RustyRodder

Pete, if you ever decide to do paint, I had my truck done down there in Marietta. Did great work! As for rates, Manche- All depends on what you want. Scuff and shoot, with no real prep? Cheap. You can save some coin if you disassemble/reassemble yourself- take off trim, tape off bits, etc. But starting condition matters. I paid 2500 for an exterior shoot on mine, with jambs. Did not do the bed(inside) or underhood. But then, it had 0 rust and no major damage needing pulling/filling. Color matters- black needs perfection. White and silver can hide more.

I will echo the above, no one place has all the parts. but CC is a huge help! Plus often times I have found that a parts store won't have the part for an MJ, but the XJ varient will work. Krustyballer for the hitch With a lift, do you want 1-2"? a 2" budget boost is easy. 31's will fit fine, maye a little rubbing. but even a basic 235/75 will look good with that lift (in my opinion)

That does! Thanks! now I know for sure I can always get an XJ sender and rob the fuel sensor.

Played with this a bit- I can stick a new wire into the broken rivet hole, and it will swing down to empty. But it won't read accurately. I know that the problem is isolated to the hanger- the gauge worked perfectly before the pump swap, and stopped after. Worst case, can I cannibalize the potentiometer from a Cherokee hanger? Its in good shape other than this. And it seems my other options are A) send it out to be rebuilt (200 dollars), or swap in an 86 tank/XJ sending unit (also almost 200 bucks). Both of which Id rather not spend!

It allows for the 2.5's to use a AX15 instead of an AX5

Can confirm, I have a nice blue one on mine now!

Can you shoot me a pic?

Is it coming out the dipstick?

Lost the fuel gauge in my jeep last year due to a wire coming off (again). The PO Zip-tied it in place, which worked until the fuel pump died. Attempted to re-zip it in place during the roadside fix and failed. So how should I properly repair this, short of a full sending unit rebuild? Solder it back on? Seems like its just on plastic (Although dirty).

Interior parts, you say?

Awesome! Let me know!

Thanks for that- I havent clicked the link yet, but I am trying to see why one sport is 6k and one is 7650 (both have 4.10's, which would be max tow? but why is one less?). Looks like Max Tow will be needed on pretty much any model thats going to tow- 4500 is nowhere near enough for a car on a full trailer (Dolly maybe).

Some dealers are already offering up to 2500 under MSRP... Maybe somebody here can tell me- I keep seeing 'up to 7700lbs!" thrown around, which I assume is with the max tow package. Nowhere have I seen towing without that (or the lower level tow pack)

I took out my broken vacuum harness and rebuilt it with soft lines, started putting new loom on the wiring harness. Need to get some 3/4" though,

No, factory 91-95, so I can get rid of the rubber elbow/tiny (not really a)PCV line and go to the newer ones. Just trying to not use the 97+ Stamped steel one so I don't need another pricey felpro gasket. The style on the right:

Not the stamped steel, right? Let me know how much and where to send!

Looking for an aluminum (93-95) HO valve cover, like the one pictured on the right here:

True- but I was trying to compare new vs new, and the Raptors mpg is pretty bad, even compared to the standard 5.0 F-150. The article went up this morning, I saw. And production Gladiators are rolling out now- and still no price? I am surprised a window sticker hasnt leaked yet.

Could be a non-rusty one; but otherwise, I agree with Darren. I passed on 3 MJ's in Georgia because of rust. Ended up with a solid one for 900.

Looks great! What is that cover behind the battery? Makes the engine bay way cleaner!

Location? Basics- RUST. Bring a magnet. Check the rockers, cab corners, above the rear wheelwells, bottom of the bed. If you can, pull back the carpet a bit and check there. If not, bang the floor from the bottom with a hammer (Worked with my Crown vic search!). Thats a renix. how does it look under the hood? vacuum lines seem neat, or strewn about? cracks? Idling issues, running rich? Wiring taken care of? That era can be a bit tricky, but thanks to Cruiser and NickinTime's REM they are a lot easier. How does it shift, and does it go into 4wd, etc all basics. Checking the frame, etc. Some parts are hard to get- rear bumpers, taillights, tailgate/asociated hardware are near unobtanium. Make sure they are good, or plan accordingly! As for electrical issues, I know that they have grounding issues that can cause problems. Could be as easi as that- or could be shorts in the harness.

Just remembered too- TJ's also use that seat pattern. So with the right bracket, we could use late-XJ, WJ, ZJ, and TJ seats. Not sure about WK or Liberty

the seat itself, yes. but my understanding is that 97+ xj, zj, and wj all share the seat mount to rail design. The only hiccup is wiring in power, which isnt all that bad really.

I would definately be in for a set of those- the Comanche seats don't hold a candle to a set of WJ's

If I am looking at 50k+ to get a sport S with android auto, base tow package and a hardtop, I'll go for a Colorado or Ranger which has all that and more (Just optioned one similar to 41k). For that price difference, it would count out the Jeep.