jimoshel

If it were closer I'd have it in my yard by now.

A pic would really be a great help.

I'll take 2. ML

Just looked at a 1989 XJ with 31.50X10.50X15 on stock rims. No lift. There is a a small rub mark on the right hand LCA and a just barely noticeable rub mark on the left LCA. No marks on tires. From what I saw I'm not going to worry about it. If I wanted to do something about it I believe I would just heat the small rib a little and hammer it up next to the main part. Another idea would be to cut a arc out of the bottom side of the LCA. If there was any worry about weakening it then weld a piece in the bottom, closing the 'U'.

You cannot ship a used gas tank. Unless it's close enough for pick up follow Automans advice and get a new one from EBay. Be sure and check the prices tho as I have seen as much as $100 differences for the the same tank.

I've put to many miles on S10's with 2.8's and one XJ, to knock them or put them down. They're reliable economical motors and properly maintained will give many trouble free miles. That said the carburated ones can be a pain in the lower extremities. They don't have the power of the Jeep I4 but the diff is very minor. If you have a good running 2.8 then keep it. However when it does wear out or goes bad , then replace it with a 3.2 or 3.8.

Gave my GF a '89 XJ to drive,4.0, auto, 2wd. It kept overheating badly. Finally got tired of listening to her complaining about the smell and smoke and constantly having to refill coolant so I attacked the dern thing. Obvious, and easy, things first. Fan belt and aux fan OK. Thermastat OK. Apparent normal coolant flow thru heater and htr hoses. Removed temp sending unit, the one on the back of the head. ????, nothing. No coolant flow, nothing. Poked wire down hole. Wire hit resistance, came out wet but still no coolant. Got air hose, applied air 90psi to hole. Nothing. Applied air, 20psi, to pressure bottle. Nothing. Dropped exhaust manifold, removed rear freeze plug. Nothing. Block was so full of crap it was practically solid. Got pressure washer and long wire, started probing around in hole. Note. When probing around freeze plug hole, DRAIN COOLANT FIRST! After removing thermostat housing, thermostat and lower radiator hose and heater hose proceeded to flush clean out block. Used a 1/4in cable to push into all and every opening I could find while running water thru the block. After flushing out about 3 coffee cans of crud and crap I did the heater and radiator. They were clean. Just the block was dirty. Put everything back together again and test drove XJ. Temp gage went up to 200 and stayed there. No more problem.

I am negotiating with a lady for the purchase of a 1998 Cherokee sport. She wants $850. I'm offering $450 and $500 when I get to hear it run. As near as I can determine there is no frame, engine damage. Just sheet metal and radiator. 90K, No rust. We'll see. image 1918566943-0 image 1918566943-1 image 1918566943-2 image 1918566943-3

Sounds like a good deal to me. Main thing I would check for is around the motor mounts. In a hit like your describing, I have seen where it cracked the block.

Can't be to rare. Got one sitting in the yard. Paid $400 for it and drove it home. Fly in the ointment. Having trouble getting a title for it. Probably going to end up parting it out and using some of them to convert a MJ to 4WD.

It can be done. All you need is the $$$. Or the knowledge and equipment to do it yourself. I once double teamed two T20's by uniting the output-input shafts with a U Joint. Just looking i think it could also be done with the 270 and 231 series. The alignment has to be perfect if you expect to get any life out of it. If you have the room the simplest, and cheapest method would be to use a short driveshaft between them. I have also offset them and connected them with a roller chain, substituting chain gears for the UJoints.

I was sitting at a table at the Bar Miami in Pamplona, Spain one sunny day enjoying a San Miguel and playing grab *ss with the bar maid when I noticed something in the bottom of the bottle. Closer inspection revealed the cigar butt I had dropped in a empty bottle in Manilla 2 months earlier. :shake:

My sister got pregnant sitting on a toilet seat. :shake:

You want data? The $20 and SASE?

Better beer, Tuborg from Denmark. Worst beer in the world, French green beer. So-So beer. San Miguel and DeLeon. And then there's Coors, Brewed with Rocky Mountain Spring Water, as compared to Olympia, It's the water. If they know it's the water why don't they change it?

A box of condums. A box of shotgun shells and a wedding veil.

I have done a lot of research on ways to improve the mileage of my MJ. Aerodynamics, streamlining, tire pressure, etc. One article gave very impressive figures on weight removal, lightening of the vehicle. I decided to try it. Getting a FSM and a set of scales I carefully evaluated the weight of every part of a Jeep Comanche Pick Up. I came to the conclusion that the engine was the heaviest part on the truck. I removed it. Eureka!, It worked. I haven't burnt a drop of gas since. For a detailed report on this astounding feat send a SASE and $20 to me, Jimoshel. Don't hold your breath waiting for a reply. :idea: :nuts:

I welded a 1/2 in aluminum plate using Alumiweld. The flux was on the outside of the rod. Rod was 1/8in. The weld looked like a 5yr kid had been playing with his daddies buzz box, all bumpy and rough, but it held. I was able to bend the sheet without the weld breaking. With a little practice the weld appearance could have been better. A regular welding tip wouldn't hack it. The aluminum soaked the heat up to fast. Used a 2in Rosette. For the trouble I'd just wait until I could get a TIG-MIG and do it right. Or take it to a welding shop.

Probably not but might be worth trying, for a temporary fix. Main thing make sure the surface is clean. After applying the JB heat the area around the fix. Use a torch. The JB will become a liquid and flow into the crack. JBWeld is pretty good but it doesn't have the strenght of a weld.

For a budget rebuild, your on the right track. I've done worse. I once disassembled and reassembled a 1956 1200 Volkswagon using all the old parts, gaskets, rings, bearings etc. It was in Spain. I tore it apart Sat morning and needed it Sunday night. No parts stores, nothing. I broke the no 1 compression ring to the no 3 cylinder and swapped it with the no2 ring. I drove it for 11 months putting 15,000 miles on it like that. Took a qt of oil every 500miles. Finally traded it in on a new '59 Jaguar. Good luck, Jim

Do not put your plates on the MJ. Most of the options you mentioned, if caught, will just get a citation. The plates deal will get you a trip to the calaboose. Every state I've been familiar with will issue a temporary tag or a transit tag with the proper paper work. Talk to 10 DMV employees. I've found on average 1 in 10 knows what they're talking about. Also consult a state trooper. They're pretty hip on the laws they're enforcing.

Often a crack in a head, block, manifold will contract and be sealed when cold. As the part warms up the crack will expand and then leak.

Get the fiance a job and let her pay for it. Gotta get 'em broke in right.

I got a kid comes around sometimes interested in mechanics. I used that head to teach him how to do a valve job. Then milled the mating surface to clean it up. It's just sitting on the shelf and I just wanted to see if I could get some use out of it. No big deal. Anyway appreciate the comments. Jim