a bum with money

I've been going through some of the diy forums and noticed there are no pics, just a notice badge. I've never used photobucket so I'm not sure what's up. Seems they want money to use there service. Are the photos lost Forever? Bryce

Yep. BWD might get ya home in a pinch....then again it might not, lol. I've found that NAPA electronics aren't too terrible, but a lot of my spares come from the local pull-a-part. They usually charge $3-10 per whatever and I'll either bench test it or just swap it in and see if it works. If not, take it right back and they'll credit ya (which I can use on another one!). when I worked at ford parts dept long ago, some of the shop mechanics way of diagnosing problem sensors and such ( plug and go I guess ) was to have a used good one in the ol toolbox. if it fixed the problem install a new one. if not move on down the chain till you found the fix. this was back in the 80's. having an extra tps, map, mat, iac, etc, in the glove box could save your but. when off roading what do some of you guys carry concerning fuel, Ing. cooling? Bryce

Didn't realize they were that bad. I guess the best way to get quality parts is to go mopar, or if not available check here for user opinions. Bryce

Was checking the price of a new TPS and there is quite a bit of difference in prices and There are numerous different brands as well. I was at oreillys Web site and was looking up a TPS for my 4.0l. And noticed that for the same engine, there was 2 available parts from BWD. 1 was $88, and the other was $49. The cheaper one was from the P series of BWD. What's the Difference? Bryce .

Welcome to both of You! FYI if you go to your account Tab, then settings, then signature, there you can put all the info on your rig/s and anything else for that matter. That way any info you want to know, everyone will see your rig and all the info about it. Bryce

Aloha! I did some checking on some Web sites, rockauto,Napa. And they didnt list the slip yoke as a separate part from the the whole driveshaft. I'm not completely 100% sure, but it might be something you might get in the pick yards or someone here might have one. Maybe cherokee Yoke? Bryce

What are you guys referring to in regards to red or blue gauges? Bryce

For the benefit of the club, what did you find Out? I for one would like to know. Bryce

I'm afraid to ask but is your manual still available or still in Print? Bryce

If you have intermittent wiper delay on your rig, and assuming this breaker was located under the dash. It is no longer available other than used. But I'm told there not that uncommon. You might even get one off this site. It would be best to confirm what breaker yours is before going to the u-pick yards. Bryce

Did you check the 8 or 10 pin connecter behind the left front headlight? It's in the engine compartment. Sometimes the pins get corroded and/or gunked up. I think its the main part of the lights and stuff. It's worth a look. Bryce

The best fixes are the ones that cost little to no money at all. I've been there as well. Whenever Ive had a mechanical failer it was usually something I recently was messing with. Bryce

Since you mentioned putting in a new starter, did you disconnect the Battery when you replaced the starter? Could be as simple as a bad connection there since you stated you have no power at all. I would start there. Bryce

Yeah, that makes a good argument to just buy used. Saw some other posts that claimed there Bullitt proof, or can handle up to 600 Hp! I'm going to keep an eye out for a aw4 for cheap just to take it apart and dink around with it. What's the general opinion on shift kits? A deeper Pan? Temp gauge would be a must I think also. Bryce

Has anybody here ever rebuilt an aw4? the most expensive kit runs about 300.00 And throw in a shift kit 100.00, a torque converter 150.00. Are they any different than 700r or ford w/od? What makes the aw4 any different to Rebuild? I've never rebuilt an auto, but it can't be that difficult, Right? Why are they so expensive to buy a Rebuilt aw4? Bryce

Don't overlook the o-ring where the fuel pressure regulator attaches to the fuel rail. A lot easier to replace the o-ring with the fuel rail out. Bryce

For the multifunction switch you will need the "w. intermittent, w/o tilt" switch, p/n 56000032. And of course you will need a new stalk w. the intermittent wiper feature and the plug-in module. What is this plug in module under the dash Called? What would a parts house call It?

Can I assume that the column in the comanche and cherokee are the Same. And the only difference then is column shift a/t or manual transmission Column? And 87-90 with 4.0 Engine? Wow! Half the price of rockauto.

Would like to have the intermittent option here in oregon. I don't have tilt steering so What are the options involved in going over to the other Side? It seems there are only 2 choices on the switches, are they just a plug and go? Also my wipers sometmes park on the w/s and off the w/s, where's the problem there? Bryce

Well I've solved the problem. I'm going to use ez lok inserts to accommodate a M4-.7 screw. By using a Allen head socket screw, I'll be getting a much higher grade than the original screw, and still have room for adjustments. I really didn't want to spend 50$ for 2 soft screws and a part I may or may not use. Bryce

When?, what brand?,p/n? don't leave me hanging bro!

These TPS screws only were used on the renix systems 87-90, I 99% sure of that. Yeah, thought of that too

Yeah, a M4 would be to small. The old timer at the machine shop didn't think a M5 would even hold after retapping. I going to check to see if a #10 or #8 Machine screw will work, haven't tried that yet. Whatever I do its going to be permanent. What ever possessed jeep to use such a unique Size? As far as I found, it only has a single use! Bryce

Wow! Never would have thought that these screws would be so hard to Find! M4.5-.75 x 25, are you kidding Me! My local machine shop has never heard of that size and added that there wouldn't be enough meat to tap if I wanted to go to a m5 size. If you Google it, zip, Nada, no such Animal! Has anyone ever come up with a fix using more common Materials? Studs, Self tapping? The used parts yards won't just sell screws. Can't blame em. Bryce

I thought this was important enough to have its own post. I recently replaced cracked ex manifold and thought I would go ahead and upgrade my injectors. After reading some posts and getting great advice on some issues, the job went well. During the test for fuel leaks (key on only) I had a substantial leak at the joint where the rail and fuel pressure regulator joined together. It turned out that the o-ring was severely flattened and had shrunk in size. In all the posts that I read, it was never mentioned about this particular o-ring replacement. IT IS JUST AS IMPORTANT AS TO PAY ATTENTION TOO! BTW: this o-ring is the same one used on the injectors. Bryce .