Big Dan

No, you will need a 4wd transmission. The 2wd and 4wd versions are different.

Its the brake proportioning valve, its disconnected.

And, a pre 1990 YJ 2.5L manifold should be the same thing, correct?

Good evening, Ive googled, rockauto-ed and searched here, with no luck. Does anyone know of a site that sells an intake manifold for the 2.5 TBI? I'm having an incredibly difficult time locating one. Thanks in advance.

bump

I sent you a PM about the brackets. No need for a picture now. I appreciate it, though. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Hypoid's pictures show the alternator at a 45 degree angle Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

That's what hypoid's post shows. If you can get a picture, I'd like to see how the alternator mounts to the compressor. I picked up some brackets for a 4.2 yj and that got me really close. However, the alternator is directly on top of the compressor, which doesn't leave enough room for the hood to close. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Tracking. I am sticking with the v belt configuration. I'm just trying to figure out a way to mount a compressor.

Can you provide more pictures of how the alternator is mounted to the compressor/compressor support? Ive found some brackets to mount everything similar to how it is routed in your v belt example. However, the alternator sits directly on top of the compressor, instead of offset at 45 degree angle. This doesn't leave enough room for the hood to close.

This video could help https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGTLt5SJtB8

Bump Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Photos of both side of the engine, if that assists. I just test fitted, the bracket that holds the compressor doesn't come close to fitting in the P/S area. Have you all tried any of the brackets on Jeepair? Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Ill start out by saying that I am not in front of my truck, currently, so I cannot provide pictures of the engine bay. I can do so later, if needed (I'm sure it will be). In the mean time, I'm hoping someone has a working idea of this or has done it, themselves. My 86 2.5L uses a vbelt. I do not have AC (obviously) or power steering, so the routing looks like this - The 2.5L that came with AC from the factory, as my FSM states, came with a serpentine belt. So, everything I've read as far as routing will not work for me. I am looking for ideas as to how to mount the compressor. Below is the proposed idea, but I'm guessing all of the bracketry that I have found will not fit properly if mounted on the drivers side (subbing the p/s pump for the compressor). First off, do any of you all think that the factory compressor bracket can be made to work on the drivers side of the engine, as pictured above and subbing the p/s pump? If not, what suggestions do you all have on mounting the compressor?

I guess not.

I went with hellcreek and I am very satisfied.

I installed the C2C floorboard pans in mine. I was generally pleased. It did take some beating, in some areas, to fit correctly. I also purchsed the pans in two sections per side (front left, back left, front right, back right) to assist in the fitment issue.

They ended up being bad, but, its definitely possible that I gummed them up on install.

Got it fixed! And, now, I'm embarrassed. It was a combo of the thermostat and peanuts in the new radiator (IDIOT). Flush out the radiator and the peanuts that the shipper used somehow got jammed in the top of the radiator...that took a while to get out. After that, it STILL was not cooling correctly. I replaced the thermostat for the third time...and it finally worked.

that would make sense if he had the issue before rad swap. if your water pump was failing. revving it to 3500 rpm and allowing more coolant to flow would drop the temps back down. sounds like you have a faulty new rad like hornbrod said. doesnt hurt to replace the water pump, but if the problem persist's then it is the new rad. Ill give a new radiator a try and report back. Thanks for the help fellas.

That is correct, the lower radiator hose is operating correctly. I have not used stop leak and the coolant looked good (no sludge). Same radiator thickness.

Well, it boiled over today. The temp gauge was reading 250 at idle and the IR thermometer read 205. I figured that it must be reading incorrectly. After a quick 2 mile trip, I returned home and the gauge had gone up to the max line. After popping the hood, coolant was coming out from the cap on the reservoir and the IR thermometer read 260 at the thermostat housing. I guess changing the water pump is all that is left. But, as I said, it doesnt make sense, since coolant is flowing.

No, it does not boil over

Yes sir, that's correct. Unfortunately, I'm an idiot and tossed the old radiator as soon as I replaced it. Edit - I bought an ir thermometer to test that out tomorrow. My gauge has acted weird before and it might have gotten worse . Previously, the gauge would read correctly with engine running, but if the key was in just the on position, it would max out. Maybe it finally crapped.

I've done everything I can think of. As mentioned previously, I've tried parking on a hill as well as removing the sending unit. I also tried squeezing all of the hoses to help air burp out.