a bum with money

success! just took my rig out for a test drive, only put a couple miles on it so it might be to early to tell. but the ATP Y-924 seems to be a suitable replacement for my 88 MJ. even tho it had a nylon retainer that I had never seen before it fit well and locked into place. was looking at the OEM parts manual and they listed two different lengths, 70" for the 2WD and 77" for the 4WD with the A/T, w/o cruise, and the 4.0 in the years 88-90. I used to work in parts at a few ford dealerships back in the day and learned that just because the part # may be different doesn't mean that it won't fit or work. now this is just my opinion but I think that the ATP Y-924 might be a good replacement for 88-90 in all categories w/o cruise. 88-90 had the same speedometer assy as far as the fitting of the speedo cable, it's just the length that is different. ( this one was 7" longer than the one I replaced (70")) even the amazon vehicle fitment said that ATP Y924 would not fit my jeep or in any year, but the reviews said other wise. even the illustration showed a different nylon retainer! but we have some great jeep veterans on CC that can weed through these details and get to a final solution. one question tho, and that is did they change from w/clip to w/o clip in mid year on the 87 MJ/and or XJ?

just a suggestion, but have you tried putting the speedo head first? seems strange that it won't go any further than that. do you have another gauge assy you can test it on? I installed mine in this morning and it fit on the installed speedo in truck.

Did you take it back to the shop that did the work? That would be the first thing I would do. Let them look it over. Doesn't sound good.

Did you see my earlier post on how to fit your cable?

How long was your ca3068??............?..... The atp y-924 is 77" long. My original was 70" long.

I just received mine from Amazon today and it has the same nylon retainer. I have a spare gauge assy ( my truck ) and tested it on that and it fit great. Going to install it tomorrow and test it out. You push it on your speedometer ( as you have it now in your pic ) then slide the outer barrel toward the speedo and it locks it place. Looks familiar? Open position ( pulled back )

I'm going to order the atp y-924. my reason is at the balkamp web site matches the p/n that is listed in the illustration above for a 1988 is oem p/n 5300 9003 which interchanges ( I hope ) to a "atp y-924". your part may very well fit the same vehicle, the difference between the two p/n's is yours is 96" long vs 77" long and my cable was 70" long. I know I'm taking a small risk but I going to give it a shot. amazon has it for about $30 + shipping. read the reviews at amazon for this part atp y-924.

I'm starting to think that the 2 plastic types will fit the same speedometer head. my cable was fastened the same as yours ( above ), and it's been that way since 1988 hence the burned area.

I have seen the 2 types of plastic retainer clips ( in part illustrations between different replacement cables and my own ), but don't know what years they were used. my question is, does it really matter? the back of the gauge cluster between 87-90? have the same type of male fitting it seems.

Did some research on speedometer cables and found these jeep p/n's with discriptions and illustrations. https://cdn.xjjeeps.com/pdf/en-us/1988-to-1990-parts-catalog.pdf pages 723 and 724. I hope this is readable, I still trying to figure out this smartphone stuff. well I wasn't able to get it in the right position to read. anyway I put this up because 1. has original jeep P/N's and 2. they break it down to 4cyl or 6cyl, 2WD, 4WD, W or W/O cruise, and some with lengths. I've noticed that some part house's use jeep p/n's to indicate what they replace. some of these could be interchangeable with each other with only the difference being the length, I don't know. I posted this as a guide line to replacing a speedometer cable. as an example I pulled my speedometer cable out of my 1988 MJ 2WD, 6cyl and it measured out about 70 inches long which matches the description. but they're are 2 different P/N's, but have the same length.

When I upgraded my gauge cluster I noticed that my cable was in pretty bad shape due to the upper exhaust pipe, nice pic eh. I also included the my cluster attacthment pic too. I've poured over the Speedometer cable posts and noticed that there are 2 different plastic attachments. My question is this. Will both types of attachments fit an 1988 cluster? And just for the record my cable length is about 70-72 inches long. I'm pretty sure its original. This is on my MJ. Isn't that lovely. This one you squeeze the sides to together to release it vs the other plastic type with the levered release ( sorry no pics ). I getting ready to order a new cable and I'm just trying to as much info as I can get.

yea I saw that too, so I just now deleted it. didn't want to put up any bad advice. seems like they're pretty easy to find locally anyway.

excellent!

