Big Dan

When you can, DM me your address. I'll box it up and get a shipping price.

Does anyone want/need a 2.5l renix flywheel? I don't need it and it's just taking up space. I'll send it to you for the price of shipping. If not, I'll just toss it out. Please take it. Shipping from KY.

I've still got one as well.

What else is out there besides General Spring and Hell Creek?

Same. The clunking that I have is the tail gate. Worth looking into, OP.

Thread revive here - I know the "throw away the Luk bearing" (or insert brand of composite bearing) is always said. I'll put one in for the camp of the provided bearing. I haven't had any issues with the Luk one. Currently going on 3 years. When I did my external slave swap, I actually bought a timken, and a national bearing, to compare to the provided one. National was gritty and off center. Luk and Timken looked fine. I ended up just trying the Luk. Point being - anecdotal, but, just check out what you have and make your decision from there.

I'm behind in seeing this. Prayers for his family. This is terrible to hear.

I do

GOODMARK GMK2111749681 will work for j-bolts. Available on rockauto.

Anyone have any luck locating a source?

I was not so lucky. I had a Bosch O2 sensor that lasted about 6 months. I was able to find a NOS Mopar sensor, ran that, and havent had issues. That's, obviously, only one case.

84-96 Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

It's not made. I bought xj hoses and cut them to length. It will work. Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

That's it. Glad it was found. He's a good guy, I've had no issues with transactions. Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Someone on here 3d prints them. I'll see if I can find the info. Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Hopefully this works better, for you, than it did for me. I replaced all of the o-rings and still had a small leak from there. Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Yes Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Knock sensor Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

http://cruiser54.com/?p=280 Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Question for whoever reads this. This is in relation to my earlier comment about a feathery light clutch pedal. How stiff does your clutch pedal feel? Prior to the pressure plate, throw out bearing replacement, mine felt like any normal jeep. Now, while the clutch still engages at about half pedal travel, there is almost no resistance, in the pedal, it seems. It is the lightest clutch I've had experience with. EDIT - for reference, relatively new pre-bled Mopar Master/slave cylinder combo utilized. It was on for, perhaps, 100 miles prior to the clutch change. Clutch felt normal prior to work on transmission. I state that to, potentially, rule out air in the line.

Same concept. With the caliper off, there isn't anything holding the pad there, outside of corrosion Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

If your caliper is off, then I would assume that the pad is siezed to the knuckle, because its just sitting there, without the caliper. Give it a few smacks. Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Clutch hydraulics hooked back up...and everything works fine. That would, almost 100%, make the the missing transmission bolts (and subsequent partial tranny separation) the culprit. I had a bag full of 3/8-16 X 1 1/2" . As I read that was the appropriate size/length for the e12 bolts, I went ahead and put those in. Different threads mention 3/8” x 16 x 1 7/8” as the "other" upper bolts. I don't have any of those on hand, so I'll need to source at least one. However, I can't figure this out - Are the other 3/8" bolts supposed to have a nut like the 7/16" ones do? If the are supposed to have one, that would explain the missing driver's side 3/8 bolt. Please let me know either way. I also need to source a starter bolt. I am missing the lower one. I have read that it is, also, supposed to be 3/8-16 X 1 1/2". I'm not out at the shop now, but, Ill confirm that in a few days, when I return home. If that is NOT the appropriate bolt, if someone can let me know it would be greatly appreciated so I can go on and have it on hand. FINALLY - I don't know if it was the transmission partially separating OR the fact that the correct pressure plate is now present...but the clutch pedal is feather light. It still begins to engage/disengage at half travel, but there seems to be so much less resistance than before. It will take a little bit to get used to.

New clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing installed. I'm short on time due to family obligations, so, I havent hooked up the clutch hydraulics yet. However, started engine, in gear and output shaft end turns. So, that's all good to go. No weird noises or anything. So, will hook up clutch hydraulics, tonight, and see if I will be sad or not. Ps - holy F. Getting the trans back in is a nightmare Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

It took a little while. Sensors tested out. Took the transmission out and was hoping to see something visibly broken, just so I could narrow this down. Unfortunately, from that perspective, everything looks good. Throwout bearing is still smooth. Pilot bearing looks good. But, I'll take the clutch off to confirm. I did, however, notice that both top bolts, on the transmission, and the 3/8 bolt on the drivers side were missing. I suppose I didn't torque them down properly. Perhaps the transmission was working loose and that was the issue. I didn't see a visible gap, but, it's a theory. I'm going to go ahead and replace the clutch/pressure plate since I'm in here, and, because it's the part for a ba 10/5. I'm open to suggestions as to causes. Would a small transmission separation be possible even with both bottom bolts and the drivers side bolt present? Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk