Motorcharge

Snap On at work, mostly Bosch at home though I have a lot of older DeWalt stuff. DeWalt has gone to $#!& since Black and Decker bought them and I used to love Millwaukee tools but the last set I bought for work when I was working construction fell apart on me pretty quickly and Millwaukee didn't care at all. I know Snap On is pricey for the average person who doesn't get the option of financing, but I'd absolutely pick one of these up if you can. https://store.snapon.com/CTS561CL-Series-Cordless-Screwdrivers-7-2V--Screwdriver-Cordless-7-2V-P646593.aspx Very reasonably priced for Snap On. I've had one for years and it's never let me down and been one of the best tools I've ever bought. Can handle anything 1/4" I throw at it, plenty of torque, durable, batteries last forever.

Steering stabilizers only mask symptoms of a bigger problem.

2-2.5" XJ shackles should net you 1" on an MJ. Stock MJ shackles are an inch longer than stock XJ shackles.

Look for fresh steel with a flashlight. It will give you a good place to start because you'll know what's rubbing if that's a cause. If you don't see anything obvious from that go through literally everything in the steering and front suspension and torque and replace anything loose or worn. It's always something simple with DW, but it's just trial and error and tedious to fix. I'm dealing with it myself atm and hoping rebalancing my tires fixes it. Like others have said mine only happened at 45-50ish when I hit a manhole cover, pothole, ect in the road. They've got less than 3k on them, but I haven't balanced them since I bought them 3 years ago and they were pretty off when I checked them yesterday. There was one that felt weird even after I balanced it so that went on the rear. Ran out of shop time before I could bleed my brakes so I've got to wait til Monday to see if that solved it. If you narrow it down to tires find a shop that has a Hunter Road Force balancer and have them use that. As for brakes, what's your issue with them? I wouldn't mess with the front brakes other than replacing worn parts but I'd do a disk swap in the rear or an axle swap with disk brakes such as an 8.8. They're a huge improvement in braking however you add them.

My 91 Eliminator

Backflush and clean the cooling system out an replace the coolant with fresh coolant and make sure your system is working properly. Check temps with an IR thermometer to confirm that the dash is reading accurately. It's not uncommon for them to be off or wrong altogether. The hood vents help, but I also have all my efans rewired to come on with a switch. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/electric-auxillary-fan-override-switch-132465/ Warmer than normal is ok, but it shouldn't be overheating.

Last time I had to remove one I pushed a trim removal tool (plastic) through one side then wrapped fishing line around two bolts and pulled it through starting where I'd loosened it with the trim tool. Cut right through with no risk of damaging either surface. You can pry it off, just use something that's soft and not going to gouge either surface.

Yes, but the airbox is still in the engine bay. It's more a comparison to the K&N filters people like to slap on and leave in the stock spot and call it a cold air intake when in reality all you're doing is sucking in more hot air from the engine bay. The difference over stock or in bay filters is pretty substantial. Another benefit is it moves your intake significantly higher giving you the ability to cross deeper water.

Spectra and Thor make them. Typically they go in the passenger side since the wiper motor is on the driver's side. It's the only real cold air intake there is aside from a cowl intake, but that's a lot more work. They're a noticeable difference, but they're very loud inside the cab.

Never understood the thought process. How many people see your vehicle and license plate on a daily basis when you're driving it? :nuts:

Who said Cummins was being discontinued in the bigger trucks? The vM is going into 1/2 ton trucks and Grand Cherokees. See what Gale Banks thinks of them. I didn't say it was being discontinued. I said they're not getting the NEW Cummins and they're losing exclusive use of it since Nissan is getting the new one in the Titans. I can slap a nice header on a piece of $#!&, it's still going to be a piece of $#!&.

Looks like a 20 to me, and would fit with the CJ, but it's hard to tell from that angle.

nope. in some of the vid angles, you can see how terrifyingly close that loose wheel came to hitting people (like 5-6 feet) And not one of them seemed to notice in the picture lol

Tirebuyer.com always has free shipping and more often than not has Visa card rebates on top of it. I usually just get our parts department to call American Tire though. Usually cheaper and I can generally get tires the same day. I payed $200 less for my MT/Rs than I could find online I had them delivered within an hour.

