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Tex06

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Everything posted by Tex06

  1. My 92 has the HO motor, upgraded intake (took a hit on mpg with that), injectors, 3.5"lift, 3.07 gears, and 31" AT tires; in other words, very similar. I would love to see those numbers....I always wonder what causes the difference between machines that seem so similar. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  2. Any excuse to show off the cleanest engine bay on the site, huh? [emoji38] I believe the ram air effect would be negligible, watch your AF ratio to tell for sure. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  3. Horn, if you always use that station at home maybe try a different one for a few tanks before your next trip (like Racetrac) and try to stick to that during the trip as well. That's gonna give you the closest thing to the same fuel for both types of driving, but I don't believe this is the cause of the difference just be interesting to look at. With the increased power of the stroker motor, should the shifting of the transmission have been adjusted? For example, perhaps your engine is revving much higher than necessary or shifting too soon. A slipping transmission or one that "hunts" for the right gear constantly can kill your gas mileage. A good example would be the 6cyl autos of the 60s and 70s. Conversely, once you got up to speed with the auto, it wouldn't be shifting anymore and your mileage would improve drastically. Just a hypothesis, consult an expert before acting on this. [emoji28] Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  4. Following a semi can make a huge difference but is dangerous and illegal in most (if not all) states. I averaged 29 mpg in my old 05 Canyon doing this for a tank between Ga and Texas instead of 20-21. My 92 MJ gets about 15-16 mpg around town and 17ish mpg on the hwy doing 65-70mph. I use my GPS to track my mileage since my odometer is off. Still don't know how such a big difference in hornbrod's mileage happens though.... unless he tailgated like this to "hypermile" on the trip to Florida. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  5. Yup. I just snugged mine up, maybe 7-10 ft-lbs. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  6. Damn, you sure on the 21mpg? I don't get that with my nearly stock 4.0 and AX-15. Have you tried tracking mileage in town while in Florida? I don't think it would account for a nearly 10 mpg difference, but I know Alabama gas gives me worse mileage than anywhere else. Mississippi is the best...I assume the blend is different. Also, is your auto transmission stock? If there was any issue with it, it could account for some loss of mpg. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  7. Called and talked to Adam at RockKrawler. These springs are spec'd like this, I think this should give me exactly what I'm looking for as long as the height is right. 23" free length 8.01" compressed (solid) 135 lbs 165 lbs 220 lbs Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  8. From what I know (mostly fast cars) progressive springs give you a smoother ride on the road without compromising performance characteristics. Wouldn't this apply here too? Good handling on the road but still flexible off? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  9. Sorry if this has been covered.... tapatalk's search function is terrible Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  10. Has anyone here used a progressive rate spring for their lift? I'm looking to go SOA in the rear and something like this up front: http://www.rockkrawler.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RK02003 Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  11. honestly..... didn't check it and I knew I should have while I was there. Was interrupted several times and plain forgot. Would it produce the same noise as a bad wheel bearing? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  12. Welp.... I'm in a pickle. What sounds like a bad wheel bearing, acts like a bad wheel bearing, but ain't a wheel bearing? Replaced DS hub assembly (timken, only $62 off Amazon). Noise is still there, still goes away when turning left. Swapped tires, no change. Also found the "rattle" in my front left wheel... One of my brake caliper bolts fell out! Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  13. had a job when I bought the truck (and half the stuff on it). Currently volunteering with AmeriCorps and living on $1000/mo until January when my term ends and I can go back to engineering. Even if I do get a catastrophic failure..... it's a jeep. It can be rebuilt. [emoji2] Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  14. Yah, I hadn't either but Dzimm mentioned them in the second post. They're not cheap. If I get 6 months I'll be a happy camper. Should have a real job by then to cover the cost of Spicer or Moog replacements. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  15. Can't rebuild the 92 bearing/hub it's a sealed unit like what you have shown. They are offered as low as $45 per side. I was referring to the axle/ujoint/hub assembly that was listed for $190 per side. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  16. Also, on my budget thers a big difference between $45 for a wheel bearing and $190 for the assembly. Esp when that's doubled for each side. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  17. No movement seen when I jacked it up. That's mainly why I think its a bearing. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  18. Left front wheel bearing is going out and I wanted to make sure I've got everything before I tear into it as the MJ is my DD for the moment. Dana 30 hp axle. 36mm socket for removing hub nut (Have heard conflicting info as to 33mm vs 36mm) New hub assembly (is there a 5x5 pattern hub I can swap in to get rid of my current 4.5"x5 to 5"x5 adapters/spacers?) Should I plan on doing the u-joint in the axle at the same time? I'm fairly sure the noise is a wheel bearing but could it be this joint? I'll be replacing both wheel bearings, not just one side if I do this. *note: getting a grinding or humming noise at 40-65mph. Stops below 30mph or if I take a left turn at speed. My experience says wheel bearing with 219k on the truck. Opinions welcome* Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  19. Found an '87 Sportruck here in Baton Rouge. It's got good, bad, but it ain't ugly! Good: Body, lights, steps and paint are in p.d.g. (pretty darn good) shape. Stickers look original and are faded appropriately. Taillights, tailgate, bumpers are all there and in good shape. No dents that I saw. Engine is a new crate 4.0L to replace one that overheated, not even broken in. 130k on the body. Column shift auto. The Bad: The truck flooded last August. Hasn't moved since then, the shop that did the motor had just finished and parked it outside to be picked up from what I was told. Owner said he would part with it for $500. I was going to but it and part it out until I saw it was a Sportruck....I know these are kinda rare. Hopefully someone can get this beauty back in the road! Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  20. It's likely wet from condensation. Best bet on finding a leak is to have a shop do it with their UV light or a sniffer. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  21. Tex06

    mj-curious?

    Mary Jane?
  22. Used a 1/4" carbide burr and a drill. Tightened the pi$$ outta it, and it's much better now. Still a vacuum leak (idle hunts 900-1100 rpm) but something I can work with. I'm not sure who made my header, it's a solid stainless model I picked up a couple years back from Summit at their scratch and dent sale for $30. Had been installed once so they couldn't sell it as new, lol. I did notice though the header was slightly thicker than the intake....once I get my propane out and troubleshoot this, if it is where the intake meets gasket I'll try shimming and see if that helps. Thanks!
  23. I'll grab my die grinder and a few carbide bits from work. Should make short work of that. Thanks for the tip!
  24. Yeah I'm not comfortable running it long enough to do that. That would be my normal routine is bust out the propane and look for vacuum leaks but it's revving waaaayyy too high for my liking. Pulling it all apart today and gonna reseat the intake (without header wrap this time......sigh).
  25. Header bolted to engine (otherwise intake would fall off). Nothing bolted to header. Exhaust dumped roughly at the firewall under the gas pedal. 4 months. Yes it's loud. Yes you have to drive with the windows open or you'll probably suffocate. No, it won't hurt the engine for a short while. Or a longer than short while.
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