a bum with money

I finished the my 4.0 cracked ex manifold, injector (746) upgrade project, and replaced the 2 piece motor mount. I can't believe how quiet it is now, and the smoother idle. Still need to make some tweeks, which I wanted to ask...... Assuming every thing is good tune up wise, can one just adjust the TPS till you get the desired idle? W/O a volt Meter? Isn't that all that your looking for in the TPS Adjustment? ALSO! One thing I would highly recommend when you have the fuel rail out. And that is to at least check the fuel pressure regulater o-ring. make sure you know when the last one was put in! When I first tested the system for gas leaks, it leaked like crazy out that joint. When I removed the regulater, the o-ring had shrunk and was flattened around the outside ( I think it was the original, 128k!). I just happened to have a extra injector o-ring and that took care of the leak. I'm assuming it was the same size o-Ring! Don't take any short cuts when doing this upgrade! I wanted to thank everyone for the great Advise! Couldn't have done it without your help.

I have a couple frozen screws (tps mount, butterfly set screw). I live in portland, oregon. someone nearby perhaps? don't mind getting one sent either. email me if any extras out there. bryce

I appreciate the feedback paradise. I guess I'm a little nervous about removing the spacer due to the fact that somewhere I read I that there not made any more. with that said, we wouldn't then be able correctly put it back together as you pointed out: ring, spacer, ring on both male ends w/lube and insert till it locks in place. I'm way more comfortable with this part of the job now. but I would add that this type of mechanism seems inherently problematic, not to mention somewhat dangerous. I'm going to do a follow up on how it went later for future do DIYrs! I really do appreciate the purpose of a site like this one. :bowdown: bryce

OK, starting to get the picture. When I look in the female end (stop laughing) on the fuel rail, I still see a spacer and a ring behind that. Your saying carefuly remove them and then put the new rings and spacer on the male ends, ring spacer ring.Then attach the fuel lines. the I guess that would also apply on the return side as well? sorry for being so detailed, but I really want to get this right. I would love to see some pics My plastic clips are still good. Bryce UPDATE: after inspection based on paradise's help. It looks like the spacer is a captive part of the two female parts of the fuel (pressure side and the return side). I also still have a ring behind those 2 spacers. I'm thinking that if replace the inner rings, and clean out any dirt, Then put the second ring on the male ends. Apply a lttle Vaseline on the Male ends, I will have the desired ring,spacer,ring w/lube and it will be ready to assemble and lock in place. Doe'so this sound Right? It makes sense to me. I need some conformation On this before I procede

great info! I found the injector seals and rail seal kit at napa. I'm still a little unclear as to rail o-ring placement. and when I do get it back together, you can bet I'll be checking for leaks after I push her out of the garage. and with the only the key on! if I run into trouble I'll be back. bryce

while I'm on the subject, I need a good used throttle body. mine the butterfly set screw is frozen as well as one of the tps screws (broke off). I really don't want to go to the junkyard where there probably a plenty. so if any of you have an extra let me know. I live in portland oregon, shoot me a price. bryce

gentleman I just replaced my exhaust manifold (cracked) and motor mount ( the rubber was in 2 pieces). and I ordered a set of 746 injectors. my problem is that when I pulled the fuel rail pressure and return lines off, 1 or 2 o-rings came out the pressure side (I think). I found one and I can't find the other. my first question is how many o-rings are in the pressure side as well as the return side? and is there a tech site or photos that I can go to, and can you still get these particular o-rings? I don't want to have any leaks! I would like to replace them. UPDATE: I found the second dropped 0-ring. (boy! how far the can roll.) 1988 manche 2wd 4.0 aw4 thanx for your imput Bryce

just watched his youtube video. very impressed and can't wait to see the end product, and I'm also going to watch his other video's as well. I've always kept a fuel log (pen & pad) to monitor mpg, but it doesn't tell me whats wrong (tire press, fuel, ignition, etc). and since the introduction of hei and sensors and the like, you needed a computer to check all those things.( well maybe not tires) In 1980 I used to manage a Texaco gas station with a garage. and the owner made the huge investment to buy a sun tester analyzer which cost around $17,000. it was about 6 feet tall and 5 feet wide it was huge! now you can buy a anaylizer at harbour freight for around a $100? just amazing!

I've used these guys in the past, have always been fair and honest with me. www.benzspring.com

has anyone tried benz springs here in portland ore? they handle alot of different brands and also re arcing too. they even do customs as well I think. I've bought and have had springs re arced with them in the past. they've been around for a long time. www.benzspring.com

my guess would be search tempest

love that jeep bench!! :thumbsup:

appreciate the advice dirty, and might I add I spent a couple of summers and winters in BC just west of prince George in Vanderhoof. great fishing! and hunting! bryce

well that puts a real damper in things! thanks

found them in the jeep repair manual download (that download sure comes in handy). while I was looking those numbers up, I noticed that the grand wagoner had 12" rotors instead of 11" on mj's (thicker too). and 11x2" drums instead of 10x1-3/4" on the mj's. (mine are 10x2-1/2") are these an easy swap out? bearings, seals, calipers, and such? maybe also a m/c as well? (bigger bore) anyone done this swap? or are there better swaps out there already. bryce

I admit it. I don't want to take the front/rear wheels off till I'm ready to do the brakes. but when I do i want the minimum thickness/dia. numbers. its a 88 2wd big ton w/ d44 rear dif a/t I know i have 2 x 21/2" rear brakes and I'm pretty sure the front rotors are all the same size. I know that the min thickness/dia. is stamped on the rotor/drum somewhere but I thought I would cheat and rely on the pro's of the jeep forum. :brows: I want to go with riveted rears, can anyone suggest a good pad/shoe material? daily driver, I seldom pull a trailer (4x8 utility) I plan on keeping this rig for a while. bryce

that makes a lot of sense, being that the pressure inside the manifold is greater than outside. that neighbor I mentioned also has a wire welder too, I've seen some of his work on a xj project he's been working on, not bad. mmmmmmm......... bryce

much smoother! just topped off the tank to see what the mileage will be. tomorrow morning will be a cold start, but I know it will be turn key :crossfingers: yea, still will have to deal with the small crack in the ex man. It just so happens my neighbor has a 89 mj, and makes frequent trips to the local yards. I think I'll tag along! this really puts my mind at ease, now I can focus on some other more minor issues to deal with, oil adapter upgrade HO, brakes shoes, front stabilizer bushings, p/brake you know, the usual stuff. thanks for the tips! was very helpful. reading the forum posts really takes a lot of the mystery out of taking on the bigger jobs. :brows: bryce

the above post is where I started, today I installed a new o2 sensor (less than 5 min.) and headed down to DEQ to do an emissions test ( 5th time!) and passed! :banana: I went from a HC 160 to 21 and a CO of 5.0 to .05! first I want to thank everyone here for the expert advice on possible fixes.and the methods of approaching the problem. :bowdown: since I had did the last tune-up, I knew that that was not the problem, next I checked the vacuum lines and found that the small plastic lines were old and brittle as it turned out there were small leaks. replaced all the vacuum assy. 60$ (both halves) and checked all other vacuum lines as well. no more leaks. then and only then! did I starte to doing the sensor checks as perscribed in cruisers54 renix tips http://www.cruiser54.com/ it only took me about an hour to check all the checks I did in my original post. after all that, then I replaced the o2 sensor #ntk 23553 at rockauto.com 47$ shipped not only did I not waste time and money, I also learned a little more about the renix jeep for it! I can't say it enough, DO CRUISER54's TIPS FIRST!!!!!! you will be a better jeep owner. here's to the helpfull members of this club! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: bryce

been following this thread now since its getting educational, one of my week points is 12VDC. with that being said, would the same math apply on anything? pulling low/high voltage? my reason for asking is my t/s have always been a little slow (in my opinion anyway). if I check voltage at the 1157/1156 socket ( or at any end point for that matter) that will give me the necessary info to diagnose a problem, bad wire, ground, small wiring, and etc.( if one exists) It would seem that 12.5 VDC would be the norm? not including lower voltages of course. :) bryce

interesting.... am more interested in the FM end of things. I can't even use the full AM dial, its either sports or politics on AM! no music. will check it out. thanx bryce

not to sound like an idiot, you cut-out the old plug and splice in the leads from the h/l switch. correct?

damn!!! :fs2: well would've been a great add. thanx Minuit

saw a factory am/fm/cd, 10 cd changer with all stock hook ups for sale for 75$. pulled from a wrangler, seller says it will fit cherokee too. wanted to get unbiased opinion as to will it fit 88 mj w/stock am radio before I get in touch w/seller. (I'm really tired of am only). Bryce and if not what other jeep years can I look for?

I like how you guys made it clear as to how to diy instructions, especially the drawn wiring diagram. :thumbsup: but why is the second rh socket (old) still in the loop? wouldn't that be eliminated? :???: bryce