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Everything posted by Tex06
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Is there any reason why we don't host pictures on the forum? I've found the little dance I end up doing (write-up on laptop, post, log-in with tapatalk on phone, install pics into thread with phone, refresh with laptop and organize pictures accordingly) fun but it would be much easier to upload straight from the PC. Thanks!
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Everyone hates the torx bolts holding our doors in (and if you don't....just keep quiet and play along). I went ahead and bought some flange bolts to replace all of mine from boltdepot.com...cost me about $15.60 because I bought 2 sets. Metric flange bolts, Full thread (DIN 6921), Zinc plated class 10.9 steel, 8mm x 1.25mm x 30mm and Metric flange bolts, Full thread (JIS B1189), Zinc plated class 10.9 steel, 8mm x 1.25mm x 35mm Couldn't decide on which style I wanted. I'll hopefully install this afternoon and post up some pics.
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Found another! https://www.facebook.com/groups/553063848131666/
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I'm in Baton Rouge somewhat permanently now, any members within a few hours? If so, know anywhere to wheel? I just swapped in a new tranny and I need to "Trail-rate" it :D There's a local Jeep club here and they all look at me like I'm Voo-doo for having an MJ, lol. This is some serious Wrangler country....at least most of them agree that real jeeps have 2 doors!
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Already did with the acetone rag and let sit for 5-10 min rewetting every min or so. I'll give MEK a try but this stuff has been on for years. I know its about as bad as xylene, that stuff made me hallucinate once! Also the acetone and paint thinner both made a little green wipe off onto the towel. Just didn't actually remove the paint even with soaking/vigorous scrubbing.
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^^ Yup! New cars might look flashy, but you lose money as soon as it drives off the lot. I paid $3200 for my MJ and while yes I have put another $2000 into it, I had an offer for $5000 the other day on the street. And I've gotten 2 years of use nearly out of it! Same with my '86 K30. Sure it might only get 15 mpg....but insurance is only $106/year and it's still worth exactly what I paid for it 5 years ago. What's a 2011 Chevy 3500 Diesel worth today vs. new? Plus insurance payments!
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Not that I know of. "What makes this work is the computer and the Split Second fuel control unit... that lets the main computer see positive boost pressures and respond appropriately. Without that, when the vacuum gets to zero, the stock engine fuel control unit would shut down." From the seller. Looks like the split second computer modifies the signal the ECM gets rather than a reprogram. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
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I work in a machine shop. Where would one find said specs for shape? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
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Yeah, just be prepared to have everyone born from 1970-1983 stop you and tell you about their first car the Fiero and how much they love it. I see them for under $1000 all the time near Atlanta. Just be careful of the '84 and '85 models, they had fire issues. Easy fix (I mean come on, you're a jeep guy) but make sure it's done if you get one. Corollas are damn hard to kill, I'll second that. An ex of mine had a manual with over 200k on it, ran great! Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
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First step is complete, you're registered here! Next, change all your fluids and giv'er a good cleaning inside and out. For two reasons. 1) makes finding leaks much easier 2) this thread is worthless without pics! Welcome to the club! Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
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This is for sale and not mine. I'm actually considering throwing out an offer (he says it gets 23mpg! ). Anybody here have experience with this setup? Anything I should be cautioned over? http://www.ebay.com/itm/291999592486 Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
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Yep, was like $50 with the 20% off online order coupon. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
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There's a couple great forums that have checklists for folks thinking about buying one. Print it out and take it with when you go look at them. This is probably true of nearly any car over 10 years old now that I think about it. ^if only this wasn't true..... Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
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Following. I just pulled my flywheel and replaced with an Advance Auto one. Wanted to get mine resurfaced and keep....
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The A/C controls, check engine light, up shift, and 4x4 lights are all 37.
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Pshhh.....newbs! If you're cool with 2 seats, want RWD, a decent trunk, fantastic handling, good to great gas mileage (20-36mpg depending on motor), and very very customizable (maybe more so than any other car), reliable, and easily available for under $5000, look no further! Can you guess what it is? Not Toyota. Not Honda. Definitely not European. Think domestic. Think cool. Think Pontiac. That's right, the Miata killer on the track, the Fiero! I've got an '88 GT and not only is it a blast to drive, it gets great mileage and super easy to get parts for. The 4-cyl models (I'd suggest '86-'88) get awesome mileage with the 4 or 5 speed manual transmission and the V6s get mid-20s and are a total blast to drive.
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I think he scuffed the clear then hit it with spray. I was able to chip a little off with a pressure washer, gonna try the 3200 psi unit at work this week if time allows. I'll give graffiti remover a shot, I hadn't thought of that.
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For everything I've got into this truck so far. Meh, it wouldn't make any sense at this point I'd end up with just a vomit of pictures and half explanations. Anyways, anyone here have ideas on how to remove a spraybomb paint job without going to bare metal? I've tried lacquer thinner, paint thinner, acetone, all to no avail. The previous owner (one of 'em anyways) rattle canned the entire truck green....just not the same green as stock. I wanna get a single stage urethane with hardener but have to remove all this lacquer or acrylic or whatever Rust-Oleum is (could be Wal-Mart brand, you never know!). I'm trying to chemically strip the spray paint off without damaging the original coating too much and really REALLY don't wanna wet sand the whole truck. Although I know that's probably gonna be the solution..... Also, does the picture vomit sound like it would be helpful? I've got loads of pics from this thing.
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I also have a few greens leftover if you want your A/C controls to match ;)
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Guess I'm not the only one "going green", lol. You guys do the Transfer Case selector light and the lights down the side (Check Engine, 4x4, Hi-beam, etc) as well? If you need a single LED I've got a few left over (like 9 blue ones for the high beam).
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Thanks guys. I have the bracket already. Ordered the two gates pre-formed hoses. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
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For the '98 Cherokee, I'm about to order the inlet and outlet hoses. They also list: Valve to pipe Valve to heater Valve to thermostat. Don't need these, correct? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
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Does that replace all 4 hoses? I noticed that the water pump has 2 hoses coming off it going to that Tee. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
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Welp, I broke my T for the radiator hoses. Does anyone have a list of parts for the conversion to 96+ and maybe a good pic? Hornbrod, I know you did a great job with yours. I'm looking to buy everything off rockauto if possible. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
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No diagram but I got two sets from him. Pretty sweet cables and the dude is more than happy to help and accommodate your custom needs.
