comanche09

Just got mine for $89 shipped from them!

Could also be the oil filter adapter leaking down the block.

Great work! And very nice welds! (this is coming from someone who inspects welds for a living). I would weld some vertical square stock the same size as the horizontal stock butted to the outboard sides of the bumper brackets. Tie it all in with thick plate down the outside of the "frame" rails. That ought to give you plenty strength for towing. For cosmetics and a bit more stiffening, I would add vertical square stock between the license plate and bumper brackets. It'll be pretty low if you mount the 2" receiver below the license plate. It would give me an excuse to lift the truck or mount it were the license plate is and rig up a pivot for the license plate (like old cars had hidden gas fills behind the plate). That would be sweet. :clapping:

:headpop: Yet another reason why the Peugeot trans SUX On the 2wd BA/10 (don't know about the 4x4 version) the drain is at the back of the case below the tailcone. I had to grind down a piece of square stock to make a tool for the plugs. I could never get the fill plug free (kept bending deflecting the steel stock). I was able to fill the trans by unbolting the shifter in the cab...

If you could mount them there they would look silly IMO. The stock mirror in that location has a triangular base. Just grab some '97+ XJ mirror from the junkyard. They fold and are actually big enough to be useful.

May or may not - there's equal pro and con depending on what you read. I don't care. ZDDP doesn't hurt mine at all for sure. :D Image Not Found LMAO My Alabama cat involves a section of flex hose and a couple exhaust clamps. I'm currently running Rotella-T 5w-40 Syn for the ZDDP. I switched from M1 10w-40 High Mileage. FWIW the M1 stopped my small oil leak. I noticed no change in engine noise/performance between the two or the regular old dino/slick 50 the PO was running in it.

:agree: Krylon Fusion. Mine are painted with Satin Black I used plain old brush on aircraft stripper on my flares to remove the faded oem paint. It didn't work very well (not as well as it does on painted metal). So I just sanded everything with 320, wiped them down with the Xylol I had left over from the Herculiner installation, and painted them with Krylon Fusion using the DIY on here as a guide.

Is that a tow dolly underneath the truck?!?!

'97+ XJ Mirrors with 2" blind spot mirrors fix that up nicely. No need to turn your head away from the direction you are traveling :thumbsup:

Hehe, I once ran straight pipes with dual slash cut 3" truck tips on a '02 3800 Chevy Impala (for about 3 days). Sounded like a big block dump truck with no exhaust on startup, and at idle sounded like a cammed V8. The drone was literally painfull. :ack: :dunce:

:agree: And with all the money put into the upgrades I listed above, you could buy an old tow rig. But hey, for whatever reason (no room for an extra vehicle, insurance, registration, inspection etc.) that is not an option for some people. Another problem is that if you get into an accident, for legal reasons, if it is found you are towing more than the MFG listed tow rating, you could be in big trouble (ie lawsuit).

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CFO0/384193.oap?year=1990&make=Jeep&model=Comanche&vi=1181753&pt=1344P&ppt=C0015 Centerforce Performance Clutch IMO Clutch issues (and lower tow weight rating) arise due to the transmission having to turn the weight against OEM 3.07 gears :ack: With a manual, you can downshift more readily for engine braking vs. and auto trans. If I were building this truck I would probably go with 4.10 gears or better with LSD. :thumbsup:

Hmm... How to convert a 1987-1990 Renix MJ 4.0L 5spd into a Towing Machine :brows: : IMO: -Start with a Long bed 2WD MJ Cooling: -Add '95 era Ford Explorer power steering cooler. -Consider Converting to "Open Cooling" -Consider High Flow water pump Engine: -K&N or High flow drop in air filter -Hi flow muffler -Brown Dog Motor Mounts -Any power mods of your choice Transmission (AX-15): -Synthetic 10w-30 -HD/High performance Clutch kit Rear End and Suspension: -Swap in Dana 44, or 29 Spline 8.25, or Ford 8.8 with minimun 3.73 gears and synthetic 75w-140 gear oil -Metric Ton Springs -Heavy Duty Shocks Front and Rear -V8 ZJ Front Sway Bar Brakes: -'95-'96 XJ or WJ Dual Diaphram Booster Swap -WJ knuckle/dual piston caliper Swap -Inspect and/or replace all brake lines -Delete Rear brake proportioning valve Electrical: -Swap in Delco 100 amp Alternator or mod a 91+ 136 amp one in. -Upgrade all grounds and positive cables -7 Pin trailer harness with Prodigy Brake Controller Tires: -Load Range C Tires in near stock size Hitch: -Class III Uhaul Hitch or Custom HD bumper hitch -Load distributing hitch with sway control device IMO 5k would be a breeze with above mods. :dunce: :thumbsup:

That is why the back of his block is hotter. I would convert to "Open Cooling" and never look back.

I've always had good luck with Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers. Aluminized ones are pretty cheap. I would go stainless if I lived in the Rust Belt. Not too obnoxious, but loud enough to know its not stock. Hard to beat Magnaflow. But more $. Both of the above actually flow better than "Flowmaster".

x2 Mine runs cooler now and only gets to just below the halfway mark on the gauge max however, EVERYTHING in the system, except for the water pump was circa 1988. I replaced all the hoses, and eliminated the heater control valve. Plumbed the heater core direct (only two hoses now there), and capped the vacuum line.

I just pulled a set of tow hooks and brackets off the '98 XJ UpCountry I got my rear axle from (it also has a full skid package). The 97+ appear to have the bumper brackets welded to the tow hook brackets (nothing a cutting wheel can't fix) I was pleasantly surprised by all the bracketry that comes with these hooks! There are also 90 degree angle brackets on the inboard side of them in front of the lower radiator support that have nuts welded on to them. They replace the stupid catch plate nuts that break all the time for securing the bumper to the frame.

My front and rear bumpers and fender flares are painted with Krylon Fusion in Satin Black from walmart. Seems to be holding up well after 9 months.

Eh, I enjoy wrenching on my MJ. :chillin: The OEM lesser quality plastic crimped to aluminum one lasted 21 years... $64 shipped (and received within 3 days), hard to beat.

I got a front skid off a '97 XJ. I noticed in my uniframe, there are holes for the extra bolts to mount it, but they are not tapped... Anyone know the correct size? For the front of the skid, it looks like some short bolts, with nuts and lockwasher from the hardware store would work for securing it to the lower radiator support.

:drool: That is exactly what my truck would look like with that lift and bumper...I have the exact same grill setup on my MJ, blackout with chrome on top and bottom. Is that factory paint? It looks alot like my paintjob too. Very nice.

Come to think of it, I would not trust my wife to drive one either! :rotfl2: What a beast though... :drool:

I sprayed PB Blaster on my Leaf Spring bolts in anticipation of the arrival of my 3" lift springs from mvusse. :yes:

If you can pony up the dough, get her a CTS-V :brows:

My brother-in-law has an '03 CTS (first year). I just replaced the valve cover gaskets on it (PITA). He has had/has numerous problems with it, but he still loves it. The latest CTS is a great car. I would avoid buying and first year redesign of any manufacturer. For the most part, you are their guinea pig if you do.