rokinn

I wasn't serious about the piano, not in the near term anyway. But thanks! I signed up for the CO Comanche club on Facebook just so I could see if there was any action with your upcoming visit. I haven't been back to get an update but will and let you know what I find out. I've only met one other Comanche person here (Yellaheep) and CC member Hypoid. Back atcha later.

I bought a self lighting license plate frame from AZ I think and just screwed it to the bumper and wired it to the original license plate lights. Works well so far.

I've got a piano that needs moving.

Depending on the logistics of the PW and attendees, you might be able to drop in Ft Collins and a CC member returning to Denver or points south, could drop you off at DIA for your flight. Maybe, maybe not. Just a thought.

So, I'm not exactly sure what is being considered here. Are we looking at a rendezvous campsite and day trips from there. There are campsites south of Estes along Hwy 7 & 119 aka the Peak to Peak Hwy. The official campgrounds will be busy. We can also do a several day tour setting up camps along the way but availability would likely be hit and miss for any sizable group. RMNP is worth seeing but it is also a complete zoo, most especially on weekends. FYI Hwy 34 from Loveland to Estes will re-open after Memorial Day but will still have construction delays the rest of the year. It's possible to drive through RMNP from Estes to Grand Lake. I know of some camping areas that are more (non-official) that are east of Tabernash on the western side of the Indian Peaks area although it's been awhile since I've been there. Just a couple of ideas thrown out there. I'm sure there are plenty of others. Should be fun.

D35 is 59 & 3/4"

I have one...D35. D44 waiting in the wings. I'll measure mine but it will have to wait until after the deluge.

I don't imagine the transmission discerns much difference between towing and hauling. Back in my farm boy days we had nothing but 5 speed manual transmissions for hauling 5000 lbs on a 1 ton dually or 10,000 to 12,000 lbs on a deuce & a half, which was usual the fare for hauling grain over pretty steep terrain (IIRC). The more important thing I was taught to look out for was the isolated sharp rock.

Thanks, much appreciated. Nice to know that the rear arm rests work also but the fronts are much preferred.

I have those exact same seats, carpeted back, only drivers side folds forward, out of an 80's XJ. I think it was a 2 door but I honestly don't remember anymore. They also have the rocker type sliders. Haven't installed them yet. I've got another set (different fabric) that does have the fold forward on passenger side. Going to mix and match till I get what I want. Too many other things to do first. You didn't happen to pick up a set of black arm rests you want to sell me did you?

I recently converted from a closed to an open cooling system. I had a 3 core all aluminum radiator that made it about 5K before it started leaking. Not sure of brand anymore but I'm reasonably sure racing was in the name/source. I went with a 91+ 2 core (Champion EC1193) from Jegs ($175 w/free shipping). Champion discontinued making the 3 core because they had a lot of problems with durability and I assume the subsequent warrantying of them. It installed perfectly except for having to buy a different cap. The little ears on the cap won't clear the top bracket that holds the radiator in place. I re-purposed the closed system expansion bottle for the overflow on the open system. I drilled a hole in the cap for venting. Plugged the top/side hole with a little silicone and a cap from Lowes (p/n 139461). The 5/16 hose runs to the bottom hole and connects via a 3/4 sch40 coupling (24157). It kind of half assed screws onto to bottom protrusion and is sealed with silicone to hold it in place as well. A 3/4 to 1/2 bushing (51275) screws into that and 1/4" barb x 1/2" MIP (139461) screws into the bottom of that. The over flow hose fits onto the barb and is held secure with a small hose clamp. Easy peasy! Hardest part was figuring out how to run the overflow hose.

Perhaps this will work and you might be able to arrange shipping?? https://cosprings.craigslist.org/pts/d/jeep-xj-cherokee-brake-and/6558420376.html

If it sat for 2 years (especially in the hot socal sun) the fuel in the tank is/was very likely bad or at least marginal. I would change the fuel filter asap and run a can of BG 44k through it and see if this helps.

Are we not??

Behind the drivers side tail light. See Cruiser's tip # 1

Sounds like not enough spark. The white smoke and smell indicate you are flooding out. You might start with refreshing the coil contacts per Cruiser's tips. I suppose there is a way to test the coil but I don't know what it is. I expect someone else will chime in.

So, it just acts as a plug in a late model housing in your case, unless someone converted your engine to an HO. I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that you have a defective water pump just yet. Closed system cooling systems are difficult to bleed and will lead to overheating if not done properly. Since you have a thermo housing set up to bleed from I recommend pulling the thermostat and replacing it with a dealer replacement which will have a little hole in it. Orient the hole to the top side. You can also drill 1/8th inch hole in an aftermarket one but I really recommend the dealer one in spite of the additional cost. With a cool engine on relatively level ground you can remove the housing plug along with the reservoir cap and the system will bleed the air. Coolant will start to come out of the hole and your system will be bled. Replace the plug. Fill the reservoir to the fill line. A Volvo cap will seal better. You can find the part # on CC somewhere with a search. Make sure none of the O-rings are leaking as well. This might be all you need to solve your cooling issues. Good luck.

Yes, I was a little myopic into the Renix system with my last comment. I put a late model housing in mine so I could bleed it easily. That looks like the temp sensor that's in it. If you have a 91 or 92 or HO then you need that plugged in.

I think it's the electric fan relay.

It is a later model housing. Originally for a temp sender. You can open it up to bleed the air out of the system. You can stick a petcock in there too for added convenience.

Can you get a ratcheting box end wrench on the tap and just re-tap the hole threads? Or extractor, may work, but I've never had much luck extracting rusted broken parts. You could put a die on the new part to know what size the threads are! Just a thought, worth a shot, maybe?

Depends on what's broken on the passenger side. I would imagine it's the cable that's broken between the lever and the latch?? One can be fabricated. I think you need an additional slider to add to each of the bench brackets as well. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. You will need to add an arm to release the forward & back adjustment like on the drivers side. Seat covers can be swapped out. Just pick what you like from an XJ in the JY. Just the seat covers are usually cheaper than the whole seat. I'd offer $40 myself.

Sent to me yesterday via "Telegram" of a walk through Tempelhofer Feld, Berlin. Currently unused airport of the 1948 Berlin Airlift.

"The Cabin" west of Lyons CO

Out my back window about 3 years ago. No longer live there. Mt Vernon west of Denver.