Agreed on the HO. Never had a problem with my Renix era Jeeps. 88 is the perfect year to me. Highly disagree on the VM engines. You couldn't pay me enough to put one in something. Not getting the new Cummins (the sole thing Ram has had going for it for 20 years) to use a VM diesel was the stupidest thing Fiat could have possibly done with the brand. Even if the new VM diesel is a good motor it's sure as $#!& not a Cummins and the name doesn't carry the weight or selling power that Cummins does.

My XJ had a 2x4 cut to length in the hatch area when I bought it. I didn't know why til I opened the hatch to pick it up, bent over and grabbed it then had the hatch smash me in the head a couple seconds later. First thing I replaced. They're only like $20 a set at Napa. I'm driving my nieces ZJ while my MJ is at the front end shop (I grenaded my rear end in my Dodge on Monday) and neither the hatch nor the window struts work anymore. Spent almost $70 today replacing them for her. :/

x2 on the 242. It's a lot more reliable and the only downside to it in XJs is there's no real SYE options (iirc Tom Woods is the only one still making them for a 242) which isn't as big a deal on MJs. I miss having one on my old DD XJ just for the full time option in bad weather.

Look on Amazon and read reviews. There's a thousand companies all rebranding the same stuff at different prices.

Chrysler has ALWAYS sucked. They did ok with Jeep until they did away with all the AMC designs. They were already @#$%ing up Jeep and Dodge/Ram and Fiat simply made it worse. Chrysler has never been a positive influence on either brand. Fiat will continue to ruin Jeep and Ram. Especially since they passed on the new Cummins in favor of a pos VM Motori (fiat) 6 cyl for the new Rams and let Nissan pick it up ruining the only thing Ram trucks have had going for them in decades.

anyone flash their high beams at ya when ya drive with em on? Redwolf Most of my driving is on country roads so I shut them off like I would high beams when another vehicle is approaching. I don't use them on the main roads and I never used my high beams on them either. They light up the road like I flipped on a light switch in a dark room so I imagine it would suck for an oncoming car if I had them on.

Maybe I missed it but what's your steering setup and how does it drive without a stabilizer?

$35 on Amazon and I don't even use my high beams anymore they're so bright. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G620ZVU/ref=wl_mb_recs_2_title

Any AW4 will work. You're better off with the 97+ up ones for two reasons. One, they're newer, and two the transfer cases are sealed units so if you need to you can run in 4wd with just the front drive shaft without the TC losing fluid. Very handy if you blow u joints and don't have replacements with you.

BARELY got this thing done enough in time to get it out the shop and not catch hell on Monday for it tying up a bay. That said, it currently has no brakes, had to drive it like a boat lol Just need new front lines. I've got em, just didn't have time to do them. Still need to align it and adjust everything. Everything so adjustable it's a pain in the @$$ and right now the steering stabilizer is loose because it was binding the steering and catching the tie rod for some reason. I guess I'll be doing some minor trimming as well. Popped the passenger side flare loose turning. I don't want to add more lift so I guess it's my only real option. Killed me not being able to drive it home, but at least it looks badass for now. :laugh: Not sure when I'll be able to get to fixing everything else, but hopefully sometime this week. Oh and another thing with the HC leaf springs. The damn centering pin hole wasn't even close to being big enough for the alignment pin. I had to take a die grinder to both springs to get them to rest on the plate correctly. I didn't just eyeball it either, I stuck a micrometer on it. Not the end of the world, but extremely annoying when I'm rushing to finish and I've got to take the leaf springs back out to grind out holes on leaf springs I spent almost $500 on. That said, I was afraid the back end was going to sit much higher than the front like stock but I think these will settle right about even with the front.

60 on the left, 70 on the right to give you an idea of just how big they are. They are complete overkill for 33s whether you're running a locker or not. You could be running 42s and a 70 would still be unnecessary. Hell even if you narrow one I doubt you can find a stock length shaft that will fit in a 70 narrowed for an MJ.