feerocknok

I keep meaning to pick up some of that stuff. Put parts on? I thought the point of the game was to have the least amount of parts on. I'm ready to pull my hood.

I run these: http://www.partsamerica.com/productdeta ... yCode=3153 with these bulbs: http://www.autobarn.net/pih4xtwhplbu.html They are freaking bright, and the bulb looks blue while out of the truck, but is a perfectly white light, and the lenses don't look blue: I paid 70 for the PIAA bulbs, but I like the $40 Sylvania Silver Star bulbs that are in my Tacoma (with the same lenses) just as much. The PIAAs are priced for the name.

Stick is cheap, but, for most people, tricky to get down. TIG is ridiculously expensive but can produce amazing welds. MIG is simple and not very expensive compared to TIG. Your floor boards can be your learning experience with MIG and you'll have the basics down by the time you finish. Whatever you do, spend more than you plan on spending. A cheap welder is money wasted. I work for Checker/Schuck's/Kragen and people buy our 110v MIG welders. I want to tell them to not waste their money on our welders, but people only worry about price. It doesn't seem to matter to them that the welder overheats after 3" of weld, and it can't weld anything more than sheetmetal.

I bought em cause I was too lazy to track down ACME nuts. When will you be installing the arms, Cole?

Yeah, looking at the fender hacks, looks like he was running some meats. I've always wondered what a rig felt like with 2 sets of coils welded together, but I've never had the nerve to try it.

Are you planning on leaving the front axle in its current location?

I just pull em off. Start with a flat head, finish with my hands. I've got an extra set if anyone needs em.

Oh, and they are like probably about 1" to 1-1/16" wide for the width of the "bolt" I'll get better measurements tomorrow or monday with a micrometer. and some pictures.Thanks, Joel It's 1.5 ACME thread. Here are the jam nuts: http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.m ... _Code=ARMS

Acme threads? Acme threads are also cut at a 29* angle so they are great on pulling loads.

I'd set the rear tires to barely clear the rear of the cab, and the front tires forward enough for a 90* or better approach, whatever that comes out to. After experimenting, I'm into short wheelbases myself. I like to take advantage of the tight turning radius, and keeping a low center of gravity helps eliminate the worry of rolling. My Toy went 110, to 118, to 106, and I'm shortening it to 99 because I want to.

My post disappeared :cry: I can kill my Yoter in low range cause it has Maybe 60 hp. Gearing only does so much.

That shaft is Nasty! Nice job! Did we all decide that Wrangler slip yokes have the same travel in them? They can just operate at more extreme angles because of the ear design?

I've tried it once, and it worked well. Teach em on the dirt in 4-lo till they understand where to let the clutch out at. It's hard(er) to kill it with that low of gearing.

'97+ bumpers are, I think, just ugly on '84-'96s because the flares are continued through the bumper's end caps: and you'd have to cut that section of the fender off. Whether the mounts are the same or not, I'm only 80% sure that they are.

Front bumpers swap, no prob whatsoever. Rear bumpers are a no-no.

Back in the day... my buddy had his '87 auto 4x4 flat towed about 40 miles with the driveshaft connected and it ended up either burning his tranny or his t-case, don't remember, because it wasn't circulating fluid, I believe. Memory's hazy on that one, but pull your DS.

I pulled it. It's bent right under where the truck sits with no load, so I had lost down travel, and the shock has a Bunch of dead spots in it, so it needed to go anyways, but didn't become zero rate. Thanks for the help!

:eek:

What ratio are you going with?

Yeah, this one's almost seized. What do you mean by zero rate? Just pressureless? I was worried about the effects of overcompressing when I decided to use my frame as a bumpstop... Dang, shocks are $ too.

that makes ZERO sense. MJ's are identical to XJ's from the front seats forwards with the exception of the rear wire harness and some trim panels. Sorry on this one bud, but the MJ unibody is not the same. That's one of the issues with long arm kits fitting on our trucks. I've heard that the MJ 'frame' is actually very strong compared to and XJ 'frame', but I haven't tested it yet ;)

789

I don't feel like putting this in tech. How do I know if a shock is bent without pulling it from the truck? Basically, I lost all of my suspension travel on my driverside rear corner and most of it from my passengerside, and I think I just bent the shock, but don't have time to pull it for a few days. It's super stiff on that corner for the 1.5" of travel that is there. I know my mount is at a bad angle for the shock but would over extending or compressing the shock bend it?

Nice thinking. :thumbsup: Did you apply heat or was the metal just that thin?

Not that I know of, but you can access someone's profile and find their last post. That's how I tell if a member's still active.