jimoshel

If a fella was wanting a 2.5 motor with a AX15 tranny what makes, models and year would he be looking for?

I had a bad valve stem seal do that. Would only do it when shut down for a couple minutes, then started again. Start it and as soon as the smoke starts diminishing shut it off. Then pull the plugs. The leaking one will be oily, sooty. Actually shut it off while it's still smoking good, before the soot burns off. On the one I had didn't have to pull the plugs. Upon removing the valve cover the mutilated seal could be seen at the bottom of the valve stem.

Don. Tnx for the link. It did help. I just got through tearing a '88 panel apart and it does have a cal pot. However it's only for fine tuning and cannot cover the range difference between the 2.5 and 4.0. Still need to know which resistor to change and what value. The first tach I ever had was a 'make your own' using directions from a popular mechanix and parts from a scrap TV. That was back in 1955. Put it in a '52 Pontiac. The principle's the same. Just the components got smaller.

From what I've been able to determine, they didn't have calibration feature until '91.

If your gonna copy, why not copy from a pro?

Not wanting to re invent the wheel but does anyone have a schematic for the Renix era tachs? I think the 2.5 and 4.0 tachs can be swapped by changing a resister on the tach module. I have instrument panel for both and can look and see but just wondering if some ones already done it. Checked search but couldn't find what I wanted.

Normal heater operation won't affect it. Sometimes finding a vacuum leak can be a bear. One method is to remove all vacuum accessories as close to the source (intake manifold) as possible. Then hook them back up, one at a time. Helps narrow it down a little. Be sure and block off any open lines when doing this.

It affects the air, fuel ratio.

:agree:

You sure it's the engine and not a accessory? Might try removing the belt and see. Hope for the best but expect the worst.

I once slammed a door without noticing my fly was open. I'll never do that again. :headpop:

I prefer the gauges and usually when I get something with lights I install aftermarket gauges. With Jeep just swap instrument panel. If possible I like to leave the oil light so if I'm not paying attention that sudden red gets it. On some motors you can tap into the oil gallery and add the extra sending unit. Otherwise get a tee fitting and use the original location.

For idiot lights the sending units are switches. For gauges they are variable resistors.

Give it a couple drinks. It'l be OK.

If you have a burning question needing a quick, informative response, then try the search function before posting on the forum. Saves time and keeps you from looking like a jerk. Also keeps Pat from getting annoyed at ya. I'm getting ready to swap a set of axles from a 2001 Cherokee to a '86 MJ and was wondering whether to keep the ABS function. Started to post the Q in the tech section but thought about the Search function. Typed 'ABS' in the box and got 3 replies. Told me everything I wanted and needed to know. :smart: PS. The reason I wanted to swap was for the heavier U joints in front and to stop the howling and clunking from the rear. And I am keeping the ABS function.

Beat me to it, with video no less. Anyway in 2H the drive shafts are dis connected from each other. For a short tow just put the tranny in Neutral and the TC in 2H.

You sure it doesn't stand for 'rusted out lights'?

I have belonged to two forums, clubs, before joining CC. One was for Corvairs and the other was for home built aircraft. Both of them started out the same way CC started. A forum where people who shared a common interest could get together and share stories, experiences, share knowledge and offer help when needed. They were successful and the membership rose, going from under 100 to over a 1,000. As they grew you could see the change in the club, going from friendly help and comradally (?) to snide remarks, flaming, name calling and do it my way cause I'm the only one who's right. It finally reached the point where a few individuals were running the show and deciding how things went. almost completely opposite of what the original goal was. Needless to say I dropped out of both of them. Unfortunately I see the same thing beginning here, on CC. Fellas, and ladies. Let's stop it before it gets to inhouse cat fighting and keep the club the way Pete and the few original members meant it to be. A forum for the enjoyment of a hobby and helping those whe needs it, newbie or old timer. Jim

I have a old bank money bag I use when dropping the drive shaft. Just slip it over the end of the DS, draw the strings up tight. and tie it up to something underneath. Keeps the DS and the bearings in place.

I should have mentioned that the unit I was foolin with came out of a 1988XJ. However according to the ID stamping it's a 1990 unit. I think one of the biggest sources of disagreement and confusion on what's what is due to the fact that our trucks are over 20 years old and very few of us are the original owners. Who really knows what was done to or swapped in them before they came into our possession? I still have it set up. Going out tomorrow and try what COMJNUT mentioned. Go thru all the gears and see what happens. Should have done it today but never thought about it.

Seems there is some discussion and disagreement as to whether the 231 transfer case has a true neutral, that is the front and rear drive shafts are separate from each other. The following may not prove anything but it gave me something to do. First obtain a 231. This one happens to have a AX15 attached to it. Image Not Found Secure it to a firm, stable surface, clamping one drive shaft down so it cannot turn. Insure transfer case is in neutral Image Not Found Now, using a drive shaft turning tool attached to the other drive shaft, try to turn that sucker. Image Not Found Those suckers are locked together. Image Not Found Hope ya'all enjoyed reading this as much as I enjoyed doing it. Jim

:agree: TRUE. Just got caught up in the 'Fix it" frenzy. Didn't mention anything about Duct Tape tho.

It's worth a try. Just watch the heat. Remember, there's a rubber diaphragm in there. Maybe take a center punch or chisel and stake the edge over. Course, there's always duct tape.

I towed a 88 MJ over a 120 miles on a tow dolly with both the transmission and transfer case in neutral. Didn't seem to hurt anything. I would have preferred to drop the drive shaft but circumstances made that a non viable option. I think the CAD made it possible.

PS, That is one heck of a good lookin truck you got there Don.