jimoshel

Found me a AX15. Heading for the JY first thing in the AM. Got a brew standing by if anyone can see there way to come help me. The driveshafts already gone so I'm just gonna undo the 2 bolts on either side and take the whole thing, Transmission, transfercase, crossmember and shield plate. Thanks guys.

What tranny do you have now?

At the P&P this afternoon I saw a transmission in a 1989 XJ. The Jeep had been rolled. I couldn't get underneath it and there was too much stuff on top to see well enough for identification. The motor was gone so it's a clear shot looking at the front. It has internal clutch. What to look for to insure this is a AX15, not a BA10 when all you can see is the front. Bell housing is still attached. Jim

I do not want to convert on this one. I have a '75 J20. That's the one been the center of attention here the last couple days. The hub adapters are missing. Long story, Don't ask. I have a '77 J20 with the adapters. I have been switching them between the two as needed but that is a PTB so I am trying to locate another set. I am confident that International, Dodge etc will interchange, maybe. It's just knowing which models, years. This is what I have, 1975 J20 This is what I need, 1977 J20 This is the FSJ If I could make it work I would.Er,,Wud. I believe there was a adapter that slid over the axle shaft and bolted to the hub, making the axle permanently locked. If I could find a set of them It would do.

I need a set of hub adapters for a 1977 J20. These are the aluminum thingys that bolt to the front hubs and the lock out, or regular hubs bolts to them. Primarily I want to know what makes and years of other trucks will fit as I'm sure that they will fit more than just Jeep. And or if you have a set your willing to part with, let me know. Jim

Merely correcting a misspelling that has been going on far too long. If should was pronounced the way it's spelled it wud (would) be show uld. :smart: Besides, I'm not a typist. Anything that will shorten the words used I'm going to do.

When I was in school a guy made the remark that my sister wasn't pretty. Naturally I confronted him and we duked it out. Actually she wasn't pretty but you don't let outsiders put down your family. I think that is what's going on here. I think our feelings are hurt because somebody doesn't have the same esteem for our Jeeps that we do. Or something like that. Just a thought.

Can't have been to big of a failure. I've seen over a dozen S10'S with the 2.8 and over 150K on the odometer. I've only had one jeep with the 2.8. A '86 with 198K on the clock. I think the Jeeps were a little heavier than then the GM cars and trucks and not as torquey as the 2,5. Properly maintained they were reliable motors.

On a dirty engine I pour a can into the crankcase and then while it's running, pour a can into the carb or TB slowly until the cans almost empty and then pour it all in trying to time it so the engine floods and stalls at the same time the can empties. Then let it sit for at least half an hour. Longer is better. On a clean engine I pour a can into the gas tank about every oil change.

I can get $450 for it as scrap. $400 and it's yours. And you ain't gonna believe this. I got to thinking about the fact that I very seldom give up, at least not without one helluva fight. Went back out to it with jumper cables and a couple tools. After 10 minutes fooling with it it fired, sputtered for 10-15 seconds and ran great. Figures. :dunno:

20 year old trucks. No telling what a PO has done to them. The main thing is if you know and understand what the various things are for and are supposed to do, then you can generally figure things out.

I just love them 'shop classes' where they teach mechanics and stuff. Never had much faith in shop mechanics and after a incident in the early '70's had even less. I bought 396 Chevy from the local junior college shop class for $20. It had been completely rebuilt as a class project and after finished it wouldn't turn over. They sold it as scrap. Pulling the heads revealed every dern piston in it had been put in backwards. The dome on the piston was hitting the head. I met the class instructor thinking he might want to show the class for a learning experience. HA!! He wanted nothing to do with it or me. So much for higher education. I bolted it up to a T98 and dropped it into a '64 Gladiator.

You won't know what you will need until you tear the engine down and all the parts are accessible to be inspected and measured for wear. Are you going to do the work yourself or farm it out?

On the intake manifold where the PCV air in fitting is the top hose goes to the side of that fitting. Another hose goes from the top of that fitting to the top rear of the valve cover. On the bottom pic I sent, where my fingers showing, that 90* elbow going into the block is the bottom hose.

This is ridiculous. After getting the J20 loaded on the trailer I just looked at it. It occurred to me that out of over a hundred vehicles that I have scrapped, all makes, all types none was ever a Jeep. It is now sitting in a far corner of the field. Any body want to buy it or any parts from it? Jim

In my youth when I was a farm boy, they had a solution they put in tractor tires. It was meant to add weight to the tires for traction. Since it was meant for tires there shouldn't be any harmful effects like anti freeze. Why couldn't it be used for balancing?

The way you see it is the way I got it. All the original stuff is in the bed. My idea , when I got it, was to evaluate the situation and see if it could be salvaged. That is, go ahead and make the rock crawler out of it the the PO was trying to do, except he didn't have the foggiest idea in hello what he was doing. Also the engine sounded great when started and ran OK. After the comments received I believe I'm just going to remove everything and restore it back original. Anybody wanna buy a couple Dana's? :nuts:

Your welcome. Glad to be of some help. Jim :cheers:

I have 2 D44'S I think. I can find no numbers like all the books show, to identify them. I'm just going by the shape of the cover. The back one has a 5 on 5.5 lug pattern. The front has a 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern. I would like to make both of them the MJ 5 on 4.5 pattern. Failing in that at least make them both the same, preferably the 5 on 5.5 pattern. On the rear can I just swap axle shafts? On the front can I swap rotors? or separate the U Joint and swap stubs, rotor? Curious minds want to know. I do have a MJ D44 so I can try it and see swapping axles but wondering if it's already been done or not. I don't know what they were out of originally. They were on the MJ when I got it. :dunno:

A couple months ago I got 2 of them at the P&P. Cost me $5.00. Better go get 'em off the work bench and put 'em in the safe. :ack:

These help?

Finally got PB to work,sort of. Floor boards rusted out. Steel plate welded in place. Rust along bottom of bed. This was a farm truck when I got it so it has been pretty well trashed out. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Left front head bolt needs less torque, 75ftpds than the rest. 85ftpds.

I really feel those are unkind and unnecessary remarks and not fitting from a member of CC or any group dedicated to helping others with their hobby. I feel they would of been better left unsaid. Jim

When they first started undercoating it's primary purpose was rust prevention. Than they began the sound deadening spiel. Properly applied it does the job it was intended for. If not properly applied moisture gets trapped under it and hastens the rusting process. Personally I don't undercoat and use the car wash whenever I think it needs it. Mostly after driving on salt treated roads. If I was to undercoat, I would use the rubberized method.