jimoshel

Imaginative? :shake:

Been a Jeep man all my life. In 1947 learned to drive in a MB. I was 12 years old. Think I've owned at least one example of every model, CJ, MB, GPW(Ford) FC, Gladiator, J series and two 1942 Willys Pick ups. I quit buying new jeeps in 1983 with the purchase of a 1983 J10 so the MJ era sorta sneaked past me. A year ago I was looking at some property to buy up in the mountains. While walking around the place I spotted a Jeep P/U buried in some brush, just the left front fender sticking out and enough grill to recognize Jeep. Walked over and gave it a better look. It was a pitiful sight, 3 flat tires, bed full of trash and construction waste. Critters nested in the cab and under the hood, Wiring shot, chewed up. Engine compartment stuffed with leaves, dead critters and critter crap. I looked at my GF. She said a loud resounding "NO" Asked the property owner if it was for sale. He asked "what'l ya give me?" I said a hunnert dollars. He said "It's yours" Got it home, cleaned it up. Took me a week to get it running. Went on line and in a Google search to find out something about my new P/U I stumbled across CC. The rest is history. I now have ten MJ'S, sold one or I would have eleven, Only eight are driveable, one the motor runs good but the PO tried to make a rock crawler out of it and messed up bad. Think it's got 2 Dana 60'S under it that I'm going pull and scrap and install original axles, The other one motor turns over but won't fire. Really haven't had time to dig into it. My DD is 1987 MJ, 2.5, 4sd, 2WD, 225R70/15, 3:55 225K on the clock, does 80mph on the highway and gets 21-23 mpg. Have a '77 J20 for the heavy stuff.

I don't have any MJ'S with a 2.8. I do have two XJ'S (close) and four S10'S with the 2.8 and have never had any trouble with any of them. I think they are very reliable and economical engines and are vastly under rated by a bunch of nay sayers.

AHH memories. Want to compare notes? In Oct 1953 I was a buck private fresh out of jump school and assigned to the motor pool, King Co, 511 Abn Inf Reg, 11th Abn Div, Ft Cambell, Ky as a truck driver, the truck being a 1953 Studebaker, deuce an half. OD in color, no chrome. Drove that truck for a year until they sent me to Ft Benning for radio Repair school, beginning my career in electronics. Enjoyed the videos. ALMOST as much fun as the real thing.

:agree: I will pay at least $300 for a wrecked MJ if all there.

Fix it. Get a XJ donor and swap parts. It takes more than a whack to knock out a ECU, although a voltage spike will do it. I would look for a cut wire or broken sensor first.

The first time I pulled a head and didn't see any locating dowels I didn't believe it. Believe it. There isn't any. So far I've pulled 5 heads and no problem. Just get everything lined up and be careful setting the head and the head bolts seem to line everything up pretty good. If you have any doubt then take a couple bolts and cut the heads off. Locate them at opposite ends of the block.After installing the head and getting the bolts in, remove the 2 and finish up. The book recommends using head bolts a maximum of twice. Tells you to mark a daub of white paint on each bolt head so anyone pulling the head again will know. If your pulling a head with so marked bolts then trash can them and get new ones.

The bushing for the pitman arm are worn. The adjusting nut on top has nothing to do with it. You need to rebuild or replace the steering box.

I price a front clip, hood, both fenders, inner and outer, grill, bezel and front bumper $150 you pull, $200 I pull. That's for '84-'89 XJ.

Brings back a ?? memory. When I come home I would unlock the door, enter, lay keys on TV set by the door, shut or leave door open depending on weather. One night about 10PM I get a call from work needing my presence, now. Leaving the house I get halfway to the truck and realize I don't have my keys. Head back to the house and remember house and car keys on same ring. Sometimes if I didn't shut the back bed room window tightly I can work it open. Not tonight. It's getting later, I'm getting desperate, IE, P*ssed. Grab ladder nearby and put it thru bed room window, crawl thru and head for front room. As I reach for keys on TV I notice the front door is standing open. Needless to say I was not to jovial to those around me that night. I always have copies of keys but seems I can never find them when I need them.

