Myron

All the ones I've tried have been for the gauge. If no sender in plugged in, or my old sender is plugged in, the gauge reads 0. If I install a new gauge, the needle moves backwards past 0 to the middle of the gauge. It moves when I rev the engine like it's reading something, but it's still upside down lol. This truck has the full cluster minus tach, I have never seen one like this before.

I have recently acquired another Comanche to be my daily driver. It needed a little work when I got it but I'm used to that. Being my fourth Comanche I should have been a little more prepared for my drawn out visits to the parts stores. My oil pressure gauge does not work. I have tried every part number O'rielly's had in the computer and on the books that matched up. I also looked online and cross matched part numbers to get the thing working. Every one I put in makes my gauge turn around backwards when I plug it in. Also, my transmission mount is shot. None of the part numbers match up at the store. I found one that looks similar online, but it's $75 and I'm not sure if I should order it or not. I Love my Comanches but I'm starting to remember why I quit driving them everyday.

I completely replaced the headlight harness. The sockets had been engineered together so many times there wasn't much wire left connecting them, it looked like a row of crimps and electrical tape. Also, the sockets themselves were grounded out which probably explains why my flashers came on with my lights. The connector was filthy so I cleaned it thoroughly while I could get to it easily. I replaced the sockets and now only the right side flasher stays on with the lights. The thing that I am finding strange is that if I remove the bulb, the light inside the cab no longer comes on with the lights? The running light doesn't work on that socket either, only the flasher. I'm about tired of lighting issues at this point.

I swapped the flashers and now my signals work. They still come on with my running lights. They will flash just extremely slowly. (Too slow for other drivers to understand that I'm turning) I'm thinking it's grounded out somewhere?

I'm having a similar problem. Neither my signals or flashers worked when I got my truck. I checked the fuses and the one for the hazards looked burnt. I wiggled in the slot and my hazards came on. Now, when I turn my running lights on my signals come on as well, don't flash just come on. When I turn one of them on, it goes off? I'm thinking the clutch master leaked out and messed something up?

I hate to bring up the dead, but if I'm reading this right Hayduke replied last month? The "bracket that goes on top" is the top piece of your header panel that your hood latches to. I will be converting my new truck to a newer style radiator soon. I am considering making another writeup (with pictures this time) when I do. Hopefully it will be a little more informative.

I rarely post on forums, but I keep coming back to this one. (Probably because I have a thing for Comanches lol) I can't access my old account so I guess this one will have to do. A little update, I now have 3 Comanches. The 88 4 cylinder I've had for years. A stripped 89 lwb with leaves up front. And another 88 to drive everyday that I got earlier this week. I tore the first 88 down for a 97+ swap. I can keep you guys updated if anyone's interested. Just wanted to give another hello. Glad to be back on here and driving a comanche again.

I guess I should have clarified 88 2.5 TBI. After looking again today I now only have fuel dripping from the injector, not spraying. I can only think of three possibilities. 1)I drained my battery down trying to figure out what's wrong with it. 2) My strainer is clogged with rust. 3) All or most of the plugs undone underneath my hood need to be plugged in. I can't find where they go or anything that says where they go and if I don't soon I'm thinking about posting pictures of them on here if you guys think it would help. There's quite a few.

I think Rescue Green would look nice. Olive drab would look better IMO if you're cool with flat paint.

Any ideas on why a motor that's getting fuel and spark wouldn't run?

My jeep would only rev slowly. If I went from idle to WOT, it fell on it's face. Check the vacuum line that runs from top of the tank if you have one. My 88 TBI 2.5 has it, and when I fixed it, would go from idle to WOT without starving.

So my truck was running out of fuel around a gallon below completely full. By completely full I mean gas running out of the fill neck, not the second click at the pump at the gas station. The problem started as the truck running out of fuel at around a half tank, and progressively got worse. Then the truck wouldn't run at all, no matter how much fuel was in the tank. I was not getting fuel, not even to the filter. I dropped my tank, drained it, found a fair amount of rust, the strainer, and a large magnet inside. I thought the sending unit might have a hole in it, so I filled a small bucket with fresh gas and the truck ran with the sending unit in the bucket, no matter if the pump was submerged just enough to pick up fuel or submerged all the way to where it seals at the tank??? After weeks of troubleshooting, I traced the vacuum line from the top of the tank and found that it was broken right behind the valve cover, on it's way to the canister. Replaced it and the truck ran better than it ever has since I've owned it, with the pump in the tank and only a gallon or so of fuel in it (And I no longer have to turn the pump on with a toggle switch, it comes on with the ignition). I put the tank back in the truck and it ran amazing for about a half mile, then died. Now it won't start unless I use starting fluid, and even then won't stay running. I have fuel both before and after the filter, and at the injector. Doesn't make sense to me. Strainer is back in place, and fuel filter was replaced with a WIX as the old one was clogged, also has new vented gas cap. :hmm: Any ideas?

How much pressure do you have?

That's how it is here. I thought it was like that everywhere? You guys seriously don't ROLL TIDE? At least tell me you RAMMER JAMMER!

I've cut cats off all kinds of things and it normally adds a mile or two a gallon and better times at the track. The only time it hurt anything was in a buddy of mine's CRX, cost him 2 tenths in the 1/4 but it was a completely stock D15. Only thing I've noticed as far as sound goes is it makes it a little louder, pitch stays the same.

I have a Losi MRC I wonder if that body would fit? It's been a while since I got it out, I broke the lockers when I got my flat irons and it's sat ever since. If anybody knows where to get one of those bodies please let me know.

I run 80-90 gear oil in my AX4, dex/merc in the 231. BA10/5 and AX15 should be the same. I'm sure someone will chime in if it's not.

It says my vote is invalid, but I'll take one at a fair price.

I have M/T's on my truck now(Old style tho). They've done great everywhere I put them, aired down they have a surprising amount of bite. I got them a couple months after they were discontinued for $250 mounted and balanced with free R&B for the life of them. :D Oddly enough I've had two people in the last month ask me where I got them, one put a note in the cab vent that said dude, where did you get the BFG's with a number lol, I'll see if I still have it if you want a pic.

:agree: Less likely to break an axle, and easier to replace when you do break it.

I looked all around it trying to find if it was something special. Didn't notice anything out of the ordinary so I thought it was put on by the PO. I've always known TSi to mean boosted... Imagine a 318 ZJ with 7-8 psi stock. That would be awesome.

This came in at work a couple days ago. I could only snap this one pic because my boss gets upset when I take pictures at work. I want to know more about it but have been too busy to search. Maybe someone just put the TSi stickers and purple trim on it? I know it's been on there a while whoever put it on.

Make sure the front end you put in is geared the same as what you are now. Should be 3.55 and your transmission donor should be the same being a 4.0.

I need a new water heater myself. I talked to Alabma Power and they told me they would give me new one for free if I would switch from gas. My entire house has to be re plumbed before I get it tho (PO beat all the lines when they got kicked out.)

With a wheelbase that long it should have an extremely comfortable ride.If you lower it think of the horrible breakover angle you would have, being that long and low it could get hung on regular streets where I'm from unless you have airbags to pick it up. I've seen regular Impala's and other big cars scrape on the paved hill near my house.