Tex06

There's a couple great forums that have checklists for folks thinking about buying one. Print it out and take it with when you go look at them. This is probably true of nearly any car over 10 years old now that I think about it. ^if only this wasn't true..... Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Following. I just pulled my flywheel and replaced with an Advance Auto one. Wanted to get mine resurfaced and keep....

The A/C controls, check engine light, up shift, and 4x4 lights are all 37.

Pshhh.....newbs! If you're cool with 2 seats, want RWD, a decent trunk, fantastic handling, good to great gas mileage (20-36mpg depending on motor), and very very customizable (maybe more so than any other car), reliable, and easily available for under $5000, look no further! Can you guess what it is? Not Toyota. Not Honda. Definitely not European. Think domestic. Think cool. Think Pontiac. That's right, the Miata killer on the track, the Fiero! I've got an '88 GT and not only is it a blast to drive, it gets great mileage and super easy to get parts for. The 4-cyl models (I'd suggest '86-'88) get awesome mileage with the 4 or 5 speed manual transmission and the V6s get mid-20s and are a total blast to drive.

I think he scuffed the clear then hit it with spray. I was able to chip a little off with a pressure washer, gonna try the 3200 psi unit at work this week if time allows. I'll give graffiti remover a shot, I hadn't thought of that.

For everything I've got into this truck so far. Meh, it wouldn't make any sense at this point I'd end up with just a vomit of pictures and half explanations. Anyways, anyone here have ideas on how to remove a spraybomb paint job without going to bare metal? I've tried lacquer thinner, paint thinner, acetone, all to no avail. The previous owner (one of 'em anyways) rattle canned the entire truck green....just not the same green as stock. I wanna get a single stage urethane with hardener but have to remove all this lacquer or acrylic or whatever Rust-Oleum is (could be Wal-Mart brand, you never know!). I'm trying to chemically strip the spray paint off without damaging the original coating too much and really REALLY don't wanna wet sand the whole truck. Although I know that's probably gonna be the solution..... Also, does the picture vomit sound like it would be helpful? I've got loads of pics from this thing.

I also have a few greens leftover if you want your A/C controls to match ;)

Guess I'm not the only one "going green", lol. You guys do the Transfer Case selector light and the lights down the side (Check Engine, 4x4, Hi-beam, etc) as well? If you need a single LED I've got a few left over (like 9 blue ones for the high beam).

Thanks guys. I have the bracket already. Ordered the two gates pre-formed hoses. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

For the '98 Cherokee, I'm about to order the inlet and outlet hoses. They also list: Valve to pipe Valve to heater Valve to thermostat. Don't need these, correct? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Does that replace all 4 hoses? I noticed that the water pump has 2 hoses coming off it going to that Tee. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Welp, I broke my T for the radiator hoses. Does anyone have a list of parts for the conversion to 96+ and maybe a good pic? Hornbrod, I know you did a great job with yours. I'm looking to buy everything off rockauto if possible. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

No diagram but I got two sets from him. Pretty sweet cables and the dude is more than happy to help and accommodate your custom needs.

Don, you'll be happy to know that $20 was put to good use. Half of my Rockauto shopping spree! Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I saw quite a few of the adjusting and parking brake levers for my year, maybe someone can chime in if they're the same?

This link is for my '92, but Rock Auto is having a big clearance on Jeep brake parts. You should be able to sign up for emails that will have your specific year and get notification periodically. http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1181821&m=wc&l=en&html=true

Looks good! Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Ehh, it's not uncommon to have them slip at first while they "set". We used to take customers cars out to the parking lot and do a lot of takeoffs after a clutch job just to work out any little imperfections and limit chatter due to the new surfaces meeting. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

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Good school, but hardly the best. That distinction belongs to MIT with Stanford a close second. Might be the best in cheap tuition costs though. Look again at national/world rankings for engineering schools. I think you'll be surprised at Tech and CalTech's standings. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Hey, shelby who runs this state this year? Oh yeah....the Yellow Jackets! To Hell With Georgia! Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Georgia Institute of Technology, only the greatest engineering school in the world. Got a decent football team too ;)

I cheer for Tech because I went there. You cheer for 'Bama 'cause you went to Wal-Mart. :peek: :peek: :peek:

NVM....just realized I was driving around in 4-hi and not 2-HI. Jeep has a different shift pattern than my Chevy :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh:

Seems like the clutch is settling in, 1st gear is much better than before. Reverse is still a little funny, esp if the wheels are turned. Is it possible my front axle is locking up on me? I have a Dana 30 HP up front, I don't believe it's a vacuum disconnect (has a single rubber line running to it that has a vent on it).