feerocknok

It's for two lowers, one upper, and a panhard with my '---' being the panhard. Didn't think about Excel being the problem since I have 2007.

I was using this calc: http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/files ... 0bBETA.zip and I guess I'm doing something wrong. These are the results I got: Anti-Squat #DIV/0! % Roll Axis Angle 4.97 degrees ( - roll understeer, + roll oversteer) Roll Center Height 25.26 in Instant Center X-Axis #DIV/0! in Instant Center Z-Axis #DIV/0! in I did a pretty simple 3-link | || ---- but maybe it doesn't work... but neither did | /| ---- or | \| ----

Anything going on with this at all still? Was thinking about it earlier today.

So...

Also not sure on the cams, but would suggest as suggested a new axle. Those unit bearings are expensive and not worth the labor if you can just get an axle.

I dig the bed rails!

Eh, I've got my A4 and RX to drive right now. It'd really be throwing money out the window to put a junkyard motor in just to pull it out again. I've decided to link the rear. Hellcreek quoted me a great price on their 3" springs, but I think I can link it for the same amount or less and have the performance that I'm after. I need to decide on my rod ends though. Probably be going with something middle of the line, possibly cartridge joints. The ends need to be semi-beefy, as I have the 2.5, an auto, and a light weight rig. And I'll be using the 3-link calculator, but I have something simple in my mind like this: The lowers would connect under the frame, and the upper on the side of the frame, with the coils sitting under the frame and a panhard on the rear of the axle.

Can only speak for XTerrains. Great grip when not on sidehills, but loud on road.

Yeah, it's an '86 though. Like the '08s are already coming out now and it's 'Oct '07. Nice to see the full gauge cluster! Definitely more important than it would initially seem, but I know I watch mine constantly.

To massive, like a Mega Cab to me.

The long doors looks sooo much nicer than a short door extended cab would. What about a Manche bench? Doesn't have the cutouts for the rear fender wells and should be the right width.

Excursion had a diesel option!

I can't remember how the MJ wiper arms connect, but if it's like the design in this picture, your screws may just be a little loose, or where the linkage connects to the motor could be loose:

"Those aren't real." The ones on that wall are actually ones from my dad's construction sites that were being pulled down, so they're legit to have. The leaves caused some axle wrap, but with the amount of flex that they offered, they kept traction pretty well, and with 283k on that motor, horsepower wasn't too much to keep under control. Sold that truck though :cry: I don't think I'd do it on a truck in need of a diet like my Comanche, or on a torque monster.

Wouldn't that still need a panhard? I'd imagine the dynamics of that suspension to be similar to that of a 3-link with a 'Y' link as the 3rd.

Something like this?

I agree with 99% of all of that. Trucks were different then and I think that Ford held up fine then, and I also agree with you that if Ford did that now, it would fall apart. I just don't like that to be thought of as the deciding factor of truck vs. not, but each person should think for themselves. Wasn't the Gladiator a seperated cab and bed?

It's been awhile since I've updated anything on here. Been waiting for Global Engines to send my motor back. Ordered the 97+ front end from Offroader461 off of here, and I've got some interior pieces coming from Pat. Also have new rear axle bearings and seals that need to go in, along with a passenger side wheel cylinder. Once I get all that in, the truck'll be getting a new rear suspension, since Global's paying me $20/hour to pull my motor out and put my motor back in. I'm going with either Rusty's 4" springs, Hellcreek's 3" springs, or 3 link. Deciding factors are if Hellcreek can hook me up with a good deal and the weather, cause I'm not going to link it in the winter. Lastly, I'll be painting the truck. Does anybody have any lines on used '97+ taillights? PM me if you do.

Are you clicking the "remember me" box at all?

I'm sorry but I cannot let this slide. Ford made for (I believe) 2 years an F-100 that had the cab and bed blended as one, and it was most definitely a truck.

Just makes extra noise if you hit.

Wow. Really are tired of leaves... Did you decide on which coils you're going with?

I've gotten that from 3 different shops when looking for one for an '83 Blazer. The shop I went with was $105 to get a Suburban shaft shortened with new joints, or $295 to get the Blazer shaft lengthened with new joints.

Getting a shaft lengthened is $$$. $300ish is about the norm around here. Shortened should not be more than $100.

Their factory lights hurt my eyes, however I wish I would have gotten them on my car, but got the h7s instead.