carnuck

I made extenders for my front shocks (3" piece of galvanized water pipe with threads I made on the inside and an 2 1/2" exhaust stud on top with the same threads as the original shock)

If you want to go up higher, I would do a long arm conversion rather than jack around with the other stuff.

Make sure you count how many bolts hold your pan on before going to the autoparts store. There is 2 different ones available.

I hook power directly back to the pump to test them. Kept that part of a harness just for that issue.

I spray my TPS with contact cleaner/anti-corrosive once a year. Usually right after I power wash the engine to get it to run right again!

When I get time to pull the current filter off my Ford (replaced a collapsed Fram but still have poor to no oil pressure even though the new Napa gold filter is bulging from the excess oil pressure) I'm going to try to reverse blow the clog out of the oil gallery by applying 100 lbs of air pressure through the oil pressure gauge sensor. I plan to video tape it to send to Fram and my lawyer as well as have an independent shop take some of the material on the spot to be inspected. If it matches the material used in Fram filters and I don't get my oil pressure back, Fram will be getting a BIG bill!

caliper problem along with not enough fluid volume from the master cyl. IIRC there is an upgrade using a similar vintage E350 master cyl.

Raunchy gas? Someone mess with the dist? REALLY bad vacuum leak? Spark cracks in the dist cap? Mixed up plug wires? 1-5-3-6-2-4 is the firing order Worst case scenario is blown head gasket.

From the other tooth wear and the damage visible I'd say the pinion bearing went on that one.

Do a net search for "Bam bar"

Try a little fresh gas down the throttle body (about a spoonful)

Did you seal off the extra line going to the front? I did that with mine when I went to SOA and only 1 line to the rear. (I put a plug into the master cyl up front to block it off)

I have SOA with stock MJ springs and super duty shocks off an FSJ to absorb the bounce. Works well for me, but not a lot of flex off road (just the front does that and I'm okay with that for where I go)

Waggy and J20 are, but J10 is not.

That's what I am doing, but it requires that you change a lot of other stuff as well. razrwild.... That is a good looking truck for the price. As the others have said...I would not be overly concerned about the D35 for right now. If you have access to the 8.8 for a good price ($200 or less) then get it, but don't go crazy trying to find one and over pay. You don't HAVE to change the other stuff, but it cleans things up nicely if you do! (I did mine already)

Aren't the springs different lengths short to longbox?

YJ is also low pinion AFAIK.

Early ones don't have an inner seal. You have to buy a special seal from someplace like Randy's Ring and Pinion http://ringpinion.com

Do a '91 rad and put a regular cap on it! (assuming it's 4.0L)

NADA guides says $2,275 for my '87 Shortbox Sport truck.

I think it's "she" is a little darker and smarter than those two.

My buddy's (now mine) '82 AMC Spirit had almost all the bolts missing after driving it a couple months after a motor change. Had to rob a junkyard for the bolts he needed plus the ones I need to put an AW4 in place of the Peugeot (will have an AX-15 in there for awhile, just so I can test it in combo with the NP208J I will be selling as a pair. Probably next fall at rate things are going)

The whole plan is to screw up the country so that a dictator can take over in time for one world order. Any guesses who the Anti-Christ is?

Just double checked and you're right. http://www.jeepjunkie.com/ took over our mag, planning to do what jpfreek is doing. Too late! If they get back into true FSJ stuff, I may resubscribe.

I'd have to raise the roof to sit in anything lowered into the cab more than 2"!