jimoshel

An open flame is OK if the block is sitting on the floor or on a stand. It is not advised if the engine is still in the car, truck.

Use something with a thin blade, Putty knife, kitchen table knife. Sharpen the end. Tap it in between the pan and block with a hammer.Go all the way around the pan like this. Don't get impatient or p*ssed and try to pry it of. When you cut all the way around it will fall off. I took a putty knife and bent it 90 degrees 1-1/2 inches back. Then brazed a 1 inch wide 2 inch long 1/8 inch thick piece of steel to the backside to hammer on. Works great.Measurements aren't critical. You just want something to hammer on. Use a narrow putty knife. 3/4 or one inch.

No. If you would take a BAH and beat in the lower backend so it would clear the axle it would. I've compared them.

2.5, 5spd, 4.10, 215-15, 21MPG.very heavy footed. 2.5, 4spd, 4.10, 215-15, 25MPG,GF DD, all hwy. 4.0, 5spd, 3.53, 235-15, 20MPG, VHF

You can't ship a used gas tank. DOT safety regs. Might try filling it full of vino and painting 'IMPORTE DE ITALIA' on the side.

I don't think they ALL do. Maybe only half. The other half is just ignorant.

Engine enamel is a little tougher than regular paint. It doesn't come in as many colors. Other than that I couldn't recommend one over another. Might go down to some overpass and ask the taggers their recommendation.

Or being pushed by them

With the bed in place a paint gun will reach 6-10 inches, Either paint this area yourself and then put the bed back on or leave the bed loose and let the shop paint it, A body shop will take the box off only if you ask them to, and they charge for their time and trouble.

I sometimes wonder what Bob Hope, Jonathon Winters or George Carlin could do with some of the material coming out of this forum. :rotf:

This sounds like something I'd do, if for no other reason than just for the heck of it. I would leave the fuel pump in the tank and install a inline regulator with the return line between the reg and and carb just to help prevent vapor lock. Just my .02 worth. Frankly I think it can be done, TBI to carb, I just don't think it would be worth it.

Four of them, One on each wheel. True 4WD. Unstoppable, Possibilities are mind boggling. :huh???:

You omitted the part about the parking lot.

Just got back from a trip to WallyWorld. Bet there were maybe 30-40 P/U's there with toppers on them. If I were looking for a cover to fit my orphan truck I believe it would be worth a trip and a hour's worth of my time to go to a local parking lot with a tape measure and just go thru the place measuring everything even looked close. Find something, see what it's mounted on. Might get some funny looks but but what the heck. Give it a try.

Both. I'm 6' even and the horse is an adopted Mustang pony from the Wild River herd in Wy. I'm training her for both saddle and cart and going to give her to my GF grand daughter.

had a leaky front oil seal. Took it to a mechanic to get it fixed and he screwed the motor up so bad it won't even turn over. Guy owns the truck knows nothing about mechanics. Had it advertised for sell for best offer. I offered a $100 which apparently was the best. From the pics it looks good but won't know until I actually see it.

That is not what I wanted to hear. However it is what I wanted to know. Thanks Corry. Think I'll get it anyway. Right now scraps getting $175 a ton so I won't lose anything and maybe the rims will fit.

I have a chance to get a '90 Dakota for $100. Unfortunately I know nothing about them. Haven't seen it in person yet, just pics and conversations with the owner. It's 2.5, 5spd manual, rust free and has a beautiful set of rims. How many of it's part will swap with MJ? I know the motor won't. I'm hoping the tranny is the AX15. And maybe the rear end and wheels will swap. Motor doesn't run. Jim

This very well could be true. However I doubt it for two reasons. Qne, Ford was an egotist and the idea of the army making him change something would drive him to do anything to show them. Two, all government contracts have waiver clauses in them releasing any vendors from liability lawsuits. Also at the time the US Government was Fords only customer and Ford had no plans to sell their GP' s to the public. They couldn't sell them anyway as Willys held the patents and all manufacturing rights. So no reason for Ford to fear any warranty claims.

Thats what I use to measure rod bearing clearances with. :rotf:

This is a point can be discussed forever. The fact remains is you don't build a empire if your stupid.

:agree: Also Jeep used a lot of GM ie, Delco electrical components. It's possible a Chevy part may work.

Wikipedia is a great source of info.

Willys was the producer of the MB. Ford produced the GPW. Both units were identical and parts could be swapped between the two as per government spec's. When the first GPW were built they had the Ford logo on the tail gates. Military said "no way" and made Ford remove all of them. Old Henry not to be outdone, had the Ford logo letter 'F' stamped on every bolt head installed on a GPW. It wasn't discovered until the middle of the war and by then it was too late. Now at auto shows that can be the tiebreaker between to Jeeps, whether or not the Ford has all the F marked bolts. They had the M38 and M38A1 after the MB'S and before the M151 MUTT=Military Utility Trans At Ft Campbell, KY during the summer of '64 I had the un nerving experience of watching a M151 , Mutt, driver burn to death after losing control and sliding head on into a deuce and half. flipping him over and catching fire. It was not pleasant.

You would think the directions would be more specific, not making it necessary to have to post a question like that. What I am wondering is, is it necessary to remove it in order to install the lifts?