Tex06

Sounds like your vent line is disconnected or broken. Very common in older vehicles, basically the air is being blown behind the dash instead of out the vents. If you can, look under or feel under for the loose line, sometimes you can hook then back up. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Good thinking! Definitely don't want to cut or disturb that... You can reroute it if necessary. Either change the hose (easier, might be finicky to fill like some flatbed trucks) or fill in the hole in the fender and put it somewhere cool like in the bed or behind the license plate. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Lol, like tubbing a hot rod in reverse! I like it! If the tires at full flex won't hit it shouldn't be an issue. I would check for the fuel neck from the gas tank and see if it'll need to be rerouted. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Or for simplicity, swap in a set of H4 bulbs and snap comparison pics. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Before you condemn the solenoid, any idea what the voltages are supposed to be? Could be a corroded connection dropping voltage to the solenoid. Multimeter should make that a quick test at the plug. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Looking to upgrade my headlights from stock finally and I think LEDs are the way to go as far as power draw and light output. Found Don's writeup using the GE Nighthawks which run $180/side for a total of $360 in lights up front. Ouch. I found these mentioned in a review of the Nighthawks (someone didn't like the GE bulbs and went with these instead) and was wondering if anyone had used these or something similar to them: https://www.amazon.com/156005-Sealed-Headlight-Conversion-6-Inches/dp/B01ID0N1BI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478202842&sr=8-3&keywords=AVEC+Luxx+LED They're only $120 for the pair and are drop in replacements. Before I make the jump, just wanted to see if anyone else had!

Whoops, second post. Counting is hard..... Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Read my first post, down at the bottom. :D Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Alternator wiring ok? My alternator pin was burned up giving me fluctuating voltage (caused by bad grounds I believe but made my problems much worse). Kind of a long shot, I know. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I meant at one time he (or someone before him) could have changed things around. Remember, it's a Jeep. People modify these things ;) Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

X2. They're notorious for being inaccurate in almost every car ever produced. A lot of higher end timing lights have tachs built-in. If you can find a timing light these days, lol. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Easiest way is to clock your speed with a GPS, note the RPMs, find your tire diameter (28.88 inches), and count that gear you're in. Then figure it all out. I use the garage buddy app, makes it all easy. Just remember overdrive is .75 for the AW4. 3rd gear is 1:1. Another possibility, OD works 4.56 gears(4.56*.75 OD is 3.42), previous owner had 32" tires on it and corrected for it. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Or 3.55 with 33" tires if it's not going into OD Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Previous owner could have changed out the gear (or however the tranny relays the speed info) to correct the speedo. You should use your phone or a GPS and check the accuracy of it.

Count your shifts. Should see your tach drop on each one. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Borrowed from another jeep site, Cruiser's test is outlined for Renix CPSs as the second test. TESTING PROCEDURE 1991 – 2001 4.0L H.O. engines 1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness. 2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (SEE Image). Ohmmeter should be set to 1K-to-1OK scale for this test. 3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if a low resistance is indicated. TESTING PROCECURE for 1987 – 1990 4.0 L engines Test # 1 - Get a volt/ohm meter and set it to read 0 - 500 ohms. Unplug the CPS and measure across the CPS connector's A & B leads. Your meter should show a CPS resistance of between 125 - 275 ohms. If the CPS is out of that range by much, replace it. Test # 2 - You will need a helper for this one. Set the volt/ohm meter to read 0 - 5 AC volts or the closest AC Volts scale your meter has to this range. Measure across the CPS leads for voltage generated as your helper cranks the engine. (The engine can't fire up without the CPS connected but watch for moving parts just the same!) The meter should show .5 - .8 VAC when cranking. (That's between 1/2 and ~1 volt AC.) If it's below .5 VAC, replace it. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

CPS, TPS....the alphabet all looks the same late at night. Whoops. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Can Renix TPSs be tested like an HO? If so, I'd recommend you get 2 paperclips and do that ASAP. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Try napa. Their CPS worked better for me. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

From what I understand, the alternator cable is the most important one to upgrade since it sees the highest amps when the alternator is charging the system (after starting, using a winch, left the headlamps on for a late night football game, etc...). Might want to look into getting that one in particular upgraded!

Yep, I removed it completely. The big plastic connector is hot though, correct? Do I need to tape it off for water intrusion? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

My new cables are installed and look great! Had a little hiccup with the alternator, the new lug wouldn't fit inside the insulator on the 130A alternator but a little dremel work fixed that right up. Before (doesn't fit) After (now fits awesome! ) Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Power distribution center. The black plastic thingy with all your fuses in it. Sits right behind your battery and the hot lead is attached to the front of it under a little cover. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk (I did the same thing until I saw a picture.)

Thanks Don, I'll look again! Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

So it's supposed to be connected to the back of the temp slider thingy? I like the idea of the 97+ hose upgrade (even though I already spent $7 on tubing, lol) but want to make sure to plug this off to prevent vacuum leaks. The vacuum hose is so shot that anytime I touch it it just crumbles so plugging it in the engine bay isn't an option. Edit: Guess I should also mention that I didn't see it in the place I just referenced. I'll take a pic tomorrow in the daylight, but the back of the A/C control panel looks to be purely electronic, no vacuum. Re-Edit: If anyone has pictures that would be awesome!

Pulled this off another forum, Neal drew it up: