blade next to the glass and push. After going all the way around take a piece of wood, shingle or shim and push it between the glass and frame. Gently, don't force it.Now start going around the glass again with the putty knife and working the shim in to hold the glass out. 1. do this on a warm day with the sun on the windshield.It can get hot and feel like your burning your hand. It is. 2.Take it easy. don't rush. Took me 20 minutes to remove a S10 windshield this way. If I had the money I would have paid a pro to do it. 64Cheyenne has an excellent writeup on this subject in the DIY Project write up forum with nice pics. Wonder why he didn't mention it in his reply.

I thought all '89 MJ'S were metric. I strongly suggest you make sure what you got before you screw up your bolt holes'

Remember those 10 years. That's something you'll always have.

Wouldn't advise it. However it's been done and take it easy you can do it. Trouble with P/U's and towbars is the weight ratio. Trucks have the power,gearing frame strength but no weight on the rear wheels.Unlike a trailer where weight is transfered to the truck. Tow bars exert no weight. Just a side force. I lost a '65 Dodge 1 ton pulling a '52 Waggoner when the front tire on the Jeep blew. Totaled them both out. Put a couple hundred pounds weight in the truck bed and take it easy you be OK.

Factory Service Manual is THE way to go.Has more detail and information, I also use Haynes and Chilton. Seems as if Chilton has a little more spec info. A while back I got a Chilton CD on Chrysler trucks, including the Comanche. Has more detailed info than the book. Total care CD, 28065. Got it on EBay.$26

God, give him the strength but give me a drink, JD,

Just knowing the 'Detroit mind' I would guess they all fit both applications. but the bushings for 2WD would be softer for a more quite ride while the 4WD bushings would be harder for a more firm ride.