Sounds like the worst kind of problem, Intermittent short . Check the dash VM, if you have one, and see what it does when this happens. If you don't have one then hook a voltmeter up where you can see it while driving. If the voltage drops you have a short. If it stays the same or maybe go up slightly you have a open. This will at least give you a clue as to whats happening. Start at the battery. Visually check every wire looking for loose connections, worn or bare insulation. Have the radio and lights on so you can see, hear when the problem happens. Grab, pull, twist, push and shake every wire and wire bundle and plug and connector you got trying to initiate it. Good luck, your gonna need it. Let us know what you find.

Your all invited to the BBq tonight. Bring your own beer. Was doing a clutch job on a S10. Guy works for me was under neath pulling the trans. He hollers. "Jim" I look, This fella is coiled up under the front axle about 15in from his head. A 12 in crescent to the noggin Other than that it was a normal day. 3ft 10in, 8 rattles.

Like many others here, I would never take a car, or truck to a repair shop. In the couple incidents I was involved in I talked to the adjuster and settled for a cash payment, fixing any damage myself.

Nice score. Swap ya straight across for a '77 J20, after you replace the tail gate. Or a '75 :brows:

Should work. Make sure the surfaces are clean so it will stick better. Also consider Krylon, or any brand, clear plastic spray paint.

Don't know about Fl but a front bumper is $30 here. In good shape. Complete instrument cluster $15-25 depending on gauges.

Elaborate a point. Over the years there have been several types of arrangements on the gas tanks for gas line outlet. The early ones were flat across the bottom with the fuel outlet flush or slightly raised above the bottom. Any junk in the tank went straight to the fuel pump, where applicable. Some of the early tanks were elevated and fed the carb by gravity. Then they started dimpling the bottom, like a small saucer, with the line sticking above about a 1/2in and in the middle of the depression, the idea being sediment would gather in the depression. Somewhere along the line they started putting glass bulbs in either the fuel line and , or built into the fuel pump. Called sediment bowls. They were improved upon by putting ceramic filters in them. About this time they also started building filters into the carb at the gas point of entry. Then came the filter in the tank. Then with FI and the pump in the tank came the filter sock. The marble trick worked pretty good, kinda, with the early systems but created nothing but noise on the later ones. :smart: FOR SALE, Slightly used fuel pump for 1923 Stanley Steamer. Same shape but slightly smaller than the ones used on steam locomotives.

I've sprayed the engine bay good with Gunk, after making sure all caps, were in place first, Then hosed it down. Never had any trouble.

I'll take a J-20 delivered to Harvard, Il. Do you deliver? Rob L. :brows: Normally no. However for you and a cold one I'll think about it. :cheers:

I'll take a marble or sugar to a grenade anytime. One of the favorite tricks of the VC was to wrap a rubber band around a grenade, pull the pin and drop it in a gas tank. The gas dissolves the rubber and BOOM. The marbles usually just caused a strange noise, drive the driver crazy trying to figure where it was coming from. The sugar can be anything from mild, clogging the fuel pump to totally wiping out an engine. Depends on the how the motor was being worked as the sugar dissolved. Slow speed it just clogged the fuel pump, fuel filters, carb jets to burning the pistons out of the motor if the car was doing highway speeds or lugging. Sugar gets hotter than a son um gun when it burns.

All the J20's and any of the 3/4 ton trucks I've ever seen were 8 lug. FC excepted. I have several J20 axle assemblies as well as a couple J20's if anybody really wants one.

I have seen both regular exhaust manifold and headers on EBay for renix Also Quadratec and J.C. Whitney. I'm sure a local speed shop or parts store could get them for you. You might want to use the rubber hose trick to find out for sure what the noise is and where it's coming from before spending money. My guess would be a lifter as they usually quiet down as the engine warms up whereas a leaking manifold gets louder.

Hmmm, Wonder what would happen if I painted a XJ bright red without wearing head cover.

Surely the conversion your doing has already been done a hundred or more times already. Why don't you place a post in the Tech forum explaining what your doing and the info you need. Bet you'll get a good answer there. Jim

Unfortunately I didn't mark all my drive shafts when I removed them. Can you send some measurements? Spline count?