a bum with money

I will get the new o2 sensor in a couple days and will go ahead and install it. and if I fail again I just might get some jb weld and do a temporary fix just to get thru DEQ (going to be a b*@$£ getting up in there!) :crossfingers: I have already started the hunt for a good used renix ex manifold, and may just get a set of reman. injectors since I have the manifolds off. 700,710, or 746's. really appreciate the advice so far, A big thanx to the comanche club members! :clapping: Bryce

I like that idea. :Canadaflag: didn't think that was a viable option, assuming the metal is thick enough still. after looking at the crack again you might be able to add a gusset between 5&6 pipe and another gusset under to stiffen it up. :smart: the flex section I've seen pic's of, is that something that is welded in (flange,etc) or just cut out a section of pipe and add a couple of hd hose clamps? :dunno: bryce

we have crackage in the exhuast manifold! :mad: climbed under jeep today with flashlight in tow and sure enough saw a hairline crack at the joint (near collector) back tube. saw a lot of replacement headers online and a lot of opinions. and was wondering.... I plan on keeping this jeep for a while, was considering header back to muffler replacement, didn't want to go top shelf, didn't want to go crap either, and being this is a 2wd drive and a daily driver and stock condition. what would be a good way to go. I plan on doing the manifold work myself. can you get bolt on quality exhaust pipes,cat,muffler and what not? thanx for the advice, been very helpful. :bowdown: bryce

What brand spark plugs are you using? Anything gimmicky? Your O2 sensor test is not a good one to rely on. Do the NTK O2 sensor. I.m running ngk's nice tan color no carbon/oil build-up ordered ntk 23553 o2 sensor from rock auto. 47$ w/shipping 85$ local yikes! my sense on this is to replace the o2 sensor and move on from there :crossfingers: thanks for the o2 sensor tip :thumbsup: Bryce I will post the results as I narrow down the fix and addon to this thread just in case anyone else has the same or similar problems. any thoughts on a leaky exhaust man./pipe near the o2 sensor causing a misread for the ecu on A/F ratio's? would that even be an issue?

I'll bet that on those 265 acres you have a very nice size shop too (very jealous), as well as wide open country to run with open pipes! :thumbsup: would a exhaust leak in the exhaust man and/or pipe near the o2 sensor cause the ecu to misread the a/f ratio? I have a small exhaust leak under the hood somewhere. haven't checked it out yet, but was just curious. :doh:

thanks for the input guys. were going to do the obvious first. o2 sensor it is. cheaper than new injectors..... for now. :help:

good ole Boring Oregon, not quite far enough away to escape deq, but far enough away to escape Portland. :cheers: you know that is what I was thinking too, I read somewhere that the o2 sensor should be replaced at 82k +/-. there not that expensive either about 60$ or so. any particular brand? there are several. what about leaking injectors? how would you check? :???: any opinions on remanufactured injectors ? anybody?

hi m8's! :waving: been dealing with this for 6 months now. I have a 88 mj 2wd a/t, 4.0, big ton, 125k miles city mpg 16, 4000mi since last tune up cap,roter,plugs, and wires my most recent emissions test (oregon): failed in the CO catagory. 1 is the std, tested 4.9 (idle). 5.0 (2500rpm) non dyno. hc 220 is the std, tested 160, CO+CO2 tested 10.6 (not sure what the CO+CO2 is). these are the things I've tested so far. all grounds- good egr valve- good egr sol.- good map sensor- good 5 volts in and out @sensor mat sensor- good < 800 ohms warm) cps sensor- good 222 ohms cts sensor- good (inline w/mat sensor) o2 sensor- good? tested w/ohms meter +/- 100, not infinity reading feul injector resistance- good 17.5 ohms/ all 6 tps sensor- good tested w/ohms meter, .72 closed/ 4.75 wto.+/- recently replaced vacuum tree (both sides) did fix some vacuum leaks,( but failed emissions after fix) the truck starts right up and idles great! If anything it has a slight rough idle but not bad, and idle might fluctuate slightly. all things I could live with. still has the original injectors, and for all I know sensors too. I didn't want replace the injectors without good reason. I also haven't checked anything on the ecu, uncharted territory! would welcome any ideas ( or criticisms either) on others things like kick, spit on, hold tongue left or right :???: Bryce

great! w/o a pix are you sure its the right brkt?. I wouldn't be surprised if it's a commen brkt. my jeep is all stock. how do you want to handle this? whats the usual process?

snapped the head off the bolt doh!! 1988 comanche 2wd, no a/c 4.0 l6 don't have any pix's but it's the top most bolt on the brkt, I was in the process of replaceing the serpitine belt. the truck is still able to drive but......... any one have this p/s brket. I'm not sure what years this brkt was used on, but would really be greatful if anyone can spare one. another thing is why am I not able to post anything in the for sale forum?

after looking at that 91 comanche w/ a backseat, it looks like a kit add-on kit to me. the two are the same, right? I like it. long bed frame? removed back cab wall? moved the front box wall back? I don't know very much spanish, but it looks a car lot? or perhaps a rental agencey?

http://articulo.tucarro.com.ve/MLV-455374069-jeep-cherokee-_JM I hope I got the site right. a comanche with a back seat.

I've done a couple of those tips as they came up (vc gasket for one ). but this is my only truck and I'm currently driving with expired tags as of 12/15. It actually runs pretty good, but I did notice a little drop in mpg. I would be more comfortable to have a experienced mechanic to get it thru deq (emission test) for now. then deal with upgrading the system later. but if no local talent can be found here in pdx then I will be careful not tear,strip,or break anything. I've downloaded all the parts & service manuals from this site and plan to familliarize myself with the fuel system before I tackle some of this. If this were a carburator and it was running to rich (which is what I think is going on here) I would know what to look for. I'm a bit of an old school mechanic I'm afraid. my first rig was a 1950 1/2t chevy I bought for $75! I've been to prescott, az. its a beautiful little city, it reminded me of a few central oregon towns.

assuming were talking about 1157 bulbs,I had this proplem on my 88 when I first bought it. It turned out that the bulb contacts were'nt making contact with the socket contacts after the (push in and turn lock). I didn't buy new pig tails but its on the list. I have no idea how they got that way in the first place. also there was alot of old dried grease that had to be removed too. cheers!

howdy boys and girls, I've been reading some of the articles here on this site. great stuff. once upon a time I worked at a amc dealership up in fairbanks, ak parts dept. before dodge took over (early 80's). I spent most of my time working at ford parts. I'm looking for a jeep mechanic here locally that is familliar with the renix systems. I keep failing our local emissions test in the CO dept. not that familliar with fuel injection systems. any local jeep mechanics in the club that live in the portland, ore area? or know of a shop? . it was this site that was a deciding factor in purchasing my first jeep this past year. ( this at least my 50th vehicle owned since 1973 ) cheers!

1988 base mdl, big ton, 2wd 4.0 L6, a/t, d44 locker, long bed color: white w/black trim. no chrome! options: p/s, p/b, towing pkg mileage: 123,000 +/- (as of 1/ 2016 my purchase date: 6/ 2015 this was a maintinance truck for the city of lake Oswego, ore. it was originaly equipped to run on propane or cng fuel. not sure which. this is my contractor truck now (self-employed). I don't have any pic's to offer up as there is not much to look at. but it runs great! it's also my first jeep, so I'm still getting familiar with it. and canopies are not easy to find!!