Tex06

Light is still on when other dash lights are off. :/ Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

It's OK, that'll work great for my MJ! Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Replaced most of my dash lights with LEDs. Love the way it looks but my shift up light is constantly on now. Not bright, but very dim. When I need to shift it gets brighter like it should. Figure I have a bad ground, any idea where to start? Pics kinda suck because bumpy road and night shot Dim: Bright: Bright but pothole, lol: Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

You can buy rebuild kits or new ones and transfer the seals. If you're careful :D Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Careful welding to brakes. Welding fluid is pretty flammable stuff. I've had success in the past removing the wheel and carefully heating the bleeder screw (just the screw, not the caliper in disc or brake cylinder on drum) then removing it very slowly with vise grips. After it breaks free let it cool. You'll need new bleed screws if you do this though. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

He means the brake pedal. Does it go to the floor (or almost) really easy? Or does it feel stiff when you step on it? Brakes have to be bled of air when you work on them because air is compressible. YouTube "How to bleed brakes". It's pretty much the same on any common car, truck, or suv. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Oh boy, hope you find the issue. My 92 started that way and after months of troubleshooting (problem was intermittent and sometimes left the truck undriveable) it turned out to be a bad electrical connection. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I think he was thinking the sump was above the oil. In which case spinning it wouldn't help, lol. I like the dump some oil method and then hit it with the drill. Feels like the best of both worlds. While we're all here, anyone have a convincing reason for a high volume pump on a stock engine? I like the idea for a high performance motor but if I have to tweak the oil pan I can't see why the extra time and effort (cost is about the same for melling) would be worth it. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Not in this corner of the world. At least, not when I was crewing on the stock car. Even a new engine that we knew had assembly lube on the cam, cam bearings, crank and rod bearings, and cylinder walls got the oil pump spun over with a drill until we had positive oil pressure. Until we saw oil pressure, the engine was only cranked over by hand. Much tighter tolerances there. On a engine not meant for racing in the pre-fuel injection era things were different. My shop manual for the 235 cid 6 cylinder and 283 SBC both say to prime a new pump this way. Granted this was written close to 60 years ago. Things have changed a lot since then. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Slamming definitely necessary sometimes, lol! Yep, first thing I did. Topped off with junk oil (10w-30 strone brand) just to make sure it wasn't below the pickup. I'm just used to Fords and Chevys that you can turn over with the starter to prime the pump. Running with a starter isn't going to move it enough to seriously harm anything. The motor wasn't going to catch with bad fuel (and possible bad pump). This method is the most common way to prime SBC and small block Ford motors, just pull the coil wire. I fished a piece of baling wire down there and it came up dry. I'll have to try the compressed air trick if I can get a portable air compressor next time I get to work on the thing. My problem was NO pressure or even a dribble, usually a blockage like that (in most hydraulic systems) gives a partial block.

Along the same lines, they have a PermaDry and a PermaDry Plus valve cover gasket. First is rubber, second is silicone. Is silicone worth the extra $2? Both are steel cored.

Thanks guys. Turns out Summit does have the Fel-pro in stock....it doesn't show up under "Jeep Oil Pan Gasket". When I searched for "Fel-pro Jeep" it came right up. Same price too!

I know everyone on the internet says use the Fel-pro blue gasket but Summit doesn't carry them. Does anyone have experience with the Victor Reinz gasket from them? It's molded silicone, unsure if it has a steel core or not. I did read somewhere that they tend to be very stiff so that leads me to believe they do. Just was wondering if anyone had any experience before I bought it. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vri-os32118/overview/make/jeep/model/cherokee

It's essentially a flathead screwdriver for a drill, roughly 12-14 inches long. Did I miss something on how to prime the 4.0? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

So not like the old GM pumps that you could just crank over. I've got an oil prime extension from Summit racing for sbc motors, I bet it'll work on Jeeps. Gotta drop the tank anyways and get that old fuel out. Throwing in a new FP should be a piece of cake and save me troubleshooting later on. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Just inherited an '89 xj (4.0, Aw4, no idea on axles yet) and it's been sitting over 8 years. Popped a new battery in it yesterday and cranked on it (no start, that's OK) Good news: Turned over, no fires, all the lights and electrics seem ok Bad news: oil pressure didn't register after 2-3 20 second cycles of the starter. Popped off the oil pressure sending unit (below distributor, right? ) and had my buddy crank on it. No oil coming out. Question, was this a valid test for a faulty oil pump? If so, what kind of job is it to drop the pan and replace? Also, when I cycle the key on I don't hear the fuel pump cycle like my '92. I'll attach a fuel pressure gauge next time but I'm pretty sure that means new Bosch pump time. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Used 4 bottles on my 8ft chevy bed, kinda thin in some parts but most of it got a good two coats and I did wrap the lip down about an inch. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

If you wanna carb it, go for it. I recently swapped in a 355 in place of an oddfire V6 into a Buick Skylark. Went with carbs because it's cheaper (yes, even in the long run) and they're easy to work on. Most likely you have a mild built motor and a 600-650 cfm carb is all you need. The most common issue people have with sbc motors is over carbing and over camming them. If you're unsure, get as much info about the motor as you can (cam specs, displacement, valve sizes, head volume, intake type, piston type) and go to your local speed shop or hot rod builder. Offer to take the oldest mechanic there to lunch in exchange for advice on your motor. Lay it all out and see what he recommends. Carbs, like anything else get real expensive when you don't know what you're doing. I recommend edelbrock because they're super easy to rebuild and tune. Not as efficient as holley or quadrajet but easier to deal with and more forgiving to mistakes. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Don, mind taking another picture but zoomed out a little? I'd like to see how the wiring is routed now. Thanks! Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

The 4.0 has two coolant temperature sending units. One of them is in the front at the thermostat, pretty easy to see. This one sends the temp to the ECU. The second is on the driver's side in the very back, by the valve cover. Kinda in the same spot as the firewall ground. Looks like the one above in 91 I'm told, mine looked like the 93 cherokee version. Both are single wire sending units. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk 92+ sending unit Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk As it looks on the 92+. Same location as yours, different color. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk (Borrowed image from cherokee forum!)

Ground the cable to the engine block or the grounding strap from the firewall. What does the gauge read when you do this? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Fix the exhaust leak? My '92 had a bad one when I bought it....as in the previous owner had disconnected the header from the rest of the exhaust. Smelled like it was always running rich (O2 sensor always saw a "lean" condition due to no exhaust). Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Also, I'm not sure how applicable it is here with the 4.0 but certain exhaust systems do have a scavenging effect. This essentially pulls the exhaust from the cylinder, a leak in the header could cause fresh air to be pulled in, also causing the O2 to read lean. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Here's what I used: Pumpkins: Walmart brand rear end dope (80w-140 I think....whatever was cheapest) Transfer case: ATF Ax-15: Valvoline Synpower 75w-90. I'm particular about this due to the yellow metal that make up the synchros. More info on that here: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2554764 Also, make sure your radiator is full for the temp gauge. Should be able to ground the connection to the block and see you gauge max out (tests the wiring from sensor to gauge that way). Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

If you look in this picture you can see the hose Don and I mentioned. Make sure it's connected (I like the rtv idea to make it stick) Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Picture? I'm curious if your vents are different than the 92 Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk