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    Mt Holly, NC

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  1. let me see how much it will cost to ship it, I was hoping an XJ person would take it local and I would not have to deal with it, probably going to be an oversize box, not that heavy
  2. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/296970731209433/ I have this one, not particularly nice, but cheap. Don't know where you are, probably not worth shipping. I'm close to Charlotte,NC
  3. Damn son, you did't waste any time getting on that receiver. I meant to tell you you should take the surface peeling off and POR15 it and then put a topcoat of regular enamel before you put it on.
  4. Old thread. I actually have a couple things to add, some of these may be duplicates: 4.0L tips 1) When you repleace the rear main seal, make sure you are VERY cautious about driving out the top part of the seal. The crank surface is very soft and if you poke it with a hardened punch, it will damage it. Invest in a Brass punch set. Rotate the crank and examine it for damage before you put the bearing cap back on. There are people that claim you can buy a repair sleeve for the rear, but the only one I was able to find was a repair for the front. I've done several RMS', and the last one I rotated the crank and saw where it had been gouged previously. I used some 2000 grit sandpaper to try and polish it, but it started leaking again in about 4 mos, and its still leaking. As far as I know, the only way to fix this is replace the crank. Unless your MJ is lifted, you may plan on having to drop the front axle to get the pan off. 2) Use FelPro rubber gaskets on the oil pan and the valve cover. The next guy that takes it apart will appreciate it (It might be you). 3) As long as I've been working on the 4.0's (have an Xj Waggy I've owned 24 years) I was not aware of the fuel pump ballast problem. It can drive you nuts. If the ballast begins to fail, it is possible for it to continue to send enough fuel to the rail to crank the engine, and show correct initial pressure on a guage, but the fuel pressure (and the engine) will die in short order. It mimics a faulty fuel pump. My 1987 XJ does not have one and I saw no mention of it in the Haynes manual. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator, the MAP sensor and the TPS on this XJ before another member of this group told me to bypass the ballast, which fixed it. Which leads me to another suggestion. There are ways to check sensors, but if you have in your possession sensors you know are good, sometimes its faster just to replace and eliminate. Mark them as good and save them for later use. 4) Cheap drive belts can cause squeeks and squeals that will have you going nuts trying to find which pully is the culprit. I found that Gates belts are more expensive but definately worth the price. And as I've seen in some of the previous posts, its a good idea to carry an extra drive belt and idler pulley. Along with a 13mm wrench to loosen the PS pump and install it. In my opinion thats a poor belt tensioning system, but it is what it is. Its a good idea for you to take some time and see how this thing works while you are at home so that when the thing breaks beside the road you aren't scratching your head. The later XJ style is not great but better. 5) From experience from working on other makes I have found that Bosch fuel pumps are superior to the other cheap aftermarket pumps out there. 6) I have found that deleting the coolant flow valve on the 4.0L can eliminate the potential for problems with that item , as well as that convoluted hose mess. The late model XJs do not have one. If you feel its necessary to shut off the heater core, put a manual inline valve on it. 7) When you install an aftermarket radio, go to Walmart and get the $15 install kit and follow the instructions and install it correctly instead of just sticking it in there loose and pushing the dash bezel back over the unit. I know this is very common, I have numerous XJs out here where the PO did exactly that. Strangely, MJ owners seem more inclined to remove their aftermarket radios than XJ owners. I have 5 Mjs sitting here and not a single one of them had a radio in it when I bought it. By comparison I have 10 XJs I've acquired and all but 2 have radios in them. MJ guys like their tunes? 8) There are some high quality 8mm plug wire sets available. They are about twice as expensive as those cheap sets you buy at the parts store, but once again you get what you pay for. Same with caps and rotors, there are brass ones and aluminum ones. I was working on a OBDII XJ that showed a misfire on #6, turned out to be a failed plug wire on the junk wire set. I also suggest you use the Champion plugs and stay away from the weird split tip plugs, I've seen those fail a lot as well. 9) Invest in a fuel injection noid tester device that will show you if your injectors are firing (MPI). 10) If you suspect your injectors need cleaned don't just dump injector cleaner in the gas tank. Go to the parts store and buy a set of new injector O rings, pull the fuel rail off and clean them with a toothbrush and some carb cleaner. It only takes about 15mins to pull the fuel rail off, lightly lube the O rings before you push the rail back in place. There is no way the crap in a bottle can clean them as well, and you will have fresh set of O rings and super clean injectors. Of course if you get a real wild hair this would be a good time to replace them with some injectors suggested on this site for other applications. 11) 4.0L Jeep engines do NOT have PVC valves. I've seen numerous examples of people installing a PVC valve in the rear of the valve cover. If the elbow needs replaced there are generic plastic ones and grommets available, you may need to drill the hole out a little to have it properly vent to the intake manifold. The front one goes to the air box, there should not be a breather cap on the front hole (I've seen that several times also). 12) If you get stuck out somewhere with a crank/no start situation and suspect the CPS, sometimes if you disconnect the CPS from the harness, crank the engine over, and then reconnect it the engine will fire. Don't shut it off. If this works, you have determined the problem and gotten yourself home (hopefully). 13) Can't remember if I saw this when I looked through these suggestions, but once again, at least HALF of the 4.0L's I look at do not have a fan shroud on the primary fan. I see guys completely baffled as to why they can't keep their vehicle from running hot. These things are available for about 30-40 bucks or cheaper, there's no excuse not to have one installed, and there is no way the fan can operate properly without it. 14) On the cooling issue, just for fun, disconnect your heater hoses and blast some water through the heater core and then put the hose nozzle on the other hose and backflush it. If you havent cleaned it in a while you might be shocked at the crap that comes out. If it appears to be stopped up, you can take an air hose and blow some compressed air through it, I've unplugged blockages that way a lot. Make sure you point the hose the other way or you might be wearing the blockage on your face. 15) If you suspect a possible cracked head or slightly blown head gasket (you are loosing coolant with no apaprent leak). Pull the oil cap off and see if you see any milky deposit on the bottom of the cap. That will indicate you may be getting some coolant in the oil. Most of these tips are from experience with XJs over the years, but since the front half of the MJ is same, they should work. Jeep On.
  5. M5 (5th MJ) I picked up (86) has 2.8 six with auto and 4.10 gears
  6. I've driven numerous XJ's with the 4.0L, a good average mileage on all of those is 17.5-18mpg. One of those is an 87 Waggy I've owned for 25 years. My sons lifted 4x4 4.0L XJ , with 3.55 gears and 33x12.5 M/T tires gets about 14.5mpg . I've been daily driving an 88 MJ 2.5 4x4 5sp with 235/75/15 tires and 4.11 gears for about 5k miles and its getting right at 20mpg (average). I determined the best way to drive both my 2.5s is to rev them over 3000rpm before I shift them. otherwise they won't get out their own way. My lifted 97 TJ 2.5 5sp 4.11 with 33x12.5 BGF TA's gets about 16mpg. All of the figures are GPS to correct speedometer error. Both of the vehicles with 33x12.5 are off by 14% . The MJ with the 235's is off 4%. To figure accurate mileage on those with 33's I have to take the trip odo mileage and divide it by .86 to determine the actual miles. I just bought a 2015 JKU Rubi with 4.10 gears and stock tires (for the moment) and i did a 200 mile trip and got 22.2mpg. Checked it at the pump. I've been a fleet manager for my own vehicles (wreckers) and others (school buses) for almost 30 years, I'm pretty anal about fuel economy. The little 4 banger has a lot of heart, but in my opinion the couple miles per gallon difference is not worth the difference in power.
  7. Nice write up, this is a popular topic on a lot of forums. I would add another suggestion on re-using the old tank and also the hoses. You can use the old tank by making a plug for the bottom nipple and drilling and tapping a MIP fitting with a 1/4" barb to attach a hose to the nipple just under the cap on the late style radiator. And modifying the cap so it won't hold pressure. See attached photo. Also, I did not like all the plumbing on that heater valve, so when I replaced the thermostat housing, I bought a set of 97+ heater hoses and reversed them on the heater core. If you watch bleeping Jeep, he will explain that the hose sizes flip from the thermostat to the heater core, he spliced them and made them work that way. I wondered why the coolant flow could not be reversed, so I tried it. Photo attached. I think it looks a lot cleaner that way. Some people speculated you can get air in the heater core, but I did this a year ago and it works perfectly. Good heat and the vehicle never runs hot.
  8. I'm a little shocked it has the 7500 tow rating. I just bought a JKU a few weeks ago, its tow rating is 3500. I've seen several of them pulling boats that I know exceed that. The little MJ equipped correctly was factory rated at 5000. That's a lot, along with that big payload. I finally gave up on trying to make the MJ into something it is not from a towing standpoint and bought a cheap 6.0L GMC Yukon. The MJs were definitely ahead of their time. I bet the price of this new thing is going to be astronomical. The new JL's are bad enough. And I bet they will have all sorts of quirky problems relating to the roof and other "Gladiator" specific stuff before they get it straightened out. Fiat-Chrysler won't care, they will sell every one they can turn out and the dealers will be adding additional profit until the supply catches up with the demand.
  9. Old thread but possibly a common problem. My Son's 94 XJ was doing the same thing, it was the crank sensor. Also, I'm a fleet manager at a Charter school, sometimes our buses, particularly the DT466s, do the same thing and 90% of the time its a cam sensor, which on those engines does the same thing as the CPS on the Jeeps. It hiccups and "blips" because its acting like you momentarily shut the ignition switch off. It should be replaced and if that is not the problem, keep the old one as a spare.
  10. I bought a JCR coated rear bumper a few weeks ago. It arrived with some shipping damage (very minor) and I'm still going around with the vendor who is communicating with JCR to find out what they intend to do about it. Which apprars at this point to be nothing. Not pleased at receiving a $700 bumper with ANY kind of damage. At any rate, do any of you have pics of an idea to deal with the fact there are no license plate provisions on this thing? JCR pics show the license plate in the back window or on top of a tire in the bed. That won't fly in NC where it has to be mounted on the back and illuminated. I suppose I will have to fabricate some kind of a plate frame that will fit on the receiver. I'm guessing I won't be very happy with the looks of it. If there was an easy and attractive way to fashion something to mount the tag I would assume JCR wouldn't have stuck it on the tire. I'm mad at myself for not thinking that through any better than I did. Any ideas would be appreciated.
  11. This is an 8yr old thread, I searched to see if there were any definitive answers on this and have not seen any, so I am reopening in in hopes someone has tried some swapping. I have an 18GL tank in an '88 long bed, would like to upgrade to a 23GL. The tanks are not very difficult to find, and reasonable (little over $100). But not the sending units. From experience I can tell you that if its at all possible, replace the entire hanger assembly whenever you replace a pump in an old tank. I have a '95 F150 that sat for 6 yrs. The insides of the front tank looked like molassas, replaced that tank. The fuel pumps were easy to find....around $100. BUT... I could not locate the sending unit. Ford no longer makes them....there were no listings anywhere. I managed to find the entire "loaded" hanger assembly, with new everything, for $160. Thats the way to go if its possible. I made the mistake of only replacing the pump in the rear tank. I checked the sending unit with a meter and it appeared to work fine, but when I installed it it only goes to 3/4 and goes to empty at a half tank. Anyway.....if someone has figured out a sending unit solution I would love to hear it. I have the premium instruments with the trip odometer so I would not mind it the gauge does not show completely full. If no one has an answer, I have XJ and MJ tanks I can pull and do some playing around and see if thats an option. Some of the hanger assemblies on eBay list MJs and XJs, of course some sellers on that site list the XJ tail lights as fitting an MJ also......
  12. Hi Folks....Looking to possibly do the late model XJ door swap. It seems the late ('97+) model door power windows work a lot better than the early ones. The XJ forums made reference to a fit problem with the lower dash, but there is no mention of that in this thread. Anyone aware of a problem with this? I have three MJ's, all with manual windows, two of them have inop windows and the third works fine. Apparently the manual ones are no longer available and I refuse to pay a ridiculous price for a used one that will probably last a year or two, so it seems the thing to do is make the move to power.
  13. Old thread, I was just curious to see which folks preferred. I have 2 short beds, and one long bed. I just bought the longbed and have been driving it extensively the last few weeks. I thought I preferred the shortbed, but the reality of these MJ's (after owning an XJ for 22yrs) is there is absolutely no room to put anything in the cab. So...you either have to put a cap or a toolbox in the back. I'm not too crazy about a permanent cap (although I bought a short bed one), and I can see that a toolbox of any size would cut the 6' bed down to zilch. Also, I had a flat last week and had it towed in... the rear bumper drug excessively unloading off the rollback.
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