AMCJeepMJ

Running a banked oval is fun stuff. I remember back about 10 years ago, there was a weekend at the Texas Motor Speedway where you could run your own rig for 3 laps for $10. I ran both a 93 Accord and a 2000 Odyssey van on the track that weekend. There was both a rabbit and a cleanup car so nobody could get too wild [get tossed for erratic or aggressive driving] or fast [75-80 max] in each group of about 12 cars. It was fun even though I was the only van in a pack of M3s, Impala SSs, Miatas, Firebirds, and other sporty cars. A guy even ran an Isuzu box truck to advertise his business in one of the groups. Bottom line is running on banked ovals are a blast... watching it [nascar] not so much.

Eight, not seven. The MJ never had a 7-slot grille. Yes, 8... I knew what I meant. :D

Welcome! :cheers: There's plenty of great info here for when you finally pick up an MJ; CC is a great resource.

The bushings too- notice the pic shows them side by side, both trimmed and untrimmed.

Ahh, I see. It took a little modification for it to work. Nice to have pics, too! I'm glad I asked since I didn't see it as a direct swap without a bit of playing with it.

So, I read on a thread recently [and now can't find it] that WJ [99-04 Grand Cherokee] lower control arms will work for a mild lift to keep the front axle where it is supposed to be instead of having it come back towards the cab. After a little research, I found the WJ LCAs appear significantly different than MJ/XJ LCAs: MJ/XJ: WJ: Which leads me to ask if anyone can confirm: 1: If this is indeed the correct part 2: What amount of lift the WJ LCA is good for to keep the axle centered [2"? 4"?] 3: If there are any fitment issues or anticipated complications during installation due to different designs 4: If the oval bushing will cause any performance or clearance issues of the control arm vs a round bushing I know these are a lot of Q's, but money's tight for Jeep modifications these days! The WJ LCAs would be for a DD rig with light offroading, intended 3" front lift, and 30" tires. I am still in the parts collecting phase in preparation of the front lift.

:agree: Both my 86 and 87 had a chrome 10-slot grille. I have since moved to a 7 slot on the 87, but then went back to the 10 slot after a quick application of satin black rattle can to it and the headlight bezels. There is also a 15 slot [i think] out there that will fit. Its a matter of personal preference which slot-count grille you like on your rig.

I have had 3 Accords and all they've required [as stated above] is timing belts when the mileage is due... If the move to an SUV is in order, we love driving our Ford Escape since it is very car-like and not truck-like on the road. My other half is only 5' 2" and she has no problems with ingress/egress and its not a huge vehicle either. Its peppy with the 24v v6 and does great in snow with automatic AWD and all-season tires... something to consider since you're in MN.

That back bumper looks pretty straight- better snag it while you're out there.

Was hoping that was the case. I've seen steelies locally go for 40-50 and factory alloys about twice that now that its tire change-over season. Any idea what a set of silverstars should go for or is the $100 range about par for course?

I find it hard to believe nobody has posted this link for vehicle beauty accessories: http://carlashes.com/

Discovered I have a bad output shaft bearing on the AX4 causing the driveshaft to wobble. Bah! Drove it to work anyway.

Hi all, I picked locally up a set of 5 silver-finish Silverstars from a 5.9 Limited GC this week for $90. Only one wheel has a little rash, and all wheels are straight, dent-free, and have good finish. Is this a reasonable price to pay for a set of five?

Looks like 77 or 78 Gremlin. Super ugly nose on them [reminds me of a Chevette], but nice clean example shown.

I picked these up for $60 +shipping and they worked just fine for lifting the rear: http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_27&products_id=388 Between the shackles above and add-a-leaf spring packs I pulled out of my 86 MJ, I have almost 4" of rear lift on my 87. When you get above 2" of lift, you will have to start thinking about new shocks.

I miss seeing those bumpers with dealer name and location stamped into them. Few and far between nowadays.

I had a helluva time getting that one off too this past August... just used a 2' cheater pipe on a ratchet and a lot of elbow grease after a liberal soaking of liquid wrench. Good luck

:agree: I hope Ron Washington doesn't play russian roulette with the pitchers [as he usually does] and get them knocked out early.

Deja vu? Something has changed in the Matrix! The first thing I thought of when I read deja vu: Its the Mind from Monty Python season 2 ep 3.

I use mine for a 35 mile round trip to/from work, 5 days a week. Yes, they can be DDs... even with 2WD, a 2.5, AX4, a D35, and no air conditioning.

You made me look up 'umbrage' since its been so long since I have seen or heard that word. No, no annoyance or offense taken by it at all. Carry on. :cheers:

I'll have you know I autocrossed my completely stock low-mileage 94 LeSabre last year. Surprisingly, I didn't have the slowest time after the day was done. Almost, but not quite. Remember too, that NOT driving a vehicle is another form of abuse [think of the garage queen Corvettes and Ferraris out there or even cars left in fields or back yards]. Seals dry up, things start to not work right or not work at all from sitting. My 15 year old Buick has less than 70k on it and it seeps coolant and tranny fluid, and the rear brakes stick in addition to having contracted the early-90s paint mange that afflicts so many cars of its vintage. I don't drive it much other than about 20 miles once a month to keep it active and alive. It hasn't had a fill-up since early summer. /always thought the 90s LeSabres and Park Avenues had great looking front ends, but atrocious rears //may have to start looking for a 97+ vintage Park Ave Ultra some day

When you go to Napa or wherever you end up at for parts, the new U-bolts will come with new nuts and most likely washers as well. Be aware the ones they have at the auto parts store may be longer than what you are taking off. Take one of the old U-bolts with you. I just replaced all 4 on my D35 in mid-August, and they were in the $15 ballpark for each one at my local Napa. Have your torque wrench handy when installing them- you'll want about 80-85 pounds each... I set mine at 82 IIRC.

I paid $400 for my rust-free [but dented] 87 2.5 4speed short bed 2WD MJ in 2007. Its my current daily driver and have $1100 in it, including purchase price. Best $400 I have ever spent.

/obligatory