Myron

I take it that the 2.5L has no fuel pump ballast resistor?

Me and a Buddy of mine had a Rusty's lift on our XJ's and his did fine. It didn't sag, it rode and flexed good (4 1/2"). Mine had an AWFUL death wobble.(Prolly because it still had the stock pitman arm on 8 1/2" of lift and impossible to balance 33x15.50 TSL/SX's) But mine was not a long arm and didn't flex for poo. I guess we lucked up because nothing broke and we beat the @#$% out of them. I get a lot of stuff from them (they're right down the road lol) But I haven't had a problem with anything I've bought from them. But like I said maybe I'm lucky.

The overflow bottle runs the all the way down. I took it off and there is nothing behind it. Is the ballast resistor only on the 6cyl? Or maybe in a different place on the 2.5?

I think I have a problem. Mine looks like this. Image Not Found

Just read all 18 pages. Your Jeep is beautiful bud. Will it be seeing new paint anytime soon?

Root beer? :ack: :ack: lol another from I'm on is "family friendly" and doesn't allow the drinking of malted hops and barley lol.

Fixed for now. I'm getting frustrated with my computer. I'll take some pics later to add soon (If I can figure out how to post them that is) Hope I can help someone out.

I'm attempting a DIY writeup and every time I get a few lines in, I try to type and the page view if you will, the box you write in, jumps to the top and I can't see what I'm writing. It was annoying when I did it the 1st time, but I finished. Now I'm trying to fix it and I want to break something. Has this happpend to anything else? Anyone know a way to fix it?

Just read all 20 pages. Nice Jeep bro.

My computer was acting screwy towards the end of that post so... Next time you drive by your local scrap yard, give them your old radiator, unless it wasn't useless like mine. This is my first writeup so try not to flame me too much but I would like to know how I did. Thank you and enjoy.

Sorry I don't have any pics. But if I'm not detailed enough I can post finished pistures to help you out. 1. Take your old radiator hoses off (Keep the worm gear clamps). 2. Take off the bolts holding the radiator to the brackets on the side. There might be something on the bottom as well but my old radiator support was some kind of wall corner bracing (it was wrecked and rigged by the PO). 3. Now take the 2 screws holding the fan shroud to the radiator. 4. Pull your old radiator out and then the fan shroud. 5. Now the bracket behind the header has to come out. There are 4 bolts that hold that bracket behind the header on and 5? on the header itself. It comes out in 1 piece (at least mine did, my header is broke and after the 4 bolts on top it came out). 6. There are 3 bolts per side that hold the 2 brackets that held the old radiator. You have to take the air box and the battery tray out to get to them (3 nuts each). Mine had a horn on the driver's side bracket but I think it was aftermarket. If it was OEM I will give instructions on how to remove it. Take the bolts off and the brackets out. 7. Now place your new radiator in the foremost core support and get some paint & a small paintbrush. Paint the tops of the 6 screws coming out of the top of the radiator. 8. While it's still wet get a get a buddy to hold the radiator in place while you put the bracket that goes on top back in. Make sure you line it up with the mounting holes for it and set it down straight. Big suprise it hits those screws in the top of the radiator. 9. Now take the bracket off and you will see the marks from the screws. 10. Turn the bracket upside down and you will see the paint marks. 11. Drill holes in the bracket using the paint marks as centering points. I used a little bigger drill bit because my screws were crooked and I wanted to make sure they fit. 12. Now bolt your bracket down and now you can't see your nice new radiator anymore. I didn't put nuts on the screws poking out because I didn't have any and it works fine without them. 13. Now you need hoses, the ones for a 95 Cherokee (upper and lower) work great. 14. Now put your battery tray, battery, and air box back in. Fill it up with new coolant. Put your new cap on and hook up your overflow. Now drink an un-fruity beer. you are done.

I did it today and was wondering if anyone wanted a writeup on how it's done. I'm new to forums and don't know if this is too small of something to do a writeup on or not.

So if I take my flares off and do some cutting I'll be fine? I'm guessing no one makes a 2" lift shackle.

I have a 3 1/2" Superlift and just replaced my 31/10.50/15 Mud Kings on 3 spoke Panther wheels for 32/11.50/15 BFG Mud terrain TA KMs on 15x8 Daytonas. Don't know the backspacing. But I can get it for you if needed.I am not scrubbing in the back, I am scrubbing in the front and I know before I get on the trail again I need more lift. My plan was to do a 2"shackle in the back and 2" spacer in the front to compensate for my bigger tires. How does your XJ flex with no lift and 31's? I thought 4 1/2"s of lift was necessary to run 31's without cutting the fenders on an XJ?

Does anyone make a 2" lift shackle for MJ's? I got 32's today and need to go a little bigger but I'm broke lol.

:agree: Did the same to mine. But the holes in my floor are from where I took the drain plugs out lol.

Where is the fuel pump ballast resistor? I think that is reason why my fuel pump is on a switch. The wire runs from the battery to an orange wire inside the cab, behind the seat. Thanks for your help.

That would be it. What's so special about it? D60's? Diesel? Thanks for the help.

What is it? I'm probably gonna feel like an idiot when someone answers this. But I can't figure it out.

I pulled my vinyl flooring up, checking for rust and whatnot, found a lot of whatnot, not a lot of rust :D . but now only one brake light works. sprayed it down with contact cleaner and it's still the same. :hmm:

Well my GF did it because I suck at drums. Didn't see that coming. Got the brackets I didn't have from Pull A Part, BTW their prices went up. The adjuster for the drivers side will be in tomorrow so we can finish it up. She said she's gonna do it while I'm at work lol. Maybe she'll be back on the trail tomorrow.

Always do both sides at the same time. But I suck at drums and the whole not having parts (other than shoes) for the driver's side had me worried a little. I'm headed to Pull A Part now to get a brake bar because it's a dealer only item. Thanks for the help.

I haven't ran sway bars on any of my Jeeps, and I haven't had any problems. XJ on 8 1/2in. didn't like the stock pitman arm at all tho lol. I try to do everything I can on the cheap, don't see spending money where it isn't needed and personally can't afford to.

My current Comanche has had braking problems since day 1 (a week or 2 ago). Replaced the master cylinder and noticed brake fluid pouring out of the pass side drum. I took the drum off to find a wheel cylinder, a spring, and some cobwebs. Any tips on putting them back together? Parts store only has parts parts for that side (which is good) but all I have to go by for reassambly is the driver's side, are there any differences? Ideas why it was like that in the first place?

I have the same problem but no gauge lights at all. My brake lights didn't work when I got it. I sprayed the fuse box down (fuses out) with contact cleaner and now I have brake lights and hazards on the back. But nothing else. I'll be pulling my dash out tomorrow to try to figure it out.