It seems simple but didn't want to do any more damage. Also need advice on door and lock retainers inside door. 1 broke, ( lock) and I suspect the others are just as brittle. Suggestions needed. The white retainer came from the lock rocker. 88 MJ

I changed the cts and that fixed the open loop signal and settled some of the other #'s as well. haven't been through DEQ yet but can tell it runs a 99% better. I still need to burb the cooling system too. I really appreciate the shared info I got to fix this rig, and have a much better understanding of the ecu system and how it works. also the REM was awesome to use to help with finding what was not correct. made it so much easier for me to understand a little better. thanks jdog for the simple explanation about the ecu system. sometimes I need it explained in to me in simple terms. appreciate that a lot. thanks to everybody for taking the time to chime in!

possible hookworm?...……………………………………….iic!k

do remember what your cts was reading? mine never read above 110 degrees. I have a new cts sensor NAPA p/n ts 5018 that I'm getting ready to put in. stay tuned.

That's a good point, it never was closed so it didn't matter what any other sensor was reading. So doe's that mean the the cts is the source of the problem? Or we looking at the ecu it self. What exactly controls the closed loop process? It was about 70 degrees out, maybe the heat generated by the hot engine caused the intake to get warm. after all the truck was stationary.

I'm starting to understand now. I didn't know that about the CTS. doesn't that MAT reading seem a little to high, 135-140 degree manifold air temp? that would cause the fuel to go lean, right? yea, had just checked that. good to know. doesn't that voltage apply to all the engine sensors?

before replacing the cts I would want to check the voltage supply. would it be battery voltage? or something else. thanks for replying

don't know where to start so I'll just start typing in my situation. I bought a engine analyzer from nickintimes web site to help me diagnose engine problems and I have a general idea of what I looking at but not sure where the problem is at or what its telling me. this is on my 88 MJ 4.0l, a/t, 2wd. recent tune-up, new o2 sensor. when I wrote down these readings the engine was at idle 750-800, engine water temp 195-205. MAP- 12" @ idle...………...10" @ partial throttle CTS- 170 degrees @ CTS …………………………... MAT- 135 degrees @ 195 temp...……………..141 degrees @ 205 temp...………...seems to high VLT- 12.5v on analyzer…………...13.5 @ battery Vo2- 2.09-4.50 +/-v...………………………………………………... EX- rich/lean...……....……….. Vht- 12.5v...…..oxygen sensor heater relay voltage LOOP- closed...…..engine warming up it went open/closed, but when engine @ operation temp it stayed in closed loop . EGR- closed/on...………….. TPS- 17 @ idle TH- closed.... throttle position IGN- 14 degrees @ idle KNO- 0...…….never changed ms- 6ms @ idle...…………..normal 4-8 ms %dc- 4.4% @ idle...………..normal 2-10% SYN- cycled between -/+ ST- stayed below 128 about 60 or so...….........……..short term fuel trim *LT- 128...……………………………...........................................................this # didn't change………………………………………...long term fuel trim * indicates things are out of the norm to me

found the draw! it turned to be the glove box light. a simple adjustment and now it turns off. the greatest part of this problem is I now know how to locate a parasitic draw. thanks CC members. Bryce

That makes sense, plus its not as bad as a short would be. A 194 bulb would be about 1.25 amps I think. Being a dome circuit its not so bad, just have to trace it down. Thanks

I'm chasing down a short on my 92xj and have gotten it down to the dome circuit group. the amp draw is a bout 1.25 amps. I know that the interior lights, power door locks, power mirrors?, keyless entry and not sure what else (I poured over every wiring diagram I could find). I want to test everything in the circuit but am not sure what the circuit feeds power to. the fuse is only 10 amps so it shouldn't be to heavy. there is a keyless module in the rig but there is no fob for it, how do you test a keyless system? also I have no power mirrors. the overhead lights all work but haven't checked all interior lights yet (glove, and etc). I just need to know what all was on the dome circuit, plus any advice too I can get too. Bryce

strange, couple days ago I had sifted through pages of posts trying to find any reference to keyless entry. just tried it now and low and behold all the results that were scattered through several pages, are now on the first page! I like it. maybe someone read my post and pulled some strings or something. but I'm still not impressed. BTW...….out of the blue about a month ago I started getting email notification emails again...………..sha na na na na na na na na na na na na